http://robotcombatwiki.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=User&feedformat=atomRobotCombatWiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T05:13:45ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.35.1http://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Kits&diff=725Kits2023-02-12T17:08:18Z<p>User: /* Robot Combat Kits */ Added Smee kit</p>
<hr />
<div>==Robot Combat Kits==<br />
Many people don't have the fabrication or design experience to make a robot on their own so starting out with a kit is a great way to get into the sport. Be sure to check out your local event to see what weight-classes are supported. Make sure you know what is included in your kit. Most don't come with radios, batteries, or battery chargers.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Viper_Kit.png|thumb|FingerTech Viper Antweight]]<br />
<strong>150g Kits</strong><br><br />
The [https://shop.bristolbotbuilders.com/product/antkit/ <strong>Bristol Bot Builders</strong>] kit has the parts you'll need to get started but you'll need to make your own chassis.<br><br />
[https://nutsandbots.co.uk/product-category/robots/ <strong>Nuts and Bots 150g kits</strong>] come in three flavors, a wedge, a flipper and a grabber. These kits are underweight giving you room to add armor or to customize them.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/spark-150g-combat-robot-kit <strong>Spark!</strong>] kit is an undercutting disk spinner design intended for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
[https://turnabot.com/ <strong>Turnabot</strong>] has several 3D printed non-destructive robots with lifters and grabbers. The kits come as parts that you can put together yourself or for a little more money, fully assembled. [https://turnabot.com/?product=slipper <strong>Slipper</strong>], a Lifter. [https://turnabot.com/?product=squeezy <strong>Squeezy</strong>], a Horizontal Grabber. [https://turnabot.com/?product=santis <strong>Santis</strong>] a Vertical Lifter-Grabber. [https://turnabot.com/?product=slammer <strong>Slammer</strong>], a Vertical Lifter-Grabber.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<strong>1lb Kits</strong><br><br />
The [https://radrobotkits.com/rad-robot-store/p/baby-nautiloid-kit <strong>Baby Nautiloid</strong>] is a 2 wheel drive vertical spinner kit.<br> <br />
The [https://www.betzbotz.com/shop/p/betz-botz-ne26-1lb-antweight-combat-robot-kit <strong> Betz Botz NE2.7</strong>] is durable wedge robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-v2 <strong>FingerTech Viper</strong>] is a popular starting place. The Viper kit has [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-lifter-addon <strong>lifter</strong>] and both [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-v-spinner-addon <strong>vertical spinner</strong>] and [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-h-spinner-addon <strong>horizontal spinner</strong>] add-ons which make it a great expandable option for new builders. <br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/candy_wasp-kit-package <strong>Candy Wasp</strong>] antweight kit from [https://botkits.com BotKits.com] isn't as flexible as the viper kit but it is super durable and more likely to survive a competition.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-hellraiser <strong>Hellraiser</strong>] is a well built drum kit but is for more intermediate builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-lobotomy <strong>Lobotomy</strong>] kit has an effective undercutter but is for intermediate builders.<br> <br />
The [https://www.etsy.com/listing/753628264/combat-robot-battlebot-starter-kit <strong>Phantom Robot</strong>] antweight kit is an affordable choice.<br><br />
The [https://kitbots.com/product.sc?productId=26&categoryId=1 <strong>Saifu</strong>] drum bot kit is for more advanced builders and has won many events. This is a great choice for builders who want a kit robot with a powerful weapon.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-taserface <strong>Taserface</strong>] kit has a powerful vertical disk and is a good choice for intermediate builders who want a weapon bot.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/shock-1lb-combat-roobot-kit <strong>Shock!</strong>] kit is a powerful undercutting disk spinner design for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.etsy.com/listing/1153065612/4wd-antweight-combat-robot<strong>Synthwave</strong>] kit is a 4WD dual disk vertical spinner with a lot of style designed for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
<br><br />
<strong>3lb Kits</strong><br><br />
[[File:D2_Kit.jpg|thumb|D2 Beetle from BotKits]]<br />
[[File:Jolt Kit.jpg|thumb|Jolt! Kit from Absolute Chaos Robotics]]<br />
The [https://itgresa.com/product/beetleweight-chassis-kit-black-frost/ <strong>Black Frost</strong>] chassis kit is a great way to start off with a beetleweight robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/d2-combat-robot <strong>D2</strong>] kit is very durable and has won many events. Some builders don't like this kit because it is so competitive but it takes hours of practice to learn how to drive it well. <br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/mw1-combat-robot-chassis-kit <strong>MW1</strong>] kit is basically half a D2 kit and is designed for advanced builders who want to add a weapon onto the drivetrain.<br><br />
The [https://kitbots.com/product.sc?productId=19&categoryId=1 <strong>Weta</strong>] drum bot kit is a powerful beetleweight for more advanced builders who are interested in a weapon robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.endbots.com/products/vector-beetleweight-kit <strong>Vector</strong>] kit has a powerful horizontal spinner.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/jolt-3lb-combat-robot-kit <strong>Jolt!</strong>] kit is a powerful undercutting disk spinner design for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.golapse.xyz/product/smeetle <strong>Smeetleweight</strong>] kit is a wedge that looks to be difficult for opponents to avoid through high speed driving and an extremely wide design.<br><br />
The [https://www.owobotics.com/product/donkey-kit <strong>Team OgreKill "DONKEY"</strong>] kit is a solidly built wedge with a powerful brushless drive system.<br><br />
The [https://www.golapse.xyz/product/smeetle <strong> Smeetleweight </strong>] is a fun version of the popular bot Smeeeee!<br><br />
The [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-beetle-beater-bot <strong>FingerTech BeaterBar Kit</strong>] is an advanced kit containing all of the materials to make a beater bar bot, but leaving it to the builder to cut and shape the materials to make the frame.<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<strong>Bigger Robot Kits</strong><br><br />
[http://www.battlekits.com/ <strong>BattleKits</strong>] aren't fully functional kits but are drive platforms for larger robots ranging from sixty pound lightweights to two hundred fifty pound Battlebots. You'll need to fashion your own wedge or weapon to make these bots ready for combat.<br></div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Kits&diff=724Kits2023-02-12T17:06:17Z<p>User: /* Robot Combat Kits */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Robot Combat Kits==<br />
Many people don't have the fabrication or design experience to make a robot on their own so starting out with a kit is a great way to get into the sport. Be sure to check out your local event to see what weight-classes are supported. Make sure you know what is included in your kit. Most don't come with radios, batteries, or battery chargers.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Viper_Kit.png|thumb|FingerTech Viper Antweight]]<br />
<strong>150g Kits</strong><br><br />
The [https://shop.bristolbotbuilders.com/product/antkit/ <strong>Bristol Bot Builders</strong>] kit has the parts you'll need to get started but you'll need to make your own chassis.<br><br />
[https://nutsandbots.co.uk/product-category/robots/ <strong>Nuts and Bots 150g kits</strong>] come in three flavors, a wedge, a flipper and a grabber. These kits are underweight giving you room to add armor or to customize them.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/spark-150g-combat-robot-kit <strong>Spark!</strong>] kit is an undercutting disk spinner design intended for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
[https://turnabot.com/ <strong>Turnabot</strong>] has several 3D printed non-destructive robots with lifters and grabbers. The kits come as parts that you can put together yourself or for a little more money, fully assembled. [https://turnabot.com/?product=slipper <strong>Slipper</strong>], a Lifter. [https://turnabot.com/?product=squeezy <strong>Squeezy</strong>], a Horizontal Grabber. [https://turnabot.com/?product=santis <strong>Santis</strong>] a Vertical Lifter-Grabber. [https://turnabot.com/?product=slammer <strong>Slammer</strong>], a Vertical Lifter-Grabber.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<strong>1lb Kits</strong><br><br />
The [https://radrobotkits.com/rad-robot-store/p/baby-nautiloid-kit <strong>Baby Nautiloid</strong>] is a 2 wheel drive vertical spinner kit.<br> <br />
The [https://www.betzbotz.com/shop/p/betz-botz-ne26-1lb-antweight-combat-robot-kit <strong> Betz Botz NE2.7</strong>] is durable wedge robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-v2 <strong>FingerTech Viper</strong>] is a popular starting place. The Viper kit has [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-lifter-addon <strong>lifter</strong>] and both [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-v-spinner-addon <strong>vertical spinner</strong>] and [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-h-spinner-addon <strong>horizontal spinner</strong>] add-ons which make it a great expandable option for new builders. <br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/candy_wasp-kit-package <strong>Candy Wasp</strong>] antweight kit from [https://botkits.com BotKits.com] isn't as flexible as the viper kit but it is super durable and more likely to survive a competition.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-hellraiser <strong>Hellraiser</strong>] is a well built drum kit but is for more intermediate builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-lobotomy <strong>Lobotomy</strong>] kit has an effective undercutter but is for intermediate builders.<br> <br />
The [https://www.etsy.com/listing/753628264/combat-robot-battlebot-starter-kit <strong>Phantom Robot</strong>] antweight kit is an affordable choice.<br><br />
The [https://kitbots.com/product.sc?productId=26&categoryId=1 <strong>Saifu</strong>] drum bot kit is for more advanced builders and has won many events. This is a great choice for builders who want a kit robot with a powerful weapon.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-taserface <strong>Taserface</strong>] kit has a powerful vertical disk and is a good choice for intermediate builders who want a weapon bot.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/shock-1lb-combat-roobot-kit <strong>Shock!</strong>] kit is a powerful undercutting disk spinner design for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.etsy.com/listing/1153065612/4wd-antweight-combat-robot<strong>Synthwave</strong>] kit is a 4WD dual disk vertical spinner with a lot of style designed for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
<br><br />
<strong>3lb Kits</strong><br><br />
[[File:D2_Kit.jpg|thumb|D2 Beetle from BotKits]]<br />
[[File:Jolt Kit.jpg|thumb|Jolt! Kit from Absolute Chaos Robotics]]<br />
The [https://itgresa.com/product/beetleweight-chassis-kit-black-frost/ <strong>Black Frost</strong>] chassis kit is a great way to start off with a beetleweight robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/d2-combat-robot <strong>D2</strong>] kit is very durable and has won many events. Some builders don't like this kit because it is so competitive but it takes hours of practice to learn how to drive it well. <br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/mw1-combat-robot-chassis-kit <strong>MW1</strong>] kit is basically half a D2 kit and is designed for advanced builders who want to add a weapon onto the drivetrain.<br><br />
The [https://kitbots.com/product.sc?productId=19&categoryId=1 <strong>Weta</strong>] drum bot kit is a powerful beetleweight for more advanced builders who are interested in a weapon robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.endbots.com/products/vector-beetleweight-kit <strong>Vector</strong>] kit has a powerful horizontal spinner.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/jolt-3lb-combat-robot-kit <strong>Jolt!</strong>] kit is a powerful undercutting disk spinner design for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.golapse.xyz/product/smeetle <strong>Smeetleweight</strong>] kit is a wedge that looks to be difficult for opponents to avoid through high speed driving and an extremely wide design.<br><br />
The [https://www.owobotics.com/product/donkey-kit <strong>Team OgreKill "DONKEY"</strong>] kit is a solidly built wedge with a powerful brushless drive system.<br><br />
The [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-beetle-beater-bot <strong>FingerTech BeaterBar Kit</strong>] is an advanced kit containing all of the materials to make a beater bar bot, but leaving it to the builder to cut and shape the materials to make the frame.<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<strong>Bigger Robot Kits</strong><br><br />
[http://www.battlekits.com/ <strong>BattleKits</strong>] aren't fully functional kits but are drive platforms for larger robots ranging from sixty pound lightweights to two hundred fifty pound Battlebots. You'll need to fashion your own wedge or weapon to make these bots ready for combat.<br></div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Kits&diff=723Kits2023-02-12T17:03:41Z<p>User: /* Robot Combat Kits */ added phantom antweight</p>
<hr />
<div>==Robot Combat Kits==<br />
Many people don't have the fabrication or design experience to make a robot on their own so starting out with a kit is a great way to get into the sport. Be sure to check out your local event to see what weight-classes are supported. Make sure you know what is included in your kit. Most don't come with radios, batteries, or battery chargers.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Viper_Kit.png|thumb|FingerTech Viper Antweight]]<br />
<strong>150g Kits</strong><br><br />
The [https://shop.bristolbotbuilders.com/product/antkit/ <strong>Bristol Bot Builders</strong>] kit has the parts you'll need to get started but you'll need to make your own chassis.<br><br />
[https://nutsandbots.co.uk/product-category/robots/ <strong>Nuts and Bots 150g kits</strong>] come in three flavors, a wedge, a flipper and a grabber. These kits are underweight giving you room to add armor or to customize them.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/spark-150g-combat-robot-kit <strong>Spark!</strong>] kit is an undercutting disk spinner design intended for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
[https://turnabot.com/ <strong>Turnabot</strong>] has several 3D printed non-destructive robots with lifters and grabbers. The kits come as parts that you can put together yourself or for a little more money, fully assembled. [https://turnabot.com/?product=slipper <strong>Slipper</strong>], a Lifter. [https://turnabot.com/?product=squeezy <strong>Squeezy</strong>], a Horizontal Grabber. [https://turnabot.com/?product=santis <strong>Santis</strong>] a Vertical Lifter-Grabber. [https://turnabot.com/?product=slammer <strong>Slammer</strong>], a Vertical Lifter-Grabber.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<strong>1lb Kits</strong><br><br />
The [https://radrobotkits.com/rad-robot-store/p/baby-nautiloid-kit <strong>Baby Nautiloid</strong>] is a 2 wheel drive vertical spinner kit.<br> <br />
The [https://www.betzbotz.com/shop/p/betz-botz-ne26-1lb-antweight-combat-robot-kit <strong> Betz Botz NE2.7</strong>] is durable wedge robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-v2 <strong>FingerTech Viper</strong>] is a popular starting place. The Viper kit has [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-lifter-addon <strong>lifter</strong>] and both [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-v-spinner-addon <strong>vertical spinner</strong>] and [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-h-spinner-addon <strong>horizontal spinner</strong>] add-ons which make it a great expandable option for new builders. <br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/candy_wasp-kit-package <strong>Candy Wasp</strong>] antweight kit from [https://botkits.com BotKits.com] isn't as flexible as the viper kit but it is super durable and more likely to survive a competition.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-hellraiser <strong>Hellraiser</strong>] is a well built drum kit but is for more intermediate builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-lobotomy <strong>Lobotomy</strong>] kit has an effective undercutter but is for intermediate builders.<br> <br />
The [https://www.etsy.com/listing/753628264/combat-robot-battlebot-starter-kit Phantom Robot] antweight kit is an affordable choice.<br />
The [https://kitbots.com/product.sc?productId=26&categoryId=1 <strong>Saifu</strong>] drum bot kit is for more advanced builders and has won many events. This is a great choice for builders who want a kit robot with a powerful weapon.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-taserface <strong>Taserface</strong>] kit has a powerful vertical disk and is a good choice for intermediate builders who want a weapon bot.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/shock-1lb-combat-roobot-kit <strong>Shock!</strong>] kit is a powerful undercutting disk spinner design for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.etsy.com/listing/1153065612/4wd-antweight-combat-robot<strong>Synthwave</strong>] kit is a 4WD dual disk vertical spinner with a lot of style designed for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
<br><br />
<strong>3lb Kits</strong><br><br />
[[File:D2_Kit.jpg|thumb|D2 Beetle from BotKits]]<br />
[[File:Jolt Kit.jpg|thumb|Jolt! Kit from Absolute Chaos Robotics]]<br />
The [https://itgresa.com/product/beetleweight-chassis-kit-black-frost/ <strong>Black Frost</strong>] chassis kit is a great way to start off with a beetleweight robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/d2-combat-robot <strong>D2</strong>] kit is very durable and has won many events. Some builders don't like this kit because it is so competitive but it takes hours of practice to learn how to drive it well. <br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/mw1-combat-robot-chassis-kit <strong>MW1</strong>] kit is basically half a D2 kit and is designed for advanced builders who want to add a weapon onto the drivetrain.<br><br />
The [https://kitbots.com/product.sc?productId=19&categoryId=1 <strong>Weta</strong>] drum bot kit is a powerful beetleweight for more advanced builders who are interested in a weapon robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.endbots.com/products/vector-beetleweight-kit <strong>Vector</strong>] kit has a powerful horizontal spinner.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/jolt-3lb-combat-robot-kit <strong>Jolt!</strong>] kit is a powerful undercutting disk spinner design for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.golapse.xyz/product/smeetle <strong>Smeetleweight</strong>] kit is a wedge that looks to be difficult for opponents to avoid through high speed driving and an extremely wide design.<br><br />
The [https://www.owobotics.com/product/donkey-kit <strong>Team OgreKill "DONKEY"</strong>] kit is a solidly built wedge with a powerful brushless drive system.<br><br />
The [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-beetle-beater-bot <strong>FingerTech BeaterBar Kit</strong>] is an advanced kit containing all of the materials to make a beater bar bot, but leaving it to the builder to cut and shape the materials to make the frame.<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<strong>Bigger Robot Kits</strong><br><br />
[http://www.battlekits.com/ <strong>BattleKits</strong>] aren't fully functional kits but are drive platforms for larger robots ranging from sixty pound lightweights to two hundred fifty pound Battlebots. You'll need to fashion your own wedge or weapon to make these bots ready for combat.<br></div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=GettingStarted&diff=722GettingStarted2023-02-12T16:59:08Z<p>User: /* Getting Started Guides */ Test box guide</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:WAR_Arena_Seattle_Center.jpg|thumb|Robot Event at the Seattle Center]]<br />
<br />
If you are ready to get started, use this guide. While the creative possibilities in robot combat are endless, we'll start with some simple options for everyone, even the absolute beginner.<br />
<br />
=How to get started in combat robotics=<br />
<br />
===Go to events===<br />
Many builders get "hooked" by watching robots on TV or on YouTube. While you can learn from watching matches, it can be difficult to know how to get started from these sources. You might be able to find and connect with local robot builders using Discord or Facebook, but the first thing that every new builder should do is to go to '''[[Events]]''' and see how things are done in the real world. A typical small event is one day long, with check-in and preliminaries in the morning, and competition until every match has been completed. Some will even have restaurants or food trucks available, but in others you will need to prepare for your own needs.<br />
<br />
Even if you don't bring a robot, you should ask the event organizer if it is OK to walk around the pits and talk to the builders. Watching them prepare for their matches and repair robot damage will help you figure out what you'll need for your first event. While builders are generally friendly and helpful, '''do remember to be courteous''', as some of them will be preparing for a battle with very limited time, and often will not be able to talk to you while they work.<br />
<br />
===Learn the rules===<br />
Each robot combat event is governed by '''[[Rules|rules]]''' that specify such things as bot size and weight, allowable weapons, and safe behavior for both you and your bot. Learn what you are allowed to bring, how the event is scored, and how matches are structured. Listen in during the Driver's Meeting before the first match for a summary of requirements for participants.<br />
<br />
Before you compete, read the event rules carefully; even if an event adopts SPARC rules or another standard, local changes are not uncommon. Check with the event organizers if you have any doubts about whether your bot will be accepted.<br />
<br />
===Borrow a robot===<br />
If you aren't very familiar or comfortable with building things, and you want to experience robot combat without spending much money, ask about "loaner bots" at your local event. Some enthusiasts have a "stable" of several robots used for small gatherings, lectures and demonstrations. Some even rent their bots out for parties! You might be able to compete for just the cost of the entry fee. These bots will usually be small nondestructive types that are fairly durable.<br />
<br />
After a little experience driving a bot, think about owning your own. If it sounds interesting, read on!<br />
<br />
=Building your own robot=<br />
[[File:Tornado Strong 1200.jpg|thumb|right|150 gram combat robot]]<br />
<br />
If you have a great idea for a design, and the skills to make it happen, follow that dream! Most people, however, will want to start with a robot that has already been designed. There are two ways to do this. One is to buy a factory-made kit, and the other is to follow an existing design.<br />
<br />
Either way, in the process of assembly, you'll learn everything that goes into building your own bot. As you become familiar with the pieces, you'll not only begin to understand how it works, you will also better understand the ways it will fail. When you walk away from a match with a broken bot, you either need to have a plan to fix it, or you will need to call on the help of the other teams.<br />
<br />
===Pick a weight class===<br />
Once you've been to an event and decided to build a robot, you need to '''[[RobotClasses|pick a weight class]]''' for your first build. Take into consideration which weight classes are supported in the event(s) you plan to attend, your budget, and your building skills. Most builders start with "insect-weight" bots (the smallest and lightest classes) because they are the cheapest to build and maintain. Generally things get more expensive as they get bigger; the larger the weight class, the more destructive your opponents' bots will be, and the higher the likelihood that your bot will be damaged and require repair. Also, the building / fabrication requirements are very different for a 1-pound robot vs. a 30-pound robot. Start with something that you think you'll be able to complete, and if you have fun then you might go ahead and build a second and third robot.<br />
<br />
===Building from a kit===<br />
If you've decided to go with a '''[[Kits|factory-made kit]]''', you'll assemble a robot using instructions. Many will include a simple radio for control; others require you to buy one. Read the '''[[Radios]]''' section for suggestions. A few simple hand '''[[Tools For Beginners|tools]]''' are all you will need to get started.<br />
<br />
Ask your local event organizer if there are any robot-building classes available. You might be able to join a small group where everyone builds their own bot from a kit of parts.<br />
<br />
You should buy replacement parts along with your kit. For example, many kits have exposed wheels, and tires and wheels frequently are damaged by aggressive opponents.<br />
<br />
===Building following a design===<br />
If you're feeling more adventuresome, you can construct a bot according to plans you can get online. In almost every case these plans are free, but it can be tricky to judge which ones are worthwhile. Your local builders will have recommendations for you. See the '''[[3D Printing|3D printer]]''' page for a long list of available designs. Access to a 3D printer is required to make some of the parts for nearly every available design.<br />
<br />
A beginner's best bet is often to build in the 150 gram '''[[RobotClasses|weight class]]''', since these bots are small, inexpensive, and easy to repair when damaged. Local events almost always have a 150g competition. <br />
<br />
As you compete, you might come up with changes to the design you're using, like better armor or improved weapons. Experiment and learn, and don't be afraid to try wild ideas or to use scrap materials -- just stay within the weight limit and the rules. If you can do 3D design on a computer, you can also modify the plastic components of your kit.<br />
<br />
Side note about parts: Robot combat is an unusual hobby that is not well served by most hobby shops. Your local hobby or radio-control supply house probably specializes in trucks and racing, flying and sailing models, or multirotor aircraft. Even if they have a great selection of parts, they won't know what equipment is suitable or allowed by the rules, and they may be reluctant to sell to someone who intends to risk damage of their products. As a result, specialty '''[[Suppliers|robot combat suppliers]]''' have been created to meet the needs of people engaged in the sport.<br />
<br />
=Designing your own robot=<br />
If you want to go your own way, building robots of your own design is the pinnacle of competition and success. Whether you carefully engineer a plastic chassis for '''[[3D Printing|3D printing]]''', or rummage in the junkyard for bits and bobs, the goals are yours to set.<br />
<br />
Building and competing with your robot is supposed to be fun. Know yourself and pick a design that you will enjoy, but be sure to do something within your capabilities. Building a pneumatic flipper with no prior experience isn't a good choice for your first bot. Many in the hobby recommend starting with a simple pusher or lifter design, because more complicated designs require some knowledge of engineering, mechanical design, and materials science.<br />
<br />
===Picking components===<br />
Some people spend a ton of time picking motors and batteries and all the things that go into your first robot. It pays to take some time and make informed choices, but even advanced builders iterate and discover new components to improve their bots. Don't let 'perfect be the enemy of good'. Pick things that work, then iterate and make improvements over time as you go. If you are new to fabricating things take a look at the '''[[NameThatPart]]''' page to learn about different materials and some of the basic things you'll need to create your robot.<br />
<br />
===Build and test your robot===<br />
Before you start your build you want to make sure you have the '''[[Tools_For_Beginners|right tools]]'''. Nothing is more frustrating than setting aside time to build your robot only to find that you are missing a tool needed to build it.<br />
<br />
Safety is always important when building and testing your bot. If you have active weapons, begin with the weapons completely disconnected or removed. Do a "wheels-up" test of your drive system to make sure it is working as expected. Ensure that the failsafe is working correctly using just the driving motors first. If everything works, take the bot for a test drive before enabling the weapon, if you can do it safely.<br />
<br />
Once the driving motors are tested, you can install and connect the weapon. '''Weapons tests should be performed using a reinforced test box.''' Some builders will set up a camera to observe and record the bot while they and others remain safely out of the way. Get into the habit of performing tests in safe environments, as this is frequently a requirement in competitions.<br />
<br />
===Optimizing your robot===<br />
Beginning builders may not be aware of all the ways that the transmitter, receiver, and motor controls can be customized. After you've had some "stick time" driving the bot you may find it isn't as easy to control as you expected. Here are a few tips:<br />
<br />
*If you can't predict where the bot will steer, you may be having radio issues, but often it's poor traction; try a different driving surface.<br />
*If it steers to one side, you might have one motor faster than another; you can set your radio or ESC to limit the speed on one motor or boost another.<br />
*If your ESC offers braking, try it; you might find it easier to precisely position your bot before an attack.<br />
*You might be able to gain an edge when using your weapon. Setting endpoints and/or rate curves for servo motion on a flipper, for example, could position it for faster response to your stick movements.<br />
<br />
=Getting Started Guides=<br />
*Robert Cowan's [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1tXSzwzEM2jNGjZ2KYn00ldeHvEru0y3_zlNkVw-F9iI/edit?usp=sharing Combat Robot Resource Guide] is packed with useful links and tips.<br />
*Peter Garnache's [https://drive.google.com/file/d/12gA-8xjnxF9-k8PxmurhnEiuI-fv-Lz7/view Combat Robotics Design Handbook] is a great resource for bot builders looking to learn more about bot design, manufacturing techniques, or even just the classifications and naming conventions used in combat robotics.<br />
*[https://www.wikihow.com/Build-an-Antweight-Combat-Robot Build an Antweight] is a great visual guide to the process.<br />
*[https://combatrobotics.co.nz/build-guides/general/ New Zealand guide to getting started] connects "kiwis" with the local scene.<br />
*[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1u2wszjPiJOVeC017CCnXBpdU2_T24qVbukyguQFecx4/edit# The Box is Locked] helps you prepare for your first competition.<br />
*[https://www.reddit.com/r/battlebots/comments/3euojn/what_now_getting_started_in_robot_combat/ Reddit on getting started] has more great links.<br />
*[https://www.sparkfun.com/news/2763 SparkFun] had a rundown article by Cowan with great photos.<br />
*The most comprehensive is the [http://meggi.usuarios.rdc.puc-rio.br/docs/riobotz_combot_tutorial.pdf RioBots] tutorial, a full sized book packed with engineering know-how and real life experience. Beginners with small bots don't need to read this to succeed, but at least skim it to learn the basics and gain inspiration.<br />
*[http://repeat-robotics.com/handbook/ Repeat Robotics Beetle Guide] has a more focus approach to the popular Beetle weight class.<br />
*[https://www.teamwitchdoctor.com/build-a-robot The Witch Doctor Junior Video Series] is an easy to understand resource for new builders.<br />
*[https://youtu.be/-fyxuHzDUaY Just 'Cuz Robotics] provides a guide on what to expect at your first event.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lw5YuJKg8vA How to build a test box] will keep you safe! A guide from team Scorpios.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvNRtRuOALw Great YouTube Tutorial.] There is a lot of incomplete or inaccurate material on YouTube but this video does a great job covering the basics.<br />
<br />
=Preparing yourself=<br />
After the bot is built, it must be operated. Combat robots need drivers to succeed.<br />
<br />
Two keys to success in the bot arena are '''driving skills''' and '''strategy'''. First, you must become a master of your own bot. Find or make a safe place to test your bot without chance of injury to yourself, family, pets, and others, and get plenty of practice driving it as often as possible. Learn how long the battery will hold out before it must be charged. If possible, adjust your controls so that the bot moves and performs as your hands expect it to; for example, adjust the bot or the radio so that when the stick is pushed straight forward, the bot will go straight ahead, and not veer to one side. All of the bot's motions should be predictable and reliable. Then you can practice your moves, just as with any sport, even if all you have is a wood-block dummy to push around.<br />
<br />
You will need to effectively engage your rivals in the battle arena, identifying their strengths and seeking out and exploiting weaknesses in their bot designs and in their own driving. You might be able to watch videos of your opponent bots in prior matches to learn about their behavior. However, only in real combat will you learn all the instincts needed to adapt to ever-changing situations. Robot combat is a true sport, and its techniques can be learned and studied not only by watching the videos, but by going to events and fighting.<br />
<br />
Finally, steel yourself for failure. Parts will fail, things will break, batteries run out, circuits overheat, gears jam, connectors come unplugged, and mighty opponents may cut your bot to ribbons. "The general rule of thumb in any robot competition regardless of weight class is not to put a bot in the arena you aren't comfortable having destroyed."[https://old.reddit.com/r/battlebots/comments/8ogjpe/choosing_a_controller_rather_costprohibitive/e046ct1/] If defeat comes, congratulate your opponent, return to the pits, rebuild, and return to the arena and triumph.</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=GettingStarted&diff=721GettingStarted2023-02-12T16:58:00Z<p>User: /* Getting Started Guides */ added Just Cuz' guide</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:WAR_Arena_Seattle_Center.jpg|thumb|Robot Event at the Seattle Center]]<br />
<br />
If you are ready to get started, use this guide. While the creative possibilities in robot combat are endless, we'll start with some simple options for everyone, even the absolute beginner.<br />
<br />
=How to get started in combat robotics=<br />
<br />
===Go to events===<br />
Many builders get "hooked" by watching robots on TV or on YouTube. While you can learn from watching matches, it can be difficult to know how to get started from these sources. You might be able to find and connect with local robot builders using Discord or Facebook, but the first thing that every new builder should do is to go to '''[[Events]]''' and see how things are done in the real world. A typical small event is one day long, with check-in and preliminaries in the morning, and competition until every match has been completed. Some will even have restaurants or food trucks available, but in others you will need to prepare for your own needs.<br />
<br />
Even if you don't bring a robot, you should ask the event organizer if it is OK to walk around the pits and talk to the builders. Watching them prepare for their matches and repair robot damage will help you figure out what you'll need for your first event. While builders are generally friendly and helpful, '''do remember to be courteous''', as some of them will be preparing for a battle with very limited time, and often will not be able to talk to you while they work.<br />
<br />
===Learn the rules===<br />
Each robot combat event is governed by '''[[Rules|rules]]''' that specify such things as bot size and weight, allowable weapons, and safe behavior for both you and your bot. Learn what you are allowed to bring, how the event is scored, and how matches are structured. Listen in during the Driver's Meeting before the first match for a summary of requirements for participants.<br />
<br />
Before you compete, read the event rules carefully; even if an event adopts SPARC rules or another standard, local changes are not uncommon. Check with the event organizers if you have any doubts about whether your bot will be accepted.<br />
<br />
===Borrow a robot===<br />
If you aren't very familiar or comfortable with building things, and you want to experience robot combat without spending much money, ask about "loaner bots" at your local event. Some enthusiasts have a "stable" of several robots used for small gatherings, lectures and demonstrations. Some even rent their bots out for parties! You might be able to compete for just the cost of the entry fee. These bots will usually be small nondestructive types that are fairly durable.<br />
<br />
After a little experience driving a bot, think about owning your own. If it sounds interesting, read on!<br />
<br />
=Building your own robot=<br />
[[File:Tornado Strong 1200.jpg|thumb|right|150 gram combat robot]]<br />
<br />
If you have a great idea for a design, and the skills to make it happen, follow that dream! Most people, however, will want to start with a robot that has already been designed. There are two ways to do this. One is to buy a factory-made kit, and the other is to follow an existing design.<br />
<br />
Either way, in the process of assembly, you'll learn everything that goes into building your own bot. As you become familiar with the pieces, you'll not only begin to understand how it works, you will also better understand the ways it will fail. When you walk away from a match with a broken bot, you either need to have a plan to fix it, or you will need to call on the help of the other teams.<br />
<br />
===Pick a weight class===<br />
Once you've been to an event and decided to build a robot, you need to '''[[RobotClasses|pick a weight class]]''' for your first build. Take into consideration which weight classes are supported in the event(s) you plan to attend, your budget, and your building skills. Most builders start with "insect-weight" bots (the smallest and lightest classes) because they are the cheapest to build and maintain. Generally things get more expensive as they get bigger; the larger the weight class, the more destructive your opponents' bots will be, and the higher the likelihood that your bot will be damaged and require repair. Also, the building / fabrication requirements are very different for a 1-pound robot vs. a 30-pound robot. Start with something that you think you'll be able to complete, and if you have fun then you might go ahead and build a second and third robot.<br />
<br />
===Building from a kit===<br />
If you've decided to go with a '''[[Kits|factory-made kit]]''', you'll assemble a robot using instructions. Many will include a simple radio for control; others require you to buy one. Read the '''[[Radios]]''' section for suggestions. A few simple hand '''[[Tools For Beginners|tools]]''' are all you will need to get started.<br />
<br />
Ask your local event organizer if there are any robot-building classes available. You might be able to join a small group where everyone builds their own bot from a kit of parts.<br />
<br />
You should buy replacement parts along with your kit. For example, many kits have exposed wheels, and tires and wheels frequently are damaged by aggressive opponents.<br />
<br />
===Building following a design===<br />
If you're feeling more adventuresome, you can construct a bot according to plans you can get online. In almost every case these plans are free, but it can be tricky to judge which ones are worthwhile. Your local builders will have recommendations for you. See the '''[[3D Printing|3D printer]]''' page for a long list of available designs. Access to a 3D printer is required to make some of the parts for nearly every available design.<br />
<br />
A beginner's best bet is often to build in the 150 gram '''[[RobotClasses|weight class]]''', since these bots are small, inexpensive, and easy to repair when damaged. Local events almost always have a 150g competition. <br />
<br />
As you compete, you might come up with changes to the design you're using, like better armor or improved weapons. Experiment and learn, and don't be afraid to try wild ideas or to use scrap materials -- just stay within the weight limit and the rules. If you can do 3D design on a computer, you can also modify the plastic components of your kit.<br />
<br />
Side note about parts: Robot combat is an unusual hobby that is not well served by most hobby shops. Your local hobby or radio-control supply house probably specializes in trucks and racing, flying and sailing models, or multirotor aircraft. Even if they have a great selection of parts, they won't know what equipment is suitable or allowed by the rules, and they may be reluctant to sell to someone who intends to risk damage of their products. As a result, specialty '''[[Suppliers|robot combat suppliers]]''' have been created to meet the needs of people engaged in the sport.<br />
<br />
=Designing your own robot=<br />
If you want to go your own way, building robots of your own design is the pinnacle of competition and success. Whether you carefully engineer a plastic chassis for '''[[3D Printing|3D printing]]''', or rummage in the junkyard for bits and bobs, the goals are yours to set.<br />
<br />
Building and competing with your robot is supposed to be fun. Know yourself and pick a design that you will enjoy, but be sure to do something within your capabilities. Building a pneumatic flipper with no prior experience isn't a good choice for your first bot. Many in the hobby recommend starting with a simple pusher or lifter design, because more complicated designs require some knowledge of engineering, mechanical design, and materials science.<br />
<br />
===Picking components===<br />
Some people spend a ton of time picking motors and batteries and all the things that go into your first robot. It pays to take some time and make informed choices, but even advanced builders iterate and discover new components to improve their bots. Don't let 'perfect be the enemy of good'. Pick things that work, then iterate and make improvements over time as you go. If you are new to fabricating things take a look at the '''[[NameThatPart]]''' page to learn about different materials and some of the basic things you'll need to create your robot.<br />
<br />
===Build and test your robot===<br />
Before you start your build you want to make sure you have the '''[[Tools_For_Beginners|right tools]]'''. Nothing is more frustrating than setting aside time to build your robot only to find that you are missing a tool needed to build it.<br />
<br />
Safety is always important when building and testing your bot. If you have active weapons, begin with the weapons completely disconnected or removed. Do a "wheels-up" test of your drive system to make sure it is working as expected. Ensure that the failsafe is working correctly using just the driving motors first. If everything works, take the bot for a test drive before enabling the weapon, if you can do it safely.<br />
<br />
Once the driving motors are tested, you can install and connect the weapon. '''Weapons tests should be performed using a reinforced test box.''' Some builders will set up a camera to observe and record the bot while they and others remain safely out of the way. Get into the habit of performing tests in safe environments, as this is frequently a requirement in competitions.<br />
<br />
===Optimizing your robot===<br />
Beginning builders may not be aware of all the ways that the transmitter, receiver, and motor controls can be customized. After you've had some "stick time" driving the bot you may find it isn't as easy to control as you expected. Here are a few tips:<br />
<br />
*If you can't predict where the bot will steer, you may be having radio issues, but often it's poor traction; try a different driving surface.<br />
*If it steers to one side, you might have one motor faster than another; you can set your radio or ESC to limit the speed on one motor or boost another.<br />
*If your ESC offers braking, try it; you might find it easier to precisely position your bot before an attack.<br />
*You might be able to gain an edge when using your weapon. Setting endpoints and/or rate curves for servo motion on a flipper, for example, could position it for faster response to your stick movements.<br />
<br />
=Getting Started Guides=<br />
*Robert Cowan's [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1tXSzwzEM2jNGjZ2KYn00ldeHvEru0y3_zlNkVw-F9iI/edit?usp=sharing Combat Robot Resource Guide] is packed with useful links and tips.<br />
*Peter Garnache's [https://drive.google.com/file/d/12gA-8xjnxF9-k8PxmurhnEiuI-fv-Lz7/view Combat Robotics Design Handbook] is a great resource for bot builders looking to learn more about bot design, manufacturing techniques, or even just the classifications and naming conventions used in combat robotics.<br />
*[https://www.wikihow.com/Build-an-Antweight-Combat-Robot Build an Antweight] is a great visual guide to the process.<br />
*[https://combatrobotics.co.nz/build-guides/general/ New Zealand guide to getting started] connects "kiwis" with the local scene.<br />
*[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1u2wszjPiJOVeC017CCnXBpdU2_T24qVbukyguQFecx4/edit# The Box is Locked] helps you prepare for your first competition.<br />
*[https://www.reddit.com/r/battlebots/comments/3euojn/what_now_getting_started_in_robot_combat/ Reddit on getting started] has more great links.<br />
*[https://www.sparkfun.com/news/2763 SparkFun] had a rundown article by Cowan with great photos.<br />
*The most comprehensive is the [http://meggi.usuarios.rdc.puc-rio.br/docs/riobotz_combot_tutorial.pdf RioBots] tutorial, a full sized book packed with engineering know-how and real life experience. Beginners with small bots don't need to read this to succeed, but at least skim it to learn the basics and gain inspiration.<br />
*[http://repeat-robotics.com/handbook/ Repeat Robotics Beetle Guide] has a more focus approach to the popular Beetle weight class.<br />
*[https://www.teamwitchdoctor.com/build-a-robot The Witch Doctor Junior Video Series] is an easy to understand resource for new builders.<br />
*[https://youtu.be/-fyxuHzDUaY Just 'Cuz Robotics] provides a guide on what to expect at your first event.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvNRtRuOALw Great YouTube Tutorial.] There is a lot of incomplete or inaccurate material on YouTube but this video does a great job covering the basics.<br />
<br />
=Preparing yourself=<br />
After the bot is built, it must be operated. Combat robots need drivers to succeed.<br />
<br />
Two keys to success in the bot arena are '''driving skills''' and '''strategy'''. First, you must become a master of your own bot. Find or make a safe place to test your bot without chance of injury to yourself, family, pets, and others, and get plenty of practice driving it as often as possible. Learn how long the battery will hold out before it must be charged. If possible, adjust your controls so that the bot moves and performs as your hands expect it to; for example, adjust the bot or the radio so that when the stick is pushed straight forward, the bot will go straight ahead, and not veer to one side. All of the bot's motions should be predictable and reliable. Then you can practice your moves, just as with any sport, even if all you have is a wood-block dummy to push around.<br />
<br />
You will need to effectively engage your rivals in the battle arena, identifying their strengths and seeking out and exploiting weaknesses in their bot designs and in their own driving. You might be able to watch videos of your opponent bots in prior matches to learn about their behavior. However, only in real combat will you learn all the instincts needed to adapt to ever-changing situations. Robot combat is a true sport, and its techniques can be learned and studied not only by watching the videos, but by going to events and fighting.<br />
<br />
Finally, steel yourself for failure. Parts will fail, things will break, batteries run out, circuits overheat, gears jam, connectors come unplugged, and mighty opponents may cut your bot to ribbons. "The general rule of thumb in any robot competition regardless of weight class is not to put a bot in the arena you aren't comfortable having destroyed."[https://old.reddit.com/r/battlebots/comments/8ogjpe/choosing_a_controller_rather_costprohibitive/e046ct1/] If defeat comes, congratulate your opponent, return to the pits, rebuild, and return to the arena and triumph.</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=GettingStarted&diff=720GettingStarted2023-02-12T16:56:35Z<p>User: /* Getting Started Guides */ Added Witch Doctor Guide</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:WAR_Arena_Seattle_Center.jpg|thumb|Robot Event at the Seattle Center]]<br />
<br />
If you are ready to get started, use this guide. While the creative possibilities in robot combat are endless, we'll start with some simple options for everyone, even the absolute beginner.<br />
<br />
=How to get started in combat robotics=<br />
<br />
===Go to events===<br />
Many builders get "hooked" by watching robots on TV or on YouTube. While you can learn from watching matches, it can be difficult to know how to get started from these sources. You might be able to find and connect with local robot builders using Discord or Facebook, but the first thing that every new builder should do is to go to '''[[Events]]''' and see how things are done in the real world. A typical small event is one day long, with check-in and preliminaries in the morning, and competition until every match has been completed. Some will even have restaurants or food trucks available, but in others you will need to prepare for your own needs.<br />
<br />
Even if you don't bring a robot, you should ask the event organizer if it is OK to walk around the pits and talk to the builders. Watching them prepare for their matches and repair robot damage will help you figure out what you'll need for your first event. While builders are generally friendly and helpful, '''do remember to be courteous''', as some of them will be preparing for a battle with very limited time, and often will not be able to talk to you while they work.<br />
<br />
===Learn the rules===<br />
Each robot combat event is governed by '''[[Rules|rules]]''' that specify such things as bot size and weight, allowable weapons, and safe behavior for both you and your bot. Learn what you are allowed to bring, how the event is scored, and how matches are structured. Listen in during the Driver's Meeting before the first match for a summary of requirements for participants.<br />
<br />
Before you compete, read the event rules carefully; even if an event adopts SPARC rules or another standard, local changes are not uncommon. Check with the event organizers if you have any doubts about whether your bot will be accepted.<br />
<br />
===Borrow a robot===<br />
If you aren't very familiar or comfortable with building things, and you want to experience robot combat without spending much money, ask about "loaner bots" at your local event. Some enthusiasts have a "stable" of several robots used for small gatherings, lectures and demonstrations. Some even rent their bots out for parties! You might be able to compete for just the cost of the entry fee. These bots will usually be small nondestructive types that are fairly durable.<br />
<br />
After a little experience driving a bot, think about owning your own. If it sounds interesting, read on!<br />
<br />
=Building your own robot=<br />
[[File:Tornado Strong 1200.jpg|thumb|right|150 gram combat robot]]<br />
<br />
If you have a great idea for a design, and the skills to make it happen, follow that dream! Most people, however, will want to start with a robot that has already been designed. There are two ways to do this. One is to buy a factory-made kit, and the other is to follow an existing design.<br />
<br />
Either way, in the process of assembly, you'll learn everything that goes into building your own bot. As you become familiar with the pieces, you'll not only begin to understand how it works, you will also better understand the ways it will fail. When you walk away from a match with a broken bot, you either need to have a plan to fix it, or you will need to call on the help of the other teams.<br />
<br />
===Pick a weight class===<br />
Once you've been to an event and decided to build a robot, you need to '''[[RobotClasses|pick a weight class]]''' for your first build. Take into consideration which weight classes are supported in the event(s) you plan to attend, your budget, and your building skills. Most builders start with "insect-weight" bots (the smallest and lightest classes) because they are the cheapest to build and maintain. Generally things get more expensive as they get bigger; the larger the weight class, the more destructive your opponents' bots will be, and the higher the likelihood that your bot will be damaged and require repair. Also, the building / fabrication requirements are very different for a 1-pound robot vs. a 30-pound robot. Start with something that you think you'll be able to complete, and if you have fun then you might go ahead and build a second and third robot.<br />
<br />
===Building from a kit===<br />
If you've decided to go with a '''[[Kits|factory-made kit]]''', you'll assemble a robot using instructions. Many will include a simple radio for control; others require you to buy one. Read the '''[[Radios]]''' section for suggestions. A few simple hand '''[[Tools For Beginners|tools]]''' are all you will need to get started.<br />
<br />
Ask your local event organizer if there are any robot-building classes available. You might be able to join a small group where everyone builds their own bot from a kit of parts.<br />
<br />
You should buy replacement parts along with your kit. For example, many kits have exposed wheels, and tires and wheels frequently are damaged by aggressive opponents.<br />
<br />
===Building following a design===<br />
If you're feeling more adventuresome, you can construct a bot according to plans you can get online. In almost every case these plans are free, but it can be tricky to judge which ones are worthwhile. Your local builders will have recommendations for you. See the '''[[3D Printing|3D printer]]''' page for a long list of available designs. Access to a 3D printer is required to make some of the parts for nearly every available design.<br />
<br />
A beginner's best bet is often to build in the 150 gram '''[[RobotClasses|weight class]]''', since these bots are small, inexpensive, and easy to repair when damaged. Local events almost always have a 150g competition. <br />
<br />
As you compete, you might come up with changes to the design you're using, like better armor or improved weapons. Experiment and learn, and don't be afraid to try wild ideas or to use scrap materials -- just stay within the weight limit and the rules. If you can do 3D design on a computer, you can also modify the plastic components of your kit.<br />
<br />
Side note about parts: Robot combat is an unusual hobby that is not well served by most hobby shops. Your local hobby or radio-control supply house probably specializes in trucks and racing, flying and sailing models, or multirotor aircraft. Even if they have a great selection of parts, they won't know what equipment is suitable or allowed by the rules, and they may be reluctant to sell to someone who intends to risk damage of their products. As a result, specialty '''[[Suppliers|robot combat suppliers]]''' have been created to meet the needs of people engaged in the sport.<br />
<br />
=Designing your own robot=<br />
If you want to go your own way, building robots of your own design is the pinnacle of competition and success. Whether you carefully engineer a plastic chassis for '''[[3D Printing|3D printing]]''', or rummage in the junkyard for bits and bobs, the goals are yours to set.<br />
<br />
Building and competing with your robot is supposed to be fun. Know yourself and pick a design that you will enjoy, but be sure to do something within your capabilities. Building a pneumatic flipper with no prior experience isn't a good choice for your first bot. Many in the hobby recommend starting with a simple pusher or lifter design, because more complicated designs require some knowledge of engineering, mechanical design, and materials science.<br />
<br />
===Picking components===<br />
Some people spend a ton of time picking motors and batteries and all the things that go into your first robot. It pays to take some time and make informed choices, but even advanced builders iterate and discover new components to improve their bots. Don't let 'perfect be the enemy of good'. Pick things that work, then iterate and make improvements over time as you go. If you are new to fabricating things take a look at the '''[[NameThatPart]]''' page to learn about different materials and some of the basic things you'll need to create your robot.<br />
<br />
===Build and test your robot===<br />
Before you start your build you want to make sure you have the '''[[Tools_For_Beginners|right tools]]'''. Nothing is more frustrating than setting aside time to build your robot only to find that you are missing a tool needed to build it.<br />
<br />
Safety is always important when building and testing your bot. If you have active weapons, begin with the weapons completely disconnected or removed. Do a "wheels-up" test of your drive system to make sure it is working as expected. Ensure that the failsafe is working correctly using just the driving motors first. If everything works, take the bot for a test drive before enabling the weapon, if you can do it safely.<br />
<br />
Once the driving motors are tested, you can install and connect the weapon. '''Weapons tests should be performed using a reinforced test box.''' Some builders will set up a camera to observe and record the bot while they and others remain safely out of the way. Get into the habit of performing tests in safe environments, as this is frequently a requirement in competitions.<br />
<br />
===Optimizing your robot===<br />
Beginning builders may not be aware of all the ways that the transmitter, receiver, and motor controls can be customized. After you've had some "stick time" driving the bot you may find it isn't as easy to control as you expected. Here are a few tips:<br />
<br />
*If you can't predict where the bot will steer, you may be having radio issues, but often it's poor traction; try a different driving surface.<br />
*If it steers to one side, you might have one motor faster than another; you can set your radio or ESC to limit the speed on one motor or boost another.<br />
*If your ESC offers braking, try it; you might find it easier to precisely position your bot before an attack.<br />
*You might be able to gain an edge when using your weapon. Setting endpoints and/or rate curves for servo motion on a flipper, for example, could position it for faster response to your stick movements.<br />
<br />
=Getting Started Guides=<br />
*Robert Cowan's [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1tXSzwzEM2jNGjZ2KYn00ldeHvEru0y3_zlNkVw-F9iI/edit?usp=sharing Combat Robot Resource Guide] is packed with useful links and tips.<br />
*Peter Garnache's [https://drive.google.com/file/d/12gA-8xjnxF9-k8PxmurhnEiuI-fv-Lz7/view Combat Robotics Design Handbook] is a great resource for bot builders looking to learn more about bot design, manufacturing techniques, or even just the classifications and naming conventions used in combat robotics.<br />
*[https://www.wikihow.com/Build-an-Antweight-Combat-Robot Build an Antweight] is a great visual guide to the process.<br />
*[https://combatrobotics.co.nz/build-guides/general/ New Zealand guide to getting started] connects "kiwis" with the local scene.<br />
*[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1u2wszjPiJOVeC017CCnXBpdU2_T24qVbukyguQFecx4/edit# The Box is Locked] helps you prepare for your first competition.<br />
*[https://www.reddit.com/r/battlebots/comments/3euojn/what_now_getting_started_in_robot_combat/ Reddit on getting started] has more great links.<br />
*[https://www.sparkfun.com/news/2763 SparkFun] had a rundown article by Cowan with great photos.<br />
*The most comprehensive is the [http://meggi.usuarios.rdc.puc-rio.br/docs/riobotz_combot_tutorial.pdf RioBots] tutorial, a full sized book packed with engineering know-how and real life experience. Beginners with small bots don't need to read this to succeed, but at least skim it to learn the basics and gain inspiration.<br />
*[http://repeat-robotics.com/handbook/ Repeat Robotics Beetle Guide] has a more focus approach to the popular Beetle weight class.<br />
*[https://www.teamwitchdoctor.com/build-a-robot The Witch Doctor Junior Video Series] is an easy to understand resource for new builders.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvNRtRuOALw Great YouTube Tutorial.] There is a lot of incomplete or inaccurate material on YouTube but this video does a great job covering the basics.<br />
<br />
=Preparing yourself=<br />
After the bot is built, it must be operated. Combat robots need drivers to succeed.<br />
<br />
Two keys to success in the bot arena are '''driving skills''' and '''strategy'''. First, you must become a master of your own bot. Find or make a safe place to test your bot without chance of injury to yourself, family, pets, and others, and get plenty of practice driving it as often as possible. Learn how long the battery will hold out before it must be charged. If possible, adjust your controls so that the bot moves and performs as your hands expect it to; for example, adjust the bot or the radio so that when the stick is pushed straight forward, the bot will go straight ahead, and not veer to one side. All of the bot's motions should be predictable and reliable. Then you can practice your moves, just as with any sport, even if all you have is a wood-block dummy to push around.<br />
<br />
You will need to effectively engage your rivals in the battle arena, identifying their strengths and seeking out and exploiting weaknesses in their bot designs and in their own driving. You might be able to watch videos of your opponent bots in prior matches to learn about their behavior. However, only in real combat will you learn all the instincts needed to adapt to ever-changing situations. Robot combat is a true sport, and its techniques can be learned and studied not only by watching the videos, but by going to events and fighting.<br />
<br />
Finally, steel yourself for failure. Parts will fail, things will break, batteries run out, circuits overheat, gears jam, connectors come unplugged, and mighty opponents may cut your bot to ribbons. "The general rule of thumb in any robot competition regardless of weight class is not to put a bot in the arena you aren't comfortable having destroyed."[https://old.reddit.com/r/battlebots/comments/8ogjpe/choosing_a_controller_rather_costprohibitive/e046ct1/] If defeat comes, congratulate your opponent, return to the pits, rebuild, and return to the arena and triumph.</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=GettingStarted&diff=719GettingStarted2023-02-12T16:51:43Z<p>User: /* Getting Started Guides */ - Added Repeat Robotics Guide</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:WAR_Arena_Seattle_Center.jpg|thumb|Robot Event at the Seattle Center]]<br />
<br />
If you are ready to get started, use this guide. While the creative possibilities in robot combat are endless, we'll start with some simple options for everyone, even the absolute beginner.<br />
<br />
=How to get started in combat robotics=<br />
<br />
===Go to events===<br />
Many builders get "hooked" by watching robots on TV or on YouTube. While you can learn from watching matches, it can be difficult to know how to get started from these sources. You might be able to find and connect with local robot builders using Discord or Facebook, but the first thing that every new builder should do is to go to '''[[Events]]''' and see how things are done in the real world. A typical small event is one day long, with check-in and preliminaries in the morning, and competition until every match has been completed. Some will even have restaurants or food trucks available, but in others you will need to prepare for your own needs.<br />
<br />
Even if you don't bring a robot, you should ask the event organizer if it is OK to walk around the pits and talk to the builders. Watching them prepare for their matches and repair robot damage will help you figure out what you'll need for your first event. While builders are generally friendly and helpful, '''do remember to be courteous''', as some of them will be preparing for a battle with very limited time, and often will not be able to talk to you while they work.<br />
<br />
===Learn the rules===<br />
Each robot combat event is governed by '''[[Rules|rules]]''' that specify such things as bot size and weight, allowable weapons, and safe behavior for both you and your bot. Learn what you are allowed to bring, how the event is scored, and how matches are structured. Listen in during the Driver's Meeting before the first match for a summary of requirements for participants.<br />
<br />
Before you compete, read the event rules carefully; even if an event adopts SPARC rules or another standard, local changes are not uncommon. Check with the event organizers if you have any doubts about whether your bot will be accepted.<br />
<br />
===Borrow a robot===<br />
If you aren't very familiar or comfortable with building things, and you want to experience robot combat without spending much money, ask about "loaner bots" at your local event. Some enthusiasts have a "stable" of several robots used for small gatherings, lectures and demonstrations. Some even rent their bots out for parties! You might be able to compete for just the cost of the entry fee. These bots will usually be small nondestructive types that are fairly durable.<br />
<br />
After a little experience driving a bot, think about owning your own. If it sounds interesting, read on!<br />
<br />
=Building your own robot=<br />
[[File:Tornado Strong 1200.jpg|thumb|right|150 gram combat robot]]<br />
<br />
If you have a great idea for a design, and the skills to make it happen, follow that dream! Most people, however, will want to start with a robot that has already been designed. There are two ways to do this. One is to buy a factory-made kit, and the other is to follow an existing design.<br />
<br />
Either way, in the process of assembly, you'll learn everything that goes into building your own bot. As you become familiar with the pieces, you'll not only begin to understand how it works, you will also better understand the ways it will fail. When you walk away from a match with a broken bot, you either need to have a plan to fix it, or you will need to call on the help of the other teams.<br />
<br />
===Pick a weight class===<br />
Once you've been to an event and decided to build a robot, you need to '''[[RobotClasses|pick a weight class]]''' for your first build. Take into consideration which weight classes are supported in the event(s) you plan to attend, your budget, and your building skills. Most builders start with "insect-weight" bots (the smallest and lightest classes) because they are the cheapest to build and maintain. Generally things get more expensive as they get bigger; the larger the weight class, the more destructive your opponents' bots will be, and the higher the likelihood that your bot will be damaged and require repair. Also, the building / fabrication requirements are very different for a 1-pound robot vs. a 30-pound robot. Start with something that you think you'll be able to complete, and if you have fun then you might go ahead and build a second and third robot.<br />
<br />
===Building from a kit===<br />
If you've decided to go with a '''[[Kits|factory-made kit]]''', you'll assemble a robot using instructions. Many will include a simple radio for control; others require you to buy one. Read the '''[[Radios]]''' section for suggestions. A few simple hand '''[[Tools For Beginners|tools]]''' are all you will need to get started.<br />
<br />
Ask your local event organizer if there are any robot-building classes available. You might be able to join a small group where everyone builds their own bot from a kit of parts.<br />
<br />
You should buy replacement parts along with your kit. For example, many kits have exposed wheels, and tires and wheels frequently are damaged by aggressive opponents.<br />
<br />
===Building following a design===<br />
If you're feeling more adventuresome, you can construct a bot according to plans you can get online. In almost every case these plans are free, but it can be tricky to judge which ones are worthwhile. Your local builders will have recommendations for you. See the '''[[3D Printing|3D printer]]''' page for a long list of available designs. Access to a 3D printer is required to make some of the parts for nearly every available design.<br />
<br />
A beginner's best bet is often to build in the 150 gram '''[[RobotClasses|weight class]]''', since these bots are small, inexpensive, and easy to repair when damaged. Local events almost always have a 150g competition. <br />
<br />
As you compete, you might come up with changes to the design you're using, like better armor or improved weapons. Experiment and learn, and don't be afraid to try wild ideas or to use scrap materials -- just stay within the weight limit and the rules. If you can do 3D design on a computer, you can also modify the plastic components of your kit.<br />
<br />
Side note about parts: Robot combat is an unusual hobby that is not well served by most hobby shops. Your local hobby or radio-control supply house probably specializes in trucks and racing, flying and sailing models, or multirotor aircraft. Even if they have a great selection of parts, they won't know what equipment is suitable or allowed by the rules, and they may be reluctant to sell to someone who intends to risk damage of their products. As a result, specialty '''[[Suppliers|robot combat suppliers]]''' have been created to meet the needs of people engaged in the sport.<br />
<br />
=Designing your own robot=<br />
If you want to go your own way, building robots of your own design is the pinnacle of competition and success. Whether you carefully engineer a plastic chassis for '''[[3D Printing|3D printing]]''', or rummage in the junkyard for bits and bobs, the goals are yours to set.<br />
<br />
Building and competing with your robot is supposed to be fun. Know yourself and pick a design that you will enjoy, but be sure to do something within your capabilities. Building a pneumatic flipper with no prior experience isn't a good choice for your first bot. Many in the hobby recommend starting with a simple pusher or lifter design, because more complicated designs require some knowledge of engineering, mechanical design, and materials science.<br />
<br />
===Picking components===<br />
Some people spend a ton of time picking motors and batteries and all the things that go into your first robot. It pays to take some time and make informed choices, but even advanced builders iterate and discover new components to improve their bots. Don't let 'perfect be the enemy of good'. Pick things that work, then iterate and make improvements over time as you go. If you are new to fabricating things take a look at the '''[[NameThatPart]]''' page to learn about different materials and some of the basic things you'll need to create your robot.<br />
<br />
===Build and test your robot===<br />
Before you start your build you want to make sure you have the '''[[Tools_For_Beginners|right tools]]'''. Nothing is more frustrating than setting aside time to build your robot only to find that you are missing a tool needed to build it.<br />
<br />
Safety is always important when building and testing your bot. If you have active weapons, begin with the weapons completely disconnected or removed. Do a "wheels-up" test of your drive system to make sure it is working as expected. Ensure that the failsafe is working correctly using just the driving motors first. If everything works, take the bot for a test drive before enabling the weapon, if you can do it safely.<br />
<br />
Once the driving motors are tested, you can install and connect the weapon. '''Weapons tests should be performed using a reinforced test box.''' Some builders will set up a camera to observe and record the bot while they and others remain safely out of the way. Get into the habit of performing tests in safe environments, as this is frequently a requirement in competitions.<br />
<br />
===Optimizing your robot===<br />
Beginning builders may not be aware of all the ways that the transmitter, receiver, and motor controls can be customized. After you've had some "stick time" driving the bot you may find it isn't as easy to control as you expected. Here are a few tips:<br />
<br />
*If you can't predict where the bot will steer, you may be having radio issues, but often it's poor traction; try a different driving surface.<br />
*If it steers to one side, you might have one motor faster than another; you can set your radio or ESC to limit the speed on one motor or boost another.<br />
*If your ESC offers braking, try it; you might find it easier to precisely position your bot before an attack.<br />
*You might be able to gain an edge when using your weapon. Setting endpoints and/or rate curves for servo motion on a flipper, for example, could position it for faster response to your stick movements.<br />
<br />
=Getting Started Guides=<br />
*Robert Cowan's [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1tXSzwzEM2jNGjZ2KYn00ldeHvEru0y3_zlNkVw-F9iI/edit?usp=sharing Combat Robot Resource Guide] is packed with useful links and tips.<br />
*Peter Garnache's [https://drive.google.com/file/d/12gA-8xjnxF9-k8PxmurhnEiuI-fv-Lz7/view Combat Robotics Design Handbook] is a great resource for bot builders looking to learn more about bot design, manufacturing techniques, or even just the classifications and naming conventions used in combat robotics.<br />
*[https://www.wikihow.com/Build-an-Antweight-Combat-Robot Build an Antweight] is a great visual guide to the process.<br />
*[https://combatrobotics.co.nz/build-guides/general/ New Zealand guide to getting started] connects "kiwis" with the local scene.<br />
*[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1u2wszjPiJOVeC017CCnXBpdU2_T24qVbukyguQFecx4/edit# The Box is Locked] helps you prepare for your first competition.<br />
*[https://www.reddit.com/r/battlebots/comments/3euojn/what_now_getting_started_in_robot_combat/ Reddit on getting started] has more great links.<br />
*[https://www.sparkfun.com/news/2763 SparkFun] had a rundown article by Cowan with great photos.<br />
*The most comprehensive is the [http://meggi.usuarios.rdc.puc-rio.br/docs/riobotz_combot_tutorial.pdf RioBots] tutorial, a full sized book packed with engineering know-how and real life experience. Beginners with small bots don't need to read this to succeed, but at least skim it to learn the basics and gain inspiration.<br />
*[http://repeat-robotics.com/handbook/ Repeat Robotics Beetle Guide] has a more focus approach to the popular Beetle weight class.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvNRtRuOALw Great YouTube Tutorial.] There is a lot of incomplete or inaccurate material on YouTube but this video does a great job covering the basics.<br />
<br />
=Preparing yourself=<br />
After the bot is built, it must be operated. Combat robots need drivers to succeed.<br />
<br />
Two keys to success in the bot arena are '''driving skills''' and '''strategy'''. First, you must become a master of your own bot. Find or make a safe place to test your bot without chance of injury to yourself, family, pets, and others, and get plenty of practice driving it as often as possible. Learn how long the battery will hold out before it must be charged. If possible, adjust your controls so that the bot moves and performs as your hands expect it to; for example, adjust the bot or the radio so that when the stick is pushed straight forward, the bot will go straight ahead, and not veer to one side. All of the bot's motions should be predictable and reliable. Then you can practice your moves, just as with any sport, even if all you have is a wood-block dummy to push around.<br />
<br />
You will need to effectively engage your rivals in the battle arena, identifying their strengths and seeking out and exploiting weaknesses in their bot designs and in their own driving. You might be able to watch videos of your opponent bots in prior matches to learn about their behavior. However, only in real combat will you learn all the instincts needed to adapt to ever-changing situations. Robot combat is a true sport, and its techniques can be learned and studied not only by watching the videos, but by going to events and fighting.<br />
<br />
Finally, steel yourself for failure. Parts will fail, things will break, batteries run out, circuits overheat, gears jam, connectors come unplugged, and mighty opponents may cut your bot to ribbons. "The general rule of thumb in any robot competition regardless of weight class is not to put a bot in the arena you aren't comfortable having destroyed."[https://old.reddit.com/r/battlebots/comments/8ogjpe/choosing_a_controller_rather_costprohibitive/e046ct1/] If defeat comes, congratulate your opponent, return to the pits, rebuild, and return to the arena and triumph.</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Kits&diff=716Kits2022-11-16T07:11:13Z<p>User: /* Robot Combat Kits */ Added Betz Botz kit</p>
<hr />
<div>==Robot Combat Kits==<br />
Many people don't have the fabrication or design experience to make a robot on their own so starting out with a kit is a great way to get into the sport. Be sure to check out your local event to see what weight-classes are supported. Make sure you know what is included in your kit. Most don't come with radios, batteries, or battery chargers.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Viper_Kit.png|thumb|FingerTech Viper Antweight]]<br />
<strong>150g Kits</strong><br><br />
The [https://shop.bristolbotbuilders.com/product/antkit/ <strong>Bristol Bot Builders</strong>] kit has the parts you'll need to get started but you'll need to make your own chassis.<br><br />
[https://nutsandbots.co.uk/product-category/robots/ <strong>Nuts and Bots 150g kits</strong>] come in three flavors, a wedge, a flipper and a grabber. These kits are underweight giving you room to add armor or to customize them.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/spark-150g-combat-robot-kit <strong>Spark!</strong>] kit is an undercutting disk spinner design intended for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
[https://turnabot.com/ <strong>Turnabot</strong>] has several 3D printed non-destructive robots with lifters and grabbers. The kits come as parts that you can put together yourself or for a little more money, fully assembled. [https://turnabot.com/?product=slipper <strong>Slipper</strong>], a Lifter. [https://turnabot.com/?product=squeezy <strong>Squeezy</strong>], a Horizontal Grabber. [https://turnabot.com/?product=santis <strong>Santis</strong>] a Vertical Lifter-Grabber. [https://turnabot.com/?product=slammer <strong>Slammer</strong>], a Vertical Lifter-Grabber.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<strong>1lb Kits</strong><br><br />
The [https://radrobotkits.com/rad-robot-store/p/baby-nautiloid-kit <strong>Baby Nautiloid</strong>] is a 2 wheel drive vertical spinner kit.<br> <br />
The [https://www.betzbotz.com/shop/p/betz-botz-ne26-1lb-antweight-combat-robot-kit <strong> Betz Botz NE2.7</strong>] is durable wedge robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-v2 <strong>FingerTech Viper</strong>] is a popular starting place. The Viper kit has [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-lifter-addon <strong>lifter</strong>] and both [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-v-spinner-addon <strong>vertical spinner</strong>] and [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-h-spinner-addon <strong>horizontal spinner</strong>] add-ons which make it a great expandable option for new builders. <br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/candy_wasp-kit-package <strong>Candy Wasp</strong>] antweight kit from [https://botkits.com BotKits.com] isn't as flexible as the viper kit but it is super durable and more likely to survive a competition.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-hellraiser <strong>Hellraiser</strong>] is a well built drum kit but is for more intermediate builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-lobotomy <strong>Lobotomy</strong>] kit has an effective undercutter but is for intermediate builders.<br> <br />
The [https://kitbots.com/product.sc?productId=26&categoryId=1 <strong>Saifu</strong>] drum bot kit is for more advanced builders and has won many events. This is a great choice for builders who want a kit robot with a powerful weapon.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-taserface <strong>Taserface</strong>] kit has a powerful vertical disk and is a good choice for intermediate builders who want a weapon bot.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/shock-1lb-combat-roobot-kit <strong>Shock!</strong>] kit is a powerful undercutting disk spinner design for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.etsy.com/listing/1153065612/4wd-antweight-combat-robot<strong>Synthwave</strong>] kit is a 4WD dual disk vertical spinner with a lot of style designed for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
<br><br />
<strong>3lb Kits</strong><br><br />
[[File:D2_Kit.jpg|thumb|D2 Beetle from BotKits]]<br />
[[File:Jolt Kit.jpg|thumb|Jolt! Kit from Absolute Chaos Robotics]]<br />
The [https://itgresa.com/product/beetleweight-chassis-kit-black-frost/ <strong>Black Frost</strong>] chassis kit is a great way to start off with a beetleweight robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/d2-combat-robot <strong>D2</strong>] kit is very durable and has won many events. Some builders don't like this kit because it is so competitive but it takes hours of practice to learn how to drive it well. <br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/mw1-combat-robot-chassis-kit <strong>MW1</strong>] kit is basically half a D2 kit and is designed for advanced builders who want to add a weapon onto the drivetrain.<br><br />
The [https://kitbots.com/product.sc?productId=19&categoryId=1 <strong>Weta</strong>] drum bot kit is a powerful beetleweight for more advanced builders who are interested in a weapon robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.endbots.com/products/vector-beetleweight-kit <strong>Vector</strong>] kit has a powerful horizontal spinner.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/jolt-3lb-combat-robot-kit <strong>Jolt!</strong>] kit is a powerful undercutting disk spinner design for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.golapse.xyz/product/smeetle <strong>Smeetleweight</strong>] kit is a wedge that looks to be difficult for opponents to avoid through high speed driving and an extremely wide design.<br><br />
The [https://www.owobotics.com/product/donkey-kit <strong>Team OgreKill "DONKEY"</strong>] kit is a solidly built wedge with a powerful brushless drive system.<br><br />
The [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-beetle-beater-bot <strong>FingerTech BeaterBar Kit</strong>] is an advanced kit containing all of the materials to make a beater bar bot, but leaving it to the builder to cut and shape the materials to make the frame.<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<strong>Bigger Robot Kits</strong><br><br />
[http://www.battlekits.com/ <strong>BattleKits</strong>] aren't fully functional kits but are drive platforms for larger robots ranging from sixty pound lightweights to two hundred fifty pound Battlebots. You'll need to fashion your own wedge or weapon to make these bots ready for combat.<br></div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Kits&diff=715Kits2022-09-20T03:08:57Z<p>User: added black frost beetle kit</p>
<hr />
<div>==Robot Combat Kits==<br />
Many people don't have the fabrication or design experience to make a robot on their own so starting out with a kit is a great way to get into the sport. Be sure to check out your local event to see what weight-classes are supported. Make sure you know what is included in your kit. Most don't come with radios, batteries, or battery chargers.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Viper_Kit.png|thumb|FingerTech Viper Antweight]]<br />
<strong>150g Kits</strong><br><br />
The [https://shop.bristolbotbuilders.com/product/antkit/ <strong>Bristol Bot Builders</strong>] kit has the parts you'll need to get started but you'll need to make your own chassis.<br><br />
[https://nutsandbots.co.uk/product-category/robots/ <strong>Nuts and Bots 150g kits</strong>] come in three flavors, a wedge, a flipper and a grabber. These kits are underweight giving you room to add armor or to customize them.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/spark-150g-combat-robot-kit <strong>Spark!</strong>] kit is an undercutting disk spinner design intended for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
[https://turnabot.com/ <strong>Turnabot</strong>] has several 3D printed non-destructive robots with lifters and grabbers. The kits come as parts that you can put together yourself or for a little more money, fully assembled. [https://turnabot.com/?product=slipper <strong>Slipper</strong>], a Lifter. [https://turnabot.com/?product=squeezy <strong>Squeezy</strong>], a Horizontal Grabber. [https://turnabot.com/?product=santis <strong>Santis</strong>] a Vertical Lifter-Grabber. [https://turnabot.com/?product=slammer <strong>Slammer</strong>], a Vertical Lifter-Grabber.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<strong>1lb Kits</strong><br><br />
The [https://radrobotkits.com/rad-robot-store/p/baby-nautiloid-kit <strong>Baby Nautiloid</strong>] is a new 2 wheel drive vertical spinner kit.<br> <br />
The [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-v2 <strong>FingerTech Viper</strong>] is a popular starting place. The Viper kit has [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-lifter-addon <strong>lifter</strong>] and both [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-v-spinner-addon <strong>vertical spinner</strong>] and [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-h-spinner-addon <strong>horizontal spinner</strong>] add-ons which make it a great expandable option for new builders. <br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/candy_wasp-kit-package <strong>Candy Wasp</strong>] antweight kit from [https://botkits.com BotKits.com] isn't as flexible as the viper kit but it is super durable and more likely to survive a competition.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-hellraiser <strong>Hellraiser</strong>] is a well built drum kit but is for more intermediate builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-lobotomy <strong>Lobotomy</strong>] kit has an effective undercutter but is for intermediate builders.<br> <br />
The [https://kitbots.com/product.sc?productId=26&categoryId=1 <strong>Saifu</strong>] drum bot kit is for more advanced builders and has won many events. This is a great choice for builders who want a kit robot with a powerful weapon.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-taserface <strong>Taserface</strong>] kit has a powerful vertical disk and is a good choice for intermediate builders who want a weapon bot.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/shock-1lb-combat-roobot-kit <strong>Shock!</strong>] kit is a powerful undercutting disk spinner design for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.etsy.com/listing/1153065612/4wd-antweight-combat-robot<strong>Synthwave</strong>] kit is a 4WD dual disk vertical spinner with a lot of style designed for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
<br><br />
<strong>3lb Kits</strong><br><br />
[[File:D2_Kit.jpg|thumb|D2 Beetle from BotKits]]<br />
[[File:Jolt Kit.jpg|thumb|Jolt! Kit from Absolute Chaos Robotics]]<br />
The [https://itgresa.com/product/beetleweight-chassis-kit-black-frost/ <strong>Black Frost</strong>] chassis kit is a great way to start off with a beetleweight robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/d2-combat-robot <strong>D2</strong>] kit is very durable and has won many events. Some builders don't like this kit because it is so competitive but it takes hours of practice to learn how to drive it well. <br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/mw1-combat-robot-chassis-kit <strong>MW1</strong>] kit is basically half a D2 kit and is designed for advanced builders who want to add a weapon onto the drivetrain.<br><br />
The [https://kitbots.com/product.sc?productId=19&categoryId=1 <strong>Weta</strong>] drum bot kit is a powerful beetleweight for more advanced builders who are interested in a weapon robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.endbots.com/products/vector-beetleweight-kit <strong>Vector</strong>] kit has a powerful horizontal spinner.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/jolt-3lb-combat-robot-kit <strong>Jolt!</strong>] kit is a powerful undercutting disk spinner design for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.golapse.xyz/product/smeetle <strong>Smeetleweight</strong>] kit is a wedge that looks to be difficult for opponents to avoid through high speed driving and an extremely wide design.<br><br />
The [https://www.owobotics.com/product/donkey-kit <strong>Team OgreKill "DONKEY"</strong>] kit is a solidly built wedge with a powerful brushless drive system.<br><br />
The [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-beetle-beater-bot <strong>FingerTech BeaterBar Kit</strong>] is an advanced kit containing all of the materials to make a beater bar bot, but leaving it to the builder to cut and shape the materials to make the frame.<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<strong>Bigger Robot Kits</strong><br><br />
[http://www.battlekits.com/ <strong>BattleKits</strong>] aren't fully functional kits but are drive platforms for larger robots ranging from sixty pound lightweights to two hundred fifty pound Battlebots. You'll need to fashion your own wedge or weapon to make these bots ready for combat.<br></div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=GettingStarted&diff=714GettingStarted2022-07-14T04:12:59Z<p>User: /* Getting Started Guides */ - Adding YouTube tutorial</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:WAR_Arena_Seattle_Center.jpg|thumb|Robot Event at the Seattle Center]]<br />
<br />
If you are ready to get started, use this guide. While the creative possibilities in robot combat are endless, we'll start with some simple options for everyone, even the absolute beginner.<br />
<br />
=How to get started in combat robotics=<br />
<br />
===Go to events===<br />
Many builders get "hooked" by watching robots on TV or on YouTube. While you can learn from watching matches, it can be difficult to know how to get started from these sources. You might be able to find and connect with local robot builders using Discord or Facebook, but the first thing that every new builder should do is to go to '''[[Events]]''' and see how things are done in the real world. A typical small event is one day long, with check-in and preliminaries in the morning, and competition until every match has been completed. Some will even have restaurants or food trucks available, but in others you will need to prepare for your own needs.<br />
<br />
Even if you don't bring a robot, you should ask the event organizer if it is OK to walk around the pits and talk to the builders. Watching them prepare for their matches and repair robot damage will help you figure out what you'll need for your first event. While builders are generally friendly and helpful, '''do remember to be courteous''', as some of them will be preparing for a battle with very limited time, and often will not be able to talk to you while they work.<br />
<br />
===Learn the rules===<br />
Each robot combat event is governed by '''[[Rules|rules]]''' that specify such things as bot size and weight, allowable weapons, and safe behavior for both you and your bot. Learn what you are allowed to bring, how the event is scored, and how matches are structured. Listen in during the Driver's Meeting before the first match for a summary of requirements for participants.<br />
<br />
Before you compete, read the event rules carefully; even if an event adopts SPARC rules or another standard, local changes are not uncommon. Check with the event organizers if you have any doubts about whether your bot will be accepted.<br />
<br />
===Borrow a robot===<br />
If you aren't very familiar or comfortable with building things, and you want to experience robot combat without spending much money, ask about "loaner bots" at your local event. Some enthusiasts have a "stable" of several robots used for small gatherings, lectures and demonstrations. Some even rent their bots out for parties! You might be able to compete for just the cost of the entry fee. These bots will usually be small nondestructive types that are fairly durable.<br />
<br />
After a little experience driving a bot, think about owning your own. If it sounds interesting, read on!<br />
<br />
=Building your own robot=<br />
[[File:Tornado Strong 1200.jpg|thumb|right|150 gram combat robot]]<br />
<br />
If you have a great idea for a design, and the skills to make it happen, follow that dream! Most people, however, will want to start with a robot that has already been designed. There are two ways to do this. One is to buy a factory-made kit, and the other is to follow an existing design.<br />
<br />
Either way, in the process of assembly, you'll learn everything that goes into building your own bot. As you become familiar with the pieces, you'll not only begin to understand how it works, you will also better understand the ways it will fail. When you walk away from a match with a broken bot, you either need to have a plan to fix it, or you will need to call on the help of the other teams.<br />
<br />
===Pick a weight class===<br />
Once you've been to an event and decided to build a robot, you need to '''[[RobotClasses|pick a weight class]]''' for your first build. Take into consideration which weight classes are supported in the event(s) you plan to attend, your budget, and your building skills. Most builders start with "insect-weight" bots (the smallest and lightest classes) because they are the cheapest to build and maintain. Generally things get more expensive as they get bigger; the larger the weight class, the more destructive your opponents' bots will be, and the higher the likelihood that your bot will be damaged and require repair. Also, the building / fabrication requirements are very different for a 1-pound robot vs. a 30-pound robot. Start with something that you think you'll be able to complete, and if you have fun then you might go ahead and build a second and third robot.<br />
<br />
===Building from a kit===<br />
If you've decided to go with a '''[[Kits|factory-made kit]]''', you'll assemble a robot using instructions. Many will include a simple radio for control; others require you to buy one. Read the '''[[Radios]]''' section for suggestions. A few simple hand '''[[Tools For Beginners|tools]]''' are all you will need to get started.<br />
<br />
Ask your local event organizer if there are any robot-building classes available. You might be able to join a small group where everyone builds their own bot from a kit of parts.<br />
<br />
You should buy replacement parts along with your kit. For example, many kits have exposed wheels, and tires and wheels frequently are damaged by aggressive opponents.<br />
<br />
===Building following a design===<br />
If you're feeling more adventuresome, you can construct a bot according to plans you can get online. In almost every case these plans are free, but it can be tricky to judge which ones are worthwhile. Your local builders will have recommendations for you. See the '''[[3D Printing|3D printer]]''' page for a long list of available designs. Access to a 3D printer is required to make some of the parts for nearly every available design.<br />
<br />
A beginner's best bet is often to build in the 150 gram '''[[RobotClasses|weight class]]''', since these bots are small, inexpensive, and easy to repair when damaged. Local events almost always have a 150g competition. <br />
<br />
As you compete, you might come up with changes to the design you're using, like better armor or improved weapons. Experiment and learn, and don't be afraid to try wild ideas or to use scrap materials -- just stay within the weight limit and the rules. If you can do 3D design on a computer, you can also modify the plastic components of your kit.<br />
<br />
Side note about parts: Robot combat is an unusual hobby that is not well served by most hobby shops. Your local hobby or radio-control supply house probably specializes in trucks and racing, flying and sailing models, or multirotor aircraft. Even if they have a great selection of parts, they won't know what equipment is suitable or allowed by the rules, and they may be reluctant to sell to someone who intends to risk damage of their products. As a result, specialty '''[[Suppliers|robot combat suppliers]]''' have been created to meet the needs of people engaged in the sport.<br />
<br />
=Designing your own robot=<br />
If you want to go your own way, building robots of your own design is the pinnacle of competition and success. Whether you carefully engineer a plastic chassis for '''[[3D Printing|3D printing]]''', or rummage in the junkyard for bits and bobs, the goals are yours to set.<br />
<br />
Building and competing with your robot is supposed to be fun. Know yourself and pick a design that you will enjoy, but be sure to do something within your capabilities. Building a pneumatic flipper with no prior experience isn't a good choice for your first bot. Many in the hobby recommend starting with a simple pusher or lifter design, because more complicated designs require some knowledge of engineering, mechanical design, and materials science.<br />
<br />
===Picking components===<br />
Some people spend a ton of time picking motors and batteries and all the things that go into your first robot. It pays to take some time and make informed choices, but even advanced builders iterate and discover new components to improve their bots. Don't let 'perfect be the enemy of good'. Pick things that work, then iterate and make improvements over time as you go. If you are new to fabricating things take a look at the '''[[NameThatPart]]''' page to learn about different materials and some of the basic things you'll need to create your robot.<br />
<br />
===Build and test your robot===<br />
Before you start your build you want to make sure you have the '''[[Tools_For_Beginners|right tools]]'''. Nothing is more frustrating than setting aside time to build your robot only to find that you are missing a tool needed to build it.<br />
<br />
Safety is always important when building and testing your bot. If you have active weapons, begin with the weapons completely disconnected or removed. Do a "wheels-up" test of your drive system to make sure it is working as expected. Ensure that the failsafe is working correctly using just the driving motors first. If everything works, take the bot for a test drive before enabling the weapon, if you can do it safely.<br />
<br />
Once the driving motors are tested, you can install and connect the weapon. '''Weapons tests should be performed using a reinforced test box.''' Some builders will set up a camera to observe and record the bot while they and others remain safely out of the way. Get into the habit of performing tests in safe environments, as this is frequently a requirement in competitions.<br />
<br />
===Optimizing your robot===<br />
Beginning builders may not be aware of all the ways that the transmitter, receiver, and motor controls can be customized. After you've had some "stick time" driving the bot you may find it isn't as easy to control as you expected. Here are a few tips:<br />
<br />
*If you can't predict where the bot will steer, you may be having radio issues, but often it's poor traction; try a different driving surface.<br />
*If it steers to one side, you might have one motor faster than another; you can set your radio or ESC to limit the speed on one motor or boost another.<br />
*If your ESC offers braking, try it; you might find it easier to precisely position your bot before an attack.<br />
*You might be able to gain an edge when using your weapon. Setting endpoints and/or rate curves for servo motion on a flipper, for example, could position it for faster response to your stick movements.<br />
<br />
=Getting Started Guides=<br />
*Robert Cowan's [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1tXSzwzEM2jNGjZ2KYn00ldeHvEru0y3_zlNkVw-F9iI/edit?usp=sharing Combat Robot Resource Guide] is packed with useful links and tips.<br />
*Peter Garnache's [https://drive.google.com/file/d/12gA-8xjnxF9-k8PxmurhnEiuI-fv-Lz7/view Combat Robotics Design Handbook] is a great resource for bot builders looking to learn more about bot design, manufacturing techniques, or even just the classifications and naming conventions used in combat robotics.<br />
*[https://www.wikihow.com/Build-an-Antweight-Combat-Robot Build an Antweight] is a great visual guide to the process.<br />
*[https://combatrobotics.co.nz/build-guides/general/ New Zealand guide to getting started] connects "kiwis" with the local scene.<br />
*[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1u2wszjPiJOVeC017CCnXBpdU2_T24qVbukyguQFecx4/edit# The Box is Locked] helps you prepare for your first competition.<br />
*[https://www.reddit.com/r/battlebots/comments/3euojn/what_now_getting_started_in_robot_combat/ Reddit on getting started] has more great links.<br />
*[https://www.sparkfun.com/news/2763 SparkFun] had a rundown article by Cowan with great photos.<br />
*The most comprehensive is the [http://meggi.usuarios.rdc.puc-rio.br/docs/riobotz_combot_tutorial.pdf RioBots] tutorial, a full sized book packed with engineering know-how and real life experience. Beginners with small bots don't need to read this to succeed, but at least skim it to learn the basics and gain inspiration.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvNRtRuOALw Great YouTube Tutorial.] There is a lot of incomplete or inaccurate material on YouTube but this video does a great job covering the basics.<br />
<br />
=Preparing yourself=<br />
After the bot is built, it must be operated. Combat robots need drivers to succeed.<br />
<br />
Two keys to success in the bot arena are '''driving skills''' and '''strategy'''. First, you must become a master of your own bot. Find or make a safe place to test your bot without chance of injury to yourself, family, pets, and others, and get plenty of practice driving it as often as possible. Learn how long the battery will hold out before it must be charged. If possible, adjust your controls so that the bot moves and performs as your hands expect it to; for example, adjust the bot or the radio so that when the stick is pushed straight forward, the bot will go straight ahead, and not veer to one side. All of the bot's motions should be predictable and reliable. Then you can practice your moves, just as with any sport, even if all you have is a wood-block dummy to push around.<br />
<br />
You will need to effectively engage your rivals in the battle arena, identifying their strengths and seeking out and exploiting weaknesses in their bot designs and in their own driving. You might be able to watch videos of your opponent bots in prior matches to learn about their behavior. However, only in real combat will you learn all the instincts needed to adapt to ever-changing situations. Robot combat is a true sport, and its techniques can be learned and studied not only by watching the videos, but by going to events and fighting.<br />
<br />
Finally, steel yourself for failure. Parts will fail, things will break, batteries run out, circuits overheat, gears jam, connectors come unplugged, and mighty opponents may cut your bot to ribbons. "The general rule of thumb in any robot competition regardless of weight class is not to put a bot in the arena you aren't comfortable having destroyed."[https://old.reddit.com/r/battlebots/comments/8ogjpe/choosing_a_controller_rather_costprohibitive/e046ct1/] If defeat comes, congratulate your opponent, return to the pits, rebuild, and return to the arena and triumph.</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Tournament_Brackets&diff=689Tournament Brackets2022-06-07T05:56:25Z<p>User: </p>
<hr />
<div>There are many different ways to run robot combat tournaments. Given the time and investment most builders have in their robots, they prefer tournament systems that guarentee them more than a single match but in some cases it isn't possible to hold that many matches.<br />
<br />
'''Tournament Tools'''<br />
Challonge<br />
BracketHQ<br />
<br />
'''Bracket Types'''<br />
Double Elimination<br />
Single Elimination<br />
Round Robin <br />
Swiss<br />
Ante Up</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Tournament_Brackets&diff=688Tournament Brackets2022-06-07T05:54:35Z<p>User: Just starting, needs content</p>
<hr />
<div>There are many different ways to run robot combat tournaments. Given the time and investment most builders have in their robots, they prefer tournament systems that guarentee them more than a single match but in some cases it isn't possible to hold that many matches.<br />
<br />
'''Bracket Types<br />
Double Elimination<br />
Single Elimination<br />
Round Robin <br />
Swiss<br />
Ante Up</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Connectors&diff=686Connectors2022-06-01T20:40:17Z<p>User: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:JST_Connector.jpg|thumb|Male and Female JST RCY Connectors]]<br />
In combat robotics we use connectors to rapidly disconnect and replace damaged parts such as batteries, motors, servos, and subassemblies (such as removable weapon modules). Repairs between rounds go more smoothly if you have replacement items standing by with connectors already attached and ready to go.<br />
<br />
==Applications==<br />
The most important connectors may be the ones on your battery. You'll need to be able to remove and refresh [[Batteries|batteries]] between matches so your bot doesn't weaken as the competition goes on. While some kit bots permit easy plug-in charging, swapping in a fresh battery will get your bot to 100% immediately.<br />
<br />
Another common bot failure is [[Motors|motors]]. If you can spare the weight, add motor connectors to your bot's motors and all the spares; this will drastically decrease swap and repair time. Just be aware that most connectors only plug together in one direction. If you won't be able to switch motor wires to fix polarity problems, you will need to know how to reverse the direction of a motor on your transmitter or ESC instead.<br />
<br />
If your bot has a [[Servos|servo]], try to leave its cable intact. That way, if a servo fails or its gears break, you can bolt in a spare servo and just plug it in.<br />
<br />
==Terminology==<br />
[[File:Deans_MF.PNG|thumb|Female and Male Deans Connectors]]<br />
* Male and Female connectors: Most connectors have a 'Male' connector type and a 'Female' connector type. There are a few reasons for this design approach. The connectors on the power-source side (battery) are typically 'Female' which means they receive the 'Male' connector which houses the electrical contacts inside the connector. This reduces the likelihood of a battery's connector touching something and short-circuiting by accident.<br />
* Polarized: Many connectors are not symmetrical which means they will only plug into each other in one direction. This ensures that the positive and negative sides of the battery are not accidentally reversed. (On some connectors, if you push hard enough you can still connect them backwards, so do look at the connectors while plugging them together.)<br />
* Crimped / Soldered: Wires need to be secured to the connector pins. This can be done physically by crushing the pin with a specialized crimping tool, or by soldering the wire to the connector. Pins are usually (but not always) designed to do only one or the other.<br />
* Anti-Spark: At higher voltages, electricity can arc across the connector. This damages the surface of the connector pins, which increases resistance and reduces their efficiency. Arc can even damage electronics. Some connectors are designed to reduce this effect. Although anti-sparking connectors can be more expensive, they are typically a better choice at high voltages.<br />
<br />
==Connector Types==<br />
[[File:AndersonConnectors.jpg|thumb|Anderson Connector Sizes]]<br />
The following are some of the most common connectors used in combat robotics.<br />
<br />
*'''JR''', '''Futaba''', '''DuPont''': The connectors used on small servos are called by various names. Nearly all are pre-crimped to small wires, and it's cheap to buy spare cables and use them for repairs. The wires and connectors don't carry much power, and they invariably have generic connectors that can be easily reversed by mistake. On radio-controlled equipment these are usually 3-pin connectors that plug straight into the Rx (receiver). For combat bots, taping these connectors together may be a wise choice.<br />
*'''JST RCY'''[https://www.jst.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/eRCY.pdf]: (Often called "JST", the name of the manufacturer.) These 3 amp, 2-pin crimp connectors are often seen on small Lipo batteries, and are frequently used in 150g or 1lb small robots. It's easiest to buy these with wires pre-attached for convenience (no need to own a crimping tool). Instead of the smaller 22 gauge wire, look for ones that have at least 20 gauge wire, which will easily handle 5 amps. They have only a tiny latch to hold them together, so you might want to physically secure them with tape or a zip-tie.<br />
*'''Amass XT''': The XT series connector style is popular because they are fairly compact and can handle high current. They come in 30, 60, and 90 amp versions but can handle more than their rated current for short periods of time. Additionally XT connectors come in anti-spark versions which are especially useful in high voltage applications. In combat robotics, the solder-cup types (XT30-U, XT60 and XT60H, and XT90H) are commonly used and require wires to be soldered to the pins. The connectors have a fair amount of thermal mass which can require a bit of practice with a quality soldering iron to make a good connection. Sometimes called "HeXTronik."<br />
*'''Amass MR''': The MR30 and MR60 series connectors have 3 pins and are used to make brushless motor disconnects.<br />
*'''Anderson PowerPole''': This older style connector is still very popular and comes in a range of physical sizes that are rated to handle between 15 and 350 amps. These connectors also have the advantage of a strong physical connection when plugged in. Although you can solder wires into these connectors, they are designed to be crimped.<br />
*'''Bullet''': These single-pin connectors come in various sizes to handle different current. They take up little space, but their physical connection can be weak. Like other connectors, securing them with tape will help prevent power loss during a match. The XT150 is one of the largest types, carrying up to 130 amps continuously.<br />
<br />
==Guides==<br />
Bunny of Team Malice has created a [https://teammalice.com/index.php/how-tos/ great connector guide].</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Talk:Connectors&diff=685Talk:Connectors2022-06-01T20:38:13Z<p>User: </p>
<hr />
<div>XT illustration, female/male discussion, and reality conflict. Text says F connectors are used on batteries, but F connector in photo has unshrouded male pins. --[[User:Chklnk|Chklnk]] ([[User talk:Chklnk|talk]]) 03:20, 27 May 2022 (UTC)<br />
<br />
Not completly sure I understand the concern. Is it with the wire-side connectors being visible? Is this image better? https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fitem%2F4000358105331.html&psig=AOvVaw2Bt5aIZbvZi61K0JGFVvPf&ust=1654147769855000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAwQjRxqFwoTCMioqOTCi_gCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAN<br />
<br />
Go to the Team Malice link at the bottom, they have male and female illustrated as the opposite what this wiki shows. If the pins are female than that side of the connector should be called female. I know some sticklers will say that the pins are F and the body M, therefore the connector is M, but that adds massive confusion... --[[User:Chklnk|Chklnk]] ([[User talk:Chklnk|talk]]) 19:53, 1 June 2022 (UTC)<br />
<br />
<br />
Changed the example to Deans connectors as it is clearer. There is some confusion with the XT Connectors in terms of the actual metal connectors being male and exposed, but the plastic housing bing bigger and a receptical for the other connector. It is confusing. The Deans example should work even though Deans connctors aren't used much anymore.</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Connectors&diff=684Connectors2022-06-01T20:36:27Z<p>User: changed Male-Female example</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:JST_Connector.jpg|thumb|Male and Female JST RCY Connectors]]<br />
In combat robotics we use connectors to rapidly disconnect and replace damaged parts such as batteries, motors, servos, and subassemblies (such as removable weapon modules). Repairs between rounds go more smoothly if you have replacement items standing by with connectors already attached and ready to go.<br />
<br />
==Applications==<br />
The most important connectors may be the ones on your battery. You'll need to be able to remove and refresh [[Batteries|batteries]] between matches so your bot doesn't weaken as the competition goes on. While some kit bots permit easy plug-in charging, swapping in a fresh battery will get your bot to 100% immediately.<br />
<br />
Another common bot failure is [[Motors|motors]]. If you can spare the weight, add motor connectors to your bot's motors and all the spares; this will drastically decrease swap and repair time. Just be aware that most connectors only plug together in one direction. If you won't be able to switch motor wires to fix polarity problems, you will need to know how to reverse the direction of a motor on your transmitter or ESC instead.<br />
<br />
If your bot has a [[Servos|servo]], try to leave its cable intact. That way, if a servo fails or its gears break, you can bolt in a spare servo and just plug it in.<br />
<br />
==Terminology==<br />
[[File:Deans_MF.PNG|thumb|Male and Female Deans Connectors]]<br />
* Male and Female connectors: Most connectors have a 'Male' connector type and a 'Female' connector type. There are a few reasons for this design approach. The connectors on the power-source side (battery) are typically 'Female' which means they receive the 'Male' connector which houses the electrical contacts inside the connector. This reduces the likelihood of a battery's connector touching something and short-circuiting by accident.<br />
* Polarized: Many connectors are not symmetrical which means they will only plug into each other in one direction. This ensures that the positive and negative sides of the battery are not accidentally reversed. (On some connectors, if you push hard enough you can still connect them backwards, so do look at the connectors while plugging them together.)<br />
* Crimped / Soldered: Wires need to be secured to the connector pins. This can be done physically by crushing the pin with a specialized crimping tool, or by soldering the wire to the connector. Pins are usually (but not always) designed to do only one or the other.<br />
* Anti-Spark: At higher voltages, electricity can arc across the connector. This damages the surface of the connector pins, which increases resistance and reduces their efficiency. Arc can even damage electronics. Some connectors are designed to reduce this effect. Although anti-sparking connectors can be more expensive, they are typically a better choice at high voltages.<br />
<br />
==Connector Types==<br />
[[File:AndersonConnectors.jpg|thumb|Anderson Connector Sizes]]<br />
The following are some of the most common connectors used in combat robotics.<br />
<br />
*'''JR''', '''Futaba''', '''DuPont''': The connectors used on small servos are called by various names. Nearly all are pre-crimped to small wires, and it's cheap to buy spare cables and use them for repairs. The wires and connectors don't carry much power, and they invariably have generic connectors that can be easily reversed by mistake. On radio-controlled equipment these are usually 3-pin connectors that plug straight into the Rx (receiver). For combat bots, taping these connectors together may be a wise choice.<br />
*'''JST RCY'''[https://www.jst.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/eRCY.pdf]: (Often called "JST", the name of the manufacturer.) These 3 amp, 2-pin crimp connectors are often seen on small Lipo batteries, and are frequently used in 150g or 1lb small robots. It's easiest to buy these with wires pre-attached for convenience (no need to own a crimping tool). Instead of the smaller 22 gauge wire, look for ones that have at least 20 gauge wire, which will easily handle 5 amps. They have only a tiny latch to hold them together, so you might want to physically secure them with tape or a zip-tie.<br />
*'''Amass XT''': The XT series connector style is popular because they are fairly compact and can handle high current. They come in 30, 60, and 90 amp versions but can handle more than their rated current for short periods of time. Additionally XT connectors come in anti-spark versions which are especially useful in high voltage applications. In combat robotics, the solder-cup types (XT30-U, XT60 and XT60H, and XT90H) are commonly used and require wires to be soldered to the pins. The connectors have a fair amount of thermal mass which can require a bit of practice with a quality soldering iron to make a good connection. Sometimes called "HeXTronik."<br />
*'''Amass MR''': The MR30 and MR60 series connectors have 3 pins and are used to make brushless motor disconnects.<br />
*'''Anderson PowerPole''': This older style connector is still very popular and comes in a range of physical sizes that are rated to handle between 15 and 350 amps. These connectors also have the advantage of a strong physical connection when plugged in. Although you can solder wires into these connectors, they are designed to be crimped.<br />
*'''Bullet''': These single-pin connectors come in various sizes to handle different current. They take up little space, but their physical connection can be weak. Like other connectors, securing them with tape will help prevent power loss during a match. The XT150 is one of the largest types, carrying up to 130 amps continuously.<br />
<br />
==Guides==<br />
Bunny of Team Malice has created a [https://teammalice.com/index.php/how-tos/ great connector guide].</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Connectors&diff=683Connectors2022-06-01T20:34:42Z<p>User: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:JST_Connector.jpg|thumb|Male and Female JST RCY Connectors]]<br />
In combat robotics we use connectors to rapidly disconnect and replace damaged parts such as batteries, motors, servos, and subassemblies (such as removable weapon modules). Repairs between rounds go more smoothly if you have replacement items standing by with connectors already attached and ready to go.<br />
<br />
==Applications==<br />
The most important connectors may be the ones on your battery. You'll need to be able to remove and refresh [[Batteries|batteries]] between matches so your bot doesn't weaken as the competition goes on. While some kit bots permit easy plug-in charging, swapping in a fresh battery will get your bot to 100% immediately.<br />
<br />
Another common bot failure is [[Motors|motors]]. If you can spare the weight, add motor connectors to your bot's motors and all the spares; this will drastically decrease swap and repair time. Just be aware that most connectors only plug together in one direction. If you won't be able to switch motor wires to fix polarity problems, you will need to know how to reverse the direction of a motor on your transmitter or ESC instead.<br />
<br />
If your bot has a [[Servos|servo]], try to leave its cable intact. That way, if a servo fails or its gears break, you can bolt in a spare servo and just plug it in.<br />
<br />
==Terminology==<br />
[[File:Deans_MF.png|thumb|Male and Female Deans Connectors]]<br />
* Male and Female connectors: Most connectors have a 'Male' connector type and a 'Female' connector type. There are a few reasons for this design approach. The connectors on the power-source side (battery) are typically 'Female' which means they receive the 'Male' connector which houses the electrical contacts inside the connector. This reduces the likelihood of a battery's connector touching something and short-circuiting by accident.<br />
* Polarized: Many connectors are not symmetrical which means they will only plug into each other in one direction. This ensures that the positive and negative sides of the battery are not accidentally reversed. (On some connectors, if you push hard enough you can still connect them backwards, so do look at the connectors while plugging them together.)<br />
* Crimped / Soldered: Wires need to be secured to the connector pins. This can be done physically by crushing the pin with a specialized crimping tool, or by soldering the wire to the connector. Pins are usually (but not always) designed to do only one or the other.<br />
* Anti-Spark: At higher voltages, electricity can arc across the connector. This damages the surface of the connector pins, which increases resistance and reduces their efficiency. Arc can even damage electronics. Some connectors are designed to reduce this effect. Although anti-sparking connectors can be more expensive, they are typically a better choice at high voltages.<br />
<br />
==Connector Types==<br />
[[File:AndersonConnectors.jpg|thumb|Anderson Connector Sizes]]<br />
The following are some of the most common connectors used in combat robotics.<br />
<br />
*'''JR''', '''Futaba''', '''DuPont''': The connectors used on small servos are called by various names. Nearly all are pre-crimped to small wires, and it's cheap to buy spare cables and use them for repairs. The wires and connectors don't carry much power, and they invariably have generic connectors that can be easily reversed by mistake. On radio-controlled equipment these are usually 3-pin connectors that plug straight into the Rx (receiver). For combat bots, taping these connectors together may be a wise choice.<br />
*'''JST RCY'''[https://www.jst.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/eRCY.pdf]: (Often called "JST", the name of the manufacturer.) These 3 amp, 2-pin crimp connectors are often seen on small Lipo batteries, and are frequently used in 150g or 1lb small robots. It's easiest to buy these with wires pre-attached for convenience (no need to own a crimping tool). Instead of the smaller 22 gauge wire, look for ones that have at least 20 gauge wire, which will easily handle 5 amps. They have only a tiny latch to hold them together, so you might want to physically secure them with tape or a zip-tie.<br />
*'''Amass XT''': The XT series connector style is popular because they are fairly compact and can handle high current. They come in 30, 60, and 90 amp versions but can handle more than their rated current for short periods of time. Additionally XT connectors come in anti-spark versions which are especially useful in high voltage applications. In combat robotics, the solder-cup types (XT30-U, XT60 and XT60H, and XT90H) are commonly used and require wires to be soldered to the pins. The connectors have a fair amount of thermal mass which can require a bit of practice with a quality soldering iron to make a good connection. Sometimes called "HeXTronik."<br />
*'''Amass MR''': The MR30 and MR60 series connectors have 3 pins and are used to make brushless motor disconnects.<br />
*'''Anderson PowerPole''': This older style connector is still very popular and comes in a range of physical sizes that are rated to handle between 15 and 350 amps. These connectors also have the advantage of a strong physical connection when plugged in. Although you can solder wires into these connectors, they are designed to be crimped.<br />
*'''Bullet''': These single-pin connectors come in various sizes to handle different current. They take up little space, but their physical connection can be weak. Like other connectors, securing them with tape will help prevent power loss during a match. The XT150 is one of the largest types, carrying up to 130 amps continuously.<br />
<br />
==Guides==<br />
Bunny of Team Malice has created a [https://teammalice.com/index.php/how-tos/ great connector guide].</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=File:Deans_MF.PNG&diff=682File:Deans MF.PNG2022-06-01T20:34:15Z<p>User: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Talk:Connectors&diff=680Talk:Connectors2022-06-01T05:31:57Z<p>User: </p>
<hr />
<div>XT illustration, female/male discussion, and reality conflict. Text says F connectors are used on batteries, but F connector in photo has unshrouded male pins. --[[User:Chklnk|Chklnk]] ([[User talk:Chklnk|talk]]) 03:20, 27 May 2022 (UTC)<br />
<br />
Not completly sure I understand the concern. Is it with the wire-side connectors being visible? Is this image better? https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fitem%2F4000358105331.html&psig=AOvVaw2Bt5aIZbvZi61K0JGFVvPf&ust=1654147769855000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAwQjRxqFwoTCMioqOTCi_gCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAN</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Weapons&diff=676Weapons2022-05-07T16:01:22Z<p>User: /* Wedgelets */</p>
<hr />
<div>One way to win a Robot Combat match is to incapacitate your opponent. People use many strategies and techniques in their bots to accomplish this. Some weapons focus on maximizing the damage they can inflict on their opponent, while other weapons are designed to control or invert their opponents so they can't drive. Many people have commented that strategies around weapon types are a bit like playing rock-paper-scissors: Designs that are effective against one type of opponent are less effective against others. <br />
<br />
<br />
=Lifting weapons=<br />
These weapons lift the opponent and cause them to lose control of motion. Since the overall goal of a match is to incompacitate your opponent, lifting an opponent off of its wheels can be an effective way to win a match. Lifters can be especially effective when the arena has a pit or an 'out' area where a lifter can place its opponent.<br />
<br />
==Wedges==<br />
A wedge is a sloped surface that might lift an opponent off the ground, even slightly. Many bots have wedges in their design, even if it appears to be only incidental to the bot's operation.<br />
===Uses===<br />
While they are simple passive weapons, wedges are very useful when the bot has a skilled driver.<br />
*Breaking contact between the opponent's wheels and the ground<br />
*Lifting an opponent until their weapon is unable to reach you, or no longer effective<br />
*Lifting an opponent to keep it from attacking your active weapon, assuming your weapon has greater reach than theirs<br />
*Lifting an opponent to feed it into your active weapon<br />
*Armored defense; deflection against attacking weapons<br />
*Crushing opponents against walls<br />
*Pushing opponents into hazards<br />
*Lifting opponents out of bounds or into a pit<br />
===Types===<br />
*'''Fixed''' wedges are attached to the body of the bot, or are part of the body. Many insect-weight bots have only two wheels, and a wedge or scoop holds up the front or back of the bot. A fixed wedge slightly above the arena floor can be effective, but may be ineffective against a lower wedge. Wedges that rest on the floor can become jammed due to floor scratches, uneven floors, and damage to the bot, and can be stuck under walls or barriers.<br />
*'''Hinged''' or ground-scraping wedges slide on the floor and may be more likely to get under an opponent, and they pivot to discourage jamming on uneven floors.<br />
===Wedgelets===<br />
Small wedges that are used to get under opponents are known as wedgelets. These can often save weight compared to a larger wedge, but can be difficult to make strong enough to survive an opponent's weapon. The '[https://www.botkits.com/collections/all-products/products/wolverine-kit-d2-version Wolverine Claws]' by [[BotKits.com]] are a very effective example. Recently, there has been a bit of an 'arms race' with wedglets becoming longer and longer in an effort to get under an opponent before they can get under you. Currently there aren't any rules on wedglet size or length but some events are considering them. Wedgelets offer little in the way of armored defense except against low attacks, but they have the benefit of being individually replaced without the cost of renewing a full-sized wedge.<br />
<br />
===Wedge design notes===<br />
# Generally the bot with the lower wedge is at an advantage, but imperfections in arena floors and walls can make it very difficult to drive if your wedge scrapes the arena floor.<br />
# When going against cutting weapons and spinners, give your bot a heavier wedge that is able to withstand the abuse.<br />
<br />
==Lifters==<br />
A lifter is designed to slide under another bot and pick it up. Lifters can be made in any shape or size that will give an advantage over an opponent.<br />
*Single vs. forks<br />
*Lift with spinner<br />
===Uses===<br />
*Disorientation and disruption of the opponent<br />
*Causing fall damage to opponents<br />
*Breaking off pieces of opponents<br />
*Disabling opponents if they land upside down, if they cannot self-right or operate inverted<br />
*Potentially lifting and carrying an opponent toward a pit or other hazard<br />
<br />
==Flippers and Launchers==<br />
A flipper is a lifter that is strong enough to rapidly flip an opponent upside-down and/or far away. This may be done with a simple [[Servos|servo]] on small bot.<br />
<br />
A flipper that is so fast and powerful that it can throw an opponent directly toward the ceiling of the arena is sometimes called a Launcher. These are made with complicated mechanisms that release stored energy from spring-powered, pneumatic, or hydraulic devices.<br />
<br />
===Lifter design notes===<br />
# On small bots, a lifter can be precisely positioned with a servo. Since the end of the lifter is often close to the ground, adjust your transmitter or receiver to a convenient "down" position.<br />
# Lifters should not use plastic-gear servos, as the gears tend to break during heavy use.<br />
# Remember that your opponent's bot weighs the same as your own in most cases. Proper balance (center of gravity) is required for your bot to be the one that stays on the ground!<br />
<br />
=Spinning weapons=<br />
'''Spinning weapons can inflict damage on opponents with a hard, fast impact from a rotating element.'''<br />
==Drum spinner==<br />
A vertically spinning weapon usually mounted across the front of a robot. Normally hitting an opponent with any part of the drum will inflict damage. They take various forms:<br />
*Solid drum with machined teeth<br />
*Solid drum with added teeth, bolt heads, etc.<br />
*Shaft with spinning discs<br />
*Machined bar stock, often hollow to save weight, sometimes with added teeth or bolts<br />
<br />
These are sometimes named "beater bars" after the spinning cylinder inside the front of an upright vacuum cleaner, but instead of beating and brushing carpets, they strike opposing bots. <br />
<br />
===Uses===<br />
*Disorientation and disruption of the opponent<br />
*Inflicts serious damage with an effective hit<br />
*May fling opponents into walls or hazards; fall damage<br />
===Advantages===<br />
* Super easy to use - aim and kill<br />
===Disadvantages===<br />
* [http://runamok.tech/insanity/gyroscopiceffect.html Gyroscopic effect] means that one side of the robot will tend to lift into the air, especially in turns.<br />
* Frequently damaged in fights due to high impacts<br />
===Construction tips===<br />
*The side facing opponents should strike upwards.<br />
*Drum spinners may be directly driven using a motor at one end (or even fitted inside the drum), but many are belt-driven instead.<br />
*Brushless motors are often used for maximum acceleration and effect.<br />
*Drum spinners require strong, heavily reinforced mounting points at both ends. In most cases a metal frame is required.<br />
*Both ends should have easily replaceable bearings. Bearings on the motor shaft or body often need to be reinforced as well.<br />
*The drum must be perfectly balanced to avoid severe vibration and loss of control.<br />
<br />
==Horizontal spinner==<br />
*Blades<br />
*Discs<br />
*Bars<br />
*High-mounted horizontals are great for damaging top-mounted weapons and may be positioned to reach over wedges to strike the body of opponents.<br />
*Low-mounted horizontals (undercutters) can destroy wheels, tires, guards and frames on many bots. However, they could be deflected by hardened wedges.<br />
*Gyroscopic effects<br />
<br />
Advantages:<br />
* Easier than a vert to target opponent with a big spinning horizontal element<br />
* Turning / yaw of the robot is not a problem<br />
<br />
Disadvantages<br />
* After a big hit, the reaction force can throw the aggressor robot across an arena into hazards or even destroy it<br />
* If the robot becomes tipped (e.g. on an opponent's wedge) it can gyro in a very uncontrollable manner<br />
<br />
==Vertical spinner==<br />
*Saw arms<br />
*Gyro effects<br />
==Angled spinner==<br />
<br />
==Overhead spinning weapons==<br />
<br />
Actively articulated weapons which incorporate a spinning element; technically more complex but can be effective and fun.<br />
<br />
* Overhead saw / hammer saw - does damage by abrading the top of the opponent where armour may be weak or exposed components<br />
* Overhead vertical spinner - kinetic energy overhead weapon - e.g. Battlebots heavyweight Sawblaze<br />
* Overhead drill<br />
<br />
=Full body weapons=<br />
'''Large portions of your bot, or even the entire bot, can be put into motion as a spinning weapon. These are tricky to build; it is crucial that the bot be perfectly balanced, with its weight evenly distributed, so that it doesn't lose control or tear itself apart.'''<br />
==Shell spinner==<br />
The armor / body of a shell spinner rotates around robot's internal components. When done correctly this weapon can provide 360-degrees of offence and defence which makes it an appealing option. There can be challenges with stability if the shell isn't properly balanced. Also shell spinners can not operate inverted; they will often have a curved bar coming out of the top to aid in self-righting.<br />
<br />
==Ring spinner==<br />
This type of bot has a round, steerable core surrounded by a spinning ring. It is similar to a shell-spinner in appearance but the spinner doesn't rotate on a central shaft. This approach does have the advantage of making it easier to drive the weapon with multiple motors but the integrity of the ring can be difficult to maintain upon impacts which often results in shell spinners stopping their spinning.<br />
<br />
==Meltybrain==<br />
The entire bot spins rapidly, but using computer-assisted controls, it can still be steered. See '''[[Melty Brain]]'''.<br />
<br />
==Thwackbot==<br />
Any of the above bots, but incorporating a hammer, or an arm with spikes, extending from the side of the bot. It is driven into position and then commanded to spin in place to create a circular zone in which other bots may be damaged. Since Thwackbots just spin in place, they typically require an opponent to drive into them. It is possible for thwackbots to drive towards an opponent perform a skid-and-spin manuver to hit them but these attacks typically have less power. Thwack bots don't qualify for events that require active weapons but if they include [[Melty_Brain|Meltybrain]] drive they will often qualify.<br />
<br />
==Full body flail==<br />
A variant of the thwackbot that incorporates one or more flails (like a mace, or a chain) which can be whipped around to cause damage. These are more difficult to operate, since the weight distribution of the weapon is not fixed.<br />
<br />
==Full body drum==<br />
<br />
<br />
=Hammer weapons=<br />
'''Hammers inflict destructive shock waves, dents, and puncture damage on opponents.'''<br />
<br />
==Impact/blunt==<br />
==Spike/piercing==<br />
==Horizontal==<br />
*Rare<br />
<br />
=Control weapons=<br />
'''Seize control of opponents and puncture or throw them for damage.'''<br />
==Clamp==<br />
*Dustpan<br />
==Suplex==<br />
==Crushers==<br />
*Mandibles<br />
*Spike/scorpion<br />
<br />
=Ramming weapons=<br />
'''Ramming weapons are intended to be driven toward opponents to cause damage.'''<br />
==Spear/piercing==<br />
==Plows==<br />
*Steering opponents<br />
*Articulation<br />
==Ramming design notes==<br />
# These weapons are only effective in bots with high acceleration, high speed, high traction, and very skilled drivers.<br />
<br />
=Other=<br />
'''There are other weapon types that are uncommon and/or not permitted in most event rules due to reasons of safety, liability, or arena durability.'''<br />
==Flamethrowers==<br />
Flame weapons can set fire to vulnerable pieces of opponents' bots, and can potentially cause over-temperature shutdown or damage to electronics. They are among the most spectacular weapons, even when ineffective due to defensive armor.<br />
<br />
Where permitted, flame weapons must follow strict build guidelines concerning fuels, pressurization and pressure containers, suitable valves and materials, duration of use, and many more details. If you are seriously thinking of using them, work closely with the event organizers and place yourself under the mentorship of a builder experienced in flame weapons.<br />
==Projectiles==<br />
*Cannon</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=RobotCommunity&diff=673RobotCommunity2022-05-05T16:18:29Z<p>User: /* Forums / Discussion Groups */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Social_Media.png|thumb]]<br />
=Robot Combat Community=<br />
There are many different online robot combat communities: some are for general discussion and fandom, some are regional groups, and some specialize in different robot classes or technical matters. There are also numerous event organizers, teams, fans, and individuals who post robot combat-related videos, including entire events, matches, build videos, technical tips, guidance and encouragement, and much more.<br />
<br />
*For robot combat events and the organizations that run them, see the '''[[Events]]''' page.<br />
*This '''[https://www.facebook.com/groups/RobotCombat Combat Robotics Facebook group]''' is a central hub community for combat robotics.<br />
<br />
==Forums / Discussion Groups==<br />
'''Robot Weight Class Groups'''<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/antweights/ Antweight - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/1463505713957474 Beetleweight - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/featherweights Featherweight - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/496385778192584 Plastic Antweight - Facebook Group]<br />
<br />
'''General Groups'''<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/238151986542667/ Brushless motors for Robot Combat - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/1682680748570381/ 3D Printing for Robot Combat - Facebook Group]<br />
<br />
'''Regional Groups'''<br />
* Australia<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/AdelaideRobotCombat Adelaide Robot Combat - Facebook Group]<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/melbournecombatrobotics Melbourne Combat Robotics - Facebook Group]<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/RobowarsAustralia Robowars Australia - Facebook Group]<br />
* New Zealand<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/CombatRobotNZ Combat Robotics NZ - Facebook Group]<br />
* Germany<br />
** [https://forum.roboteers.org/ German Roboteers Association forum] - (Deutsch)<br />
* UK<br />
** [https://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/forum UK Fighting Robot Association - Forum]<br />
** [https://robotwars101.org/forum/index.php Robotwars101 forum] - very long running forum mostly for UK 150g robot builders<br />
* Canada<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/SCRCKilobots/ Kilobots (Canada) - Facebook Page]<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/319815841473272 Kilobots (Canada) - Facebook Group]<br />
* USA<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/NorthEastRoboticsClub North East Robotics Club - Facebook Group]<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/640098953444052 Southern California Attack Robotics - Facebook Group]<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/512154462223892 Western Allied Robotics - Facebook Group]<br />
** [https://50day.io/mediawiki/index.php/NHRL_Discord Norwalk Havoc Robot League - Discord]<br />
** [https://discord.com/channels/835330679289413642/835332318192599052 Midwest Robotic Combat - Discord]<br />
<br />
'''Fan Groups'''<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/56319454480/ BattleBots - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.reddit.com/r/battlebots/ BattleBots - Reddit Group]<br />
*[https://www.reddit.com/r/robotwars/ Robot Wars - Reddit Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/shuntposting/ Robot Wars Shuntposting - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/combatrobotfloorposting/ Robot Combat Floorposting - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/4202869009821747/ Combat Robot Association of Builders (for memes) - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://discord.com/channels/293793025761476611/412189458637520896 Out of the Arena - Discord]<br />
<br />
==Video Channels==<br />
{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/M5Lgpsl71EI|500|right}}<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPMThfZUPqx_dlbjoY0jznQ/videos Alta's Projects] - Build Reports and more.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUREdIin5ovova2M-d1el0Q Bad Timing Robotics] - Build Reports and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/c/battlebots/featured Battlebots] - Robot Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgtGu3_oWlIb01Zeub9J5cA/featured Battlebots Boy] - Robot matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAaZf7FGpoHR0urG05VJXZQ BotsFC] - Team and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrinqRJI7jFwHEIzEDdJxqg BuggleBots] - Event Videos.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmv_9swlijbd7s1MN9YH9RA Caley Creations] - Build reports.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/user/CJSowry/featured CJSowry] - Build Reports.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCurPHEXosYKC35UU1FmfPuQ Doerfler Robotics] - Robot matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAaZf7FGpoHR0urG05VJXZQ Ellis - Ranglebox] - Team builds and more.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCapD6xYg-9MuUQSlosF0CHg Endbots] - Build videos and tutorials.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/c/ESCExtremeScrutinyClub/videos Extreme Scrutiny Club] - Robot commentary and matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/user/flipperbotsrule/videos Flipper Bots Rule] - Robot Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSK-Hy0yP6wZhcTAr7mExuQ/featured Glitter Bomb] - Builds and Robot Wars.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrRxLKE-RNuoXSQeRVSt1rQ/featured Grass Kicker] - Build Reports.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIeacXhc2Hr19wTXuhKnn0A Inferno Lab] - Robot Fights and Interviews.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxyihHnxzYXPmCYLlq84NcA/featured Jack Sopotnick] - Build Reports and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCajSoPRmrUniyTvOqUTdoOg Jimmi Cottam] - Build Reports and Projects.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAaZf7FGpoHR0urG05VJXZQ Joe Brown] - Build Reports and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdwbH5t_qEjTydMf2-R03A Luke Quin] - Build Reports and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChgAZxOWR0S3Q376oAodGjQ Norwalk Havoc Robot League] - High quality production event videos.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSwfE-MCPuYH6wPb1wd8Hkg Paul Sinn] - Robot Fights.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/c/PlacerRobotics/featured Placer Robotics] - Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/user/cowanrg9 Robert Cowan] - This channel has a ton of useful tutorials.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC841yoxexRdPbcg8VRbkPtA/videos Robot Combat Events] - Event and Fight videos.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNAntxH3WO9eHzZKFchkvOg/videos Robot Wars Shuntcasting] - Interviews and fun stuff.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCW7ddzORR0YE21Ax4PX1SZg/featured Ruddy Duck] - Build Reports.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTCouWNWFxqkdr17wCTYuAQ Sam Eliot64] - RoboCast.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUR8xVssy_n4AKiKCKGzyhA/featured Team D20] - Team matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUREdIin5ovova2M-d1el0Q Team Dino] - Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIjKmj7MuUGPOeVv-QhDIBQ Team Duck] - Build Reports.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_anZpZVNrWKbURRuYSorPg/featured Team Get Wrecked] - Builds and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsoZN2VwWJbJ30y2e2sfmnw Team Just 'Cuz Robotics] - Build videos and tutorials.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSp8sTttNnL-RC4cVM9JKmg Team Nelly] - Team Nelly the Ellybot.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbDydTsXClCWBMAKIdmmgaA Team Orby] - Build videos and tutorials.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKVSXljMloS4gWibRwCFzRA Team Panic] - Build videos and tutorials.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqoHqZnbF01GGYMcB1Y8NHA?app=desktop&fbclid=IwAR0iLQCrn-kMTHYrLgGWSzDvxLwcZnHUMj7PLYeDu0v7OvGKAIOXZ45b68Y Team Scorpios] - Build Reports.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8SXRFkscxQdpb_KluzH1RA Team Shreddit] - Build Reports and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/user/TeamVelocity Team Velocity] - Fight videos.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfEg8zL8dXnT3wH3nqE-f8Q/featured Texas Robot Combat] - Matches and more.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYrLK4FAq9KYCdn43Nlh1zA World of Woodrow] - Lots of great videos including 'The Week In Robot Combat'.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Blogs / Personal Pages==</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=RobotCommunity&diff=672RobotCommunity2022-05-05T16:14:56Z<p>User: /* Forums / Discussion Groups */ - addd MWRC Discord</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Social_Media.png|thumb]]<br />
=Robot Combat Community=<br />
There are many different online robot combat communities: some are for general discussion and fandom, some are regional groups, and some specialize in different robot classes or technical matters. There are also numerous event organizers, teams, fans, and individuals who post robot combat-related videos, including entire events, matches, build videos, technical tips, guidance and encouragement, and much more.<br />
<br />
*For robot combat events and the organizations that run them, see the '''[[Events]]''' page.<br />
*This '''[https://www.facebook.com/groups/RobotCombat Combat Robotics Facebook group]''' is a central hub community for combat robotics.<br />
<br />
==Forums / Discussion Groups==<br />
'''Robot Weight Class Groups'''<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/antweights/ Antweight - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/1463505713957474 Beetleweight - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/featherweights Featherweight - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/496385778192584 Plastic Antweight - Facebook Group]<br />
<br />
'''General Groups'''<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/238151986542667/ Brushless motors for Robot Combat - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/1682680748570381/ 3D Printing for Robot Combat - Facebook Group]<br />
<br />
'''Regional Groups'''<br />
* Australia<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/AdelaideRobotCombat Adelaide Robot Combat - Facebook Group]<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/melbournecombatrobotics Melbourne Combat Robotics - Facebook Group]<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/RobowarsAustralia Robowars Australia - Facebook Group]<br />
* New Zealand<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/CombatRobotNZ Combat Robotics NZ - Facebook Group]<br />
* Germany<br />
** [https://forum.roboteers.org/ German Roboteers Association forum] - (Deutsch)<br />
* UK<br />
** [https://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/forum UK Fighting Robot Association - Forum]<br />
** [https://robotwars101.org/forum/index.php Robotwars101 forum] - very long running forum mostly for UK 150g robot builders<br />
* Canada<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/SCRCKilobots/ Kilobots (Canada) - Facebook Page]<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/319815841473272 Kilobots (Canada) - Facebook Group]<br />
* USA<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/NorthEastRoboticsClub North East Robotics Club - Facebook Group]<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/640098953444052 Southern California Attack Robotics - Facebook Group]<br />
** [https://www.facebook.com/groups/512154462223892 Western Allied Robotics - Facebook Group]<br />
** [https://50day.io/mediawiki/index.php/NHRL_Discord Norwalk Havoc Robot League - Discord]<br />
** [https://discord.com/channels/835330679289413642/835332318192599052 Midwest Robotic Combat - Discord]<br />
<br />
'''Fan Groups'''<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/56319454480/ BattleBots - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.reddit.com/r/battlebots/ BattleBots - Reddit Group]<br />
*[https://www.reddit.com/r/robotwars/ Robot Wars - Reddit Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/shuntposting/ Robot Wars Shuntposting - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/combatrobotfloorposting/ Robot Combat Floorposting - Facebook Group]<br />
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/4202869009821747/ Combat Robot Association of Builders (for memes) - Facebook Group]<br />
<br />
==Video Channels==<br />
{{#ev:youtube|https://youtu.be/M5Lgpsl71EI|500|right}}<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPMThfZUPqx_dlbjoY0jznQ/videos Alta's Projects] - Build Reports and more.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUREdIin5ovova2M-d1el0Q Bad Timing Robotics] - Build Reports and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/c/battlebots/featured Battlebots] - Robot Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgtGu3_oWlIb01Zeub9J5cA/featured Battlebots Boy] - Robot matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAaZf7FGpoHR0urG05VJXZQ BotsFC] - Team and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrinqRJI7jFwHEIzEDdJxqg BuggleBots] - Event Videos.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmv_9swlijbd7s1MN9YH9RA Caley Creations] - Build reports.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/user/CJSowry/featured CJSowry] - Build Reports.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCurPHEXosYKC35UU1FmfPuQ Doerfler Robotics] - Robot matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAaZf7FGpoHR0urG05VJXZQ Ellis - Ranglebox] - Team builds and more.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCapD6xYg-9MuUQSlosF0CHg Endbots] - Build videos and tutorials.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/c/ESCExtremeScrutinyClub/videos Extreme Scrutiny Club] - Robot commentary and matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/user/flipperbotsrule/videos Flipper Bots Rule] - Robot Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSK-Hy0yP6wZhcTAr7mExuQ/featured Glitter Bomb] - Builds and Robot Wars.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrRxLKE-RNuoXSQeRVSt1rQ/featured Grass Kicker] - Build Reports.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIeacXhc2Hr19wTXuhKnn0A Inferno Lab] - Robot Fights and Interviews.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxyihHnxzYXPmCYLlq84NcA/featured Jack Sopotnick] - Build Reports and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCajSoPRmrUniyTvOqUTdoOg Jimmi Cottam] - Build Reports and Projects.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAaZf7FGpoHR0urG05VJXZQ Joe Brown] - Build Reports and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdwbH5t_qEjTydMf2-R03A Luke Quin] - Build Reports and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChgAZxOWR0S3Q376oAodGjQ Norwalk Havoc Robot League] - High quality production event videos.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSwfE-MCPuYH6wPb1wd8Hkg Paul Sinn] - Robot Fights.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/c/PlacerRobotics/featured Placer Robotics] - Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/user/cowanrg9 Robert Cowan] - This channel has a ton of useful tutorials.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC841yoxexRdPbcg8VRbkPtA/videos Robot Combat Events] - Event and Fight videos.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNAntxH3WO9eHzZKFchkvOg/videos Robot Wars Shuntcasting] - Interviews and fun stuff.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCW7ddzORR0YE21Ax4PX1SZg/featured Ruddy Duck] - Build Reports.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTCouWNWFxqkdr17wCTYuAQ Sam Eliot64] - RoboCast.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUR8xVssy_n4AKiKCKGzyhA/featured Team D20] - Team matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUREdIin5ovova2M-d1el0Q Team Dino] - Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIjKmj7MuUGPOeVv-QhDIBQ Team Duck] - Build Reports.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_anZpZVNrWKbURRuYSorPg/featured Team Get Wrecked] - Builds and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsoZN2VwWJbJ30y2e2sfmnw Team Just 'Cuz Robotics] - Build videos and tutorials.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSp8sTttNnL-RC4cVM9JKmg Team Nelly] - Team Nelly the Ellybot.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbDydTsXClCWBMAKIdmmgaA Team Orby] - Build videos and tutorials.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKVSXljMloS4gWibRwCFzRA Team Panic] - Build videos and tutorials.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqoHqZnbF01GGYMcB1Y8NHA?app=desktop&fbclid=IwAR0iLQCrn-kMTHYrLgGWSzDvxLwcZnHUMj7PLYeDu0v7OvGKAIOXZ45b68Y Team Scorpios] - Build Reports.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8SXRFkscxQdpb_KluzH1RA Team Shreddit] - Build Reports and Matches.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/user/TeamVelocity Team Velocity] - Fight videos.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfEg8zL8dXnT3wH3nqE-f8Q/featured Texas Robot Combat] - Matches and more.<br />
*[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYrLK4FAq9KYCdn43Nlh1zA World of Woodrow] - Lots of great videos including 'The Week In Robot Combat'.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Blogs / Personal Pages==</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Weapons&diff=671Weapons2022-05-03T05:52:10Z<p>User: /* Lifting weapons */</p>
<hr />
<div>One way to win a Robot Combat match is to incapacitate your opponent. People use many strategies and techniques in their bots to accomplish this. Some weapons focus on maximizing the damage they can inflict on their opponent, while other weapons are designed to control or invert their opponents so they can't drive. Many people have commented that strategies around weapon types are a bit like playing rock-paper-scissors: Designs that are effective against one type of opponent are less effective against others. <br />
<br />
<br />
=Lifting weapons=<br />
These weapons lift the opponent and cause them to lose control of motion. Since the overall goal of a match is to incompacitate your opponent, lifting an opponent off of its wheels can be an effective way to win a match. Lifters can be especially effective when the arena has a pit or an 'out' area where a lifter can place its opponent.<br />
<br />
==Wedges==<br />
A wedge is a sloped surface that might lift an opponent off the ground, even slightly. Many bots have wedges in their design, even if it appears to be only incidental to the bot's operation.<br />
===Uses===<br />
While they are simple passive weapons, wedges are very useful when the bot has a skilled driver.<br />
*Breaking contact between the opponent's wheels and the ground<br />
*Lifting an opponent until their weapon is unable to reach you, or no longer effective<br />
*Lifting an opponent to keep it from attacking your active weapon, assuming your weapon has greater reach than theirs<br />
*Lifting an opponent to feed it into your active weapon<br />
*Armored defense; deflection against attacking weapons<br />
*Crushing opponents against walls<br />
*Pushing opponents into hazards<br />
*Lifting opponents out of bounds or into a pit<br />
===Types===<br />
*'''Fixed''' wedges are attached to the body of the bot, or are part of the body. Many insect-weight bots have only two wheels, and a wedge or scoop holds up the front or back of the bot. A fixed wedge slightly above the arena floor can be effective, but may be ineffective against a lower wedge. Wedges that rest on the floor can become jammed due to floor scratches, uneven floors, and damage to the bot, and can be stuck under walls or barriers.<br />
*'''Hinged''' or ground-scraping wedges slide on the floor and may be more likely to get under an opponent, and they pivot to discourage jamming on uneven floors.<br />
===Wedgelets===<br />
Small wedges that are used to get under opponents are known as wedgelets. These can often save weight compared to a larger wedge, but can be difficult to make strong enough to survive an opponent's weapon. The '[https://www.botkits.com/collections/all-products/products/wolverine-kit-d2-version Wolverine Claws]' by [[BotKits.com]] are a very effective example. Wedgelets offer little in the way of armored defense except against low attacks, but they have the benefit of being individually replaced without the cost of renewing a full-sized wedge.<br />
===Wedge design notes===<br />
# Generally the bot with the lower wedge is at an advantage, but imperfections in arena floors and walls can make it very difficult to drive if your wedge scrapes the arena floor.<br />
# When going against cutting weapons and spinners, give your bot a heavier wedge that is able to withstand the abuse.<br />
<br />
==Lifters==<br />
A lifter is designed to slide under another bot and pick it up. Lifters can be made in any shape or size that will give an advantage over an opponent.<br />
*Single vs. forks<br />
*Lift with spinner<br />
===Uses===<br />
*Disorientation and disruption of the opponent<br />
*Causing fall damage to opponents<br />
*Breaking off pieces of opponents<br />
*Disabling opponents if they land upside down, if they cannot self-right or operate inverted<br />
*Potentially lifting and carrying an opponent toward a pit or other hazard<br />
<br />
==Flippers and Launchers==<br />
A flipper is a lifter that is strong enough to rapidly flip an opponent upside-down and/or far away. This may be done with a simple [[Servos|servo]] on small bot.<br />
<br />
A flipper that is so fast and powerful that it can throw an opponent directly toward the ceiling of the arena is sometimes called a Launcher. These are made with complicated mechanisms that release stored energy from spring-powered, pneumatic, or hydraulic devices.<br />
<br />
===Lifter design notes===<br />
# On small bots, a lifter can be precisely positioned with a servo. Since the end of the lifter is often close to the ground, adjust your transmitter or receiver to a convenient "down" position.<br />
# Lifters should not use plastic-gear servos, as the gears tend to break during heavy use.<br />
# Remember that your opponent's bot weighs the same as your own in most cases. Proper balance (center of gravity) is required for your bot to be the one that stays on the ground!<br />
<br />
=Spinning weapons=<br />
'''Spinning weapons can inflict damage on opponents with a hard, fast impact from a rotating element.'''<br />
==Drum spinner==<br />
A vertically spinning weapon usually mounted across the front of a robot. Normally hitting an opponent with any part of the drum will inflict damage. They take various forms:<br />
*Solid drum with machined teeth<br />
*Solid drum with added teeth, bolt heads, etc.<br />
*Shaft with spinning discs<br />
*Machined bar stock, often hollow to save weight, sometimes with added teeth or bolts<br />
<br />
These are sometimes named "beater bars" after the spinning cylinder inside the front of an upright vacuum cleaner, but instead of beating and brushing carpets, they strike opposing bots. <br />
<br />
===Uses===<br />
*Disorientation and disruption of the opponent<br />
*Inflicts serious damage with an effective hit<br />
*May fling opponents into walls or hazards; fall damage<br />
===Advantages===<br />
* Super easy to use - aim and kill<br />
===Disadvantages===<br />
* [http://runamok.tech/insanity/gyroscopiceffect.html Gyroscopic effect] means that one side of the robot will tend to lift into the air, especially in turns.<br />
* Frequently damaged in fights due to high impacts<br />
===Construction tips===<br />
*The side facing opponents should strike upwards.<br />
*Drum spinners may be directly driven using a motor at one end (or even fitted inside the drum), but many are belt-driven instead.<br />
*Brushless motors are often used for maximum acceleration and effect.<br />
*Drum spinners require strong, heavily reinforced mounting points at both ends. In most cases a metal frame is required.<br />
*Both ends should have easily replaceable bearings. Bearings on the motor shaft or body often need to be reinforced as well.<br />
*The drum must be perfectly balanced to avoid severe vibration and loss of control.<br />
<br />
==Horizontal spinner==<br />
*Blades<br />
*Discs<br />
*Bars<br />
*High-mounted horizontals are great for damaging top-mounted weapons and may be positioned to reach over wedges to strike the body of opponents.<br />
*Low-mounted horizontals (undercutters) can destroy wheels, tires, guards and frames on many bots. However, they could be deflected by hardened wedges.<br />
*Gyroscopic effects<br />
<br />
Advantages:<br />
* Easier than a vert to target opponent with a big spinning horizontal element<br />
* Turning / yaw of the robot is not a problem<br />
<br />
Disadvantages<br />
* After a big hit, the reaction force can throw the aggressor robot across an arena into hazards or even destroy it<br />
* If the robot becomes tipped (e.g. on an opponent's wedge) it can gyro in a very uncontrollable manner<br />
<br />
==Vertical spinner==<br />
*Saw arms<br />
*Gyro effects<br />
==Angled spinner==<br />
<br />
==Overhead spinning weapons==<br />
<br />
Actively articulated weapons which incorporate a spinning element; technically more complex but can be effective and fun.<br />
<br />
* Overhead saw / hammer saw - does damage by abrading the top of the opponent where armour may be weak or exposed components<br />
* Overhead vertical spinner - kinetic energy overhead weapon - e.g. Battlebots heavyweight Sawblaze<br />
* Overhead drill<br />
<br />
=Full body weapons=<br />
'''Large portions of your bot, or even the entire bot, can be put into motion as a spinning weapon. These are tricky to build; it is crucial that the bot be perfectly balanced, with its weight evenly distributed, so that it doesn't lose control or tear itself apart.'''<br />
==Shell spinner==<br />
The armor / body of a shell spinner rotates around robot's internal components. When done correctly this weapon can provide 360-degrees of offence and defence which makes it an appealing option. There can be challenges with stability if the shell isn't properly balanced. Also shell spinners can not operate inverted; they will often have a curved bar coming out of the top to aid in self-righting.<br />
<br />
==Ring spinner==<br />
This type of bot has a round, steerable core surrounded by a spinning ring. It is similar to a shell-spinner in appearance but the spinner doesn't rotate on a central shaft. This approach does have the advantage of making it easier to drive the weapon with multiple motors but the integrity of the ring can be difficult to maintain upon impacts which often results in shell spinners stopping their spinning.<br />
<br />
==Meltybrain==<br />
The entire bot spins rapidly, but using computer-assisted controls, it can still be steered. See '''[[Melty Brain]]'''.<br />
<br />
==Thwackbot==<br />
Any of the above bots, but incorporating a hammer, or an arm with spikes, extending from the side of the bot. It is driven into position and then commanded to spin in place to create a circular zone in which other bots may be damaged. Since Thwackbots just spin in place, they typically require an opponent to drive into them. It is possible for thwackbots to drive towards an opponent perform a skid-and-spin manuver to hit them but these attacks typically have less power. Thwack bots don't qualify for events that require active weapons but if they include [[Melty_Brain|Meltybrain]] drive they will often qualify.<br />
<br />
==Full body flail==<br />
A variant of the thwackbot that incorporates one or more flails (like a mace, or a chain) which can be whipped around to cause damage. These are more difficult to operate, since the weight distribution of the weapon is not fixed.<br />
<br />
==Full body drum==<br />
<br />
<br />
=Hammer weapons=<br />
'''Hammers inflict destructive shock waves, dents, and puncture damage on opponents.'''<br />
<br />
==Impact/blunt==<br />
==Spike/piercing==<br />
==Horizontal==<br />
*Rare<br />
<br />
=Control weapons=<br />
'''Seize control of opponents and puncture or throw them for damage.'''<br />
==Clamp==<br />
*Dustpan<br />
==Suplex==<br />
==Crushers==<br />
*Mandibles<br />
*Spike/scorpion<br />
<br />
=Ramming weapons=<br />
'''Ramming weapons are intended to be driven toward opponents to cause damage.'''<br />
==Spear/piercing==<br />
==Plows==<br />
*Steering opponents<br />
*Articulation<br />
==Ramming design notes==<br />
# These weapons are only effective in bots with high acceleration, high speed, high traction, and very skilled drivers.<br />
<br />
=Other=<br />
'''There are other weapon types that are uncommon and/or not permitted in most event rules due to reasons of safety, liability, or arena durability.'''<br />
==Flamethrowers==<br />
Flame weapons can set fire to vulnerable pieces of opponents' bots, and can potentially cause over-temperature shutdown or damage to electronics. They are among the most spectacular weapons, even when ineffective due to defensive armor.<br />
<br />
Where permitted, flame weapons must follow strict build guidelines concerning fuels, pressurization and pressure containers, suitable valves and materials, duration of use, and many more details. If you are seriously thinking of using them, work closely with the event organizers and place yourself under the mentorship of a builder experienced in flame weapons.<br />
==Projectiles==<br />
*Cannon</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Kits&diff=667Kits2022-03-24T02:48:07Z<p>User: Adding an antweight kit</p>
<hr />
<div>==Robot Combat Kits==<br />
Many people don't have the fabrication or design experience to make a robot on their own so starting out with a kit is a great way to get into the sport. Be sure to check out your local event to see what weight-classes are supported. Make sure you know what is included in your kit. Most don't come with radios, batteries, or battery chargers.<br><br />
<br />
[[File:Viper_Kit.png|thumb|FingerTech Viper Antweight]]<br />
<strong>150g Kits</strong><br><br />
The [https://shop.bristolbotbuilders.com/product/antkit/ <strong>Bristol Bot Builders</strong>] kit has the parts you'll need to get started but you'll need to make your own chassis.<br><br />
[https://nutsandbots.co.uk/product-category/robots/ <strong>Nuts and Bots 150g kits</strong>] come in three flavors, a wedge, a flipper and a grabber. These kits are underweight giving you room to add armor or to customize them.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/spark-150g-combat-robot-kit <strong>Spark!</strong>] kit is an undercutting disk spinner design intended for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
[https://turnabot.com/ <strong>Turnabot</strong>] has several 3D printed non-destructive robots with lifters and grabbers. The kits come as parts that you can put together yourself or for a little more money, fully assembled. [https://turnabot.com/?product=slipper <strong>Slipper</strong>], a Lifter. [https://turnabot.com/?product=squeezy <strong>Squeezy</strong>], a Horizontal Grabber. [https://turnabot.com/?product=santis <strong>Santis</strong>] a Vertical Lifter-Grabber. [https://turnabot.com/?product=slapper <strong>Slapper</strong>], a Vertical Lifter-Grabber.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<strong>1lb Kits</strong><br><br />
The [https://radrobotkits.com/rad-robot-store/p/baby-nautiloid-kit <strong>Baby Nautiloid</strong>] is a new 2 wheel drive vertical spinner kit.<br> <br />
The [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-v2 <strong>FingerTech Viper</strong>] is a popular starting place. The Viper kit has [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-lifter-addon <strong>lifter</strong>] and both [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-v-spinner-addon <strong>vertical spinner</strong>] and [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-viper-h-spinner-addon <strong>horizontal spinner</strong>] add-ons which make it a great expandable option for new builders. <br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/candy_wasp-kit-package <strong>Candy Wasp</strong>] antweight kit from [https://botkits.com BotKits.com] isn't as flexible as the viper kit but it is super durable and more likely to survive a competition.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-hellraiser <strong>Hellraiser</strong>] is a well built drum kit but is for more intermediate builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-lobotomy <strong>Lobotomy</strong>] kit has an effective undercutter but is for intermediate builders.<br> <br />
The [https://kitbots.com/product.sc?productId=26&categoryId=1 <strong>Saifu</strong>] drum bot kit is for more advanced builders and has won many events. This is a great choice for builders who want a kit robot with a powerful weapon.<br><br />
The [https://www.battlerobotkit.com/product-page/battle-robot-kit-taserface <strong>Taserface</strong>] kit has a powerful vertical disk and is a good choice for intermediate builders who want a weapon bot.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/shock-1lb-combat-roobot-kit <strong>Shock!</strong>] kit is a powerful undercutting disk spinner design for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
<br><br />
<strong>3lb Kits</strong><br><br />
[[File:D2_Kit.jpg|thumb|D2 Beetle from BotKits]]<br />
[[File:Jolt Kit.jpg|thumb|Jolt! Kit from Absolute Chaos Robotics]]<br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/d2-combat-robot <strong>D2</strong>] kit is very durable and has won many events. Some builders don't like this kit because it is so competitive but it takes hours of practice to learn how to drive it well. <br><br />
The [https://www.botkits.com/collections/combat-robot-kits/products/mw1-combat-robot-chassis-kit <strong>MW1</strong>] kit is basically half a D2 kit and is designed for advanced builders who want to add a weapon onto the drivetrain.<br><br />
The [https://kitbots.com/product.sc?productId=19&categoryId=1 <strong>Weta</strong>] drum bot kit is a powerful beetleweight for more advanced builders who are interested in a weapon robot.<br><br />
The [https://www.endbots.com/products/vector-beetleweight-kit <strong>Vector</strong>] kit has a powerful horizontal spinner.<br><br />
The [https://absolutechaosrobotics.bigcartel.com/product/jolt-3lb-combat-robot-kit <strong>Jolt!</strong>] kit is a powerful undercutting disk spinner design for intermediate kit builders.<br><br />
The [https://www.golapse.xyz/product/smeetle <strong>Smeetleweight</strong>] kit is a wedge that looks to be difficult for opponents to avoid through high speed driving and an extremely wide design.<br><br />
The [https://www.owobotics.com/product/donkey-kit <strong>Team OgreKill "DONKEY"</strong>] kit is a solidly built wedge with a powerful brushless drive system.<br><br />
The [https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-beetle-beater-bot <strong>FingerTech BeaterBar Kit</strong>] is an advanced kit containing all of the materials to make a beater bar bot, but leaving it to the builder to cut and shape the materials to make the frame.<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<strong>Bigger Robot Kits</strong><br><br />
[http://www.battlekits.com/ <strong>BattleKits</strong>] aren't fully functional kits but are drive platforms for larger robots ranging from sixty pound lightweights to two hundred fifty pound Battlebots. You'll need to fashion your own wedge or weapon to make these bots ready for combat.<br></div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=3D_Printing&diff=6663D Printing2022-03-15T04:13:47Z<p>User: Added 150g mini-mammoth</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Original-prusa-i3-mk3s-3d-printer.jpg|thumb|Desktop 3D printer]]<br />
3D printers produce plastic parts under computer control. The process of 3D printing is especially useful for the smaller insect-class bots, where weight is a severe limitation to design. However, even Heavyweight-class builders use 3D printing to make composite reinforced components, custom compartment insulators, and wire guides. Keeping electrical parts and cables away from metal plates and sharp edges reduces the risk of damage and short circuits.<br />
<br />
3D Printing is widely used in one specialized division of combat robotics, the [[Plastic Antweights|Plastic Ants]] class, where the chassis and weapons (if any) must be made of plastic in order to qualify.<br />
<br />
If you don't own a 3D printer, you may be able to get help from your local library or makerspace, or from your fellow bot-builders. Some people will want to design their own bots, which requires knowledge of 3D modeling using a computer or app for the purpose. Others will choose to download a premade design (see below). Once you've got a bot design working to your satisfaction, you can print a supply of replacement plastic parts, which can be used for repairs after your bot becomes damaged.<br />
<br />
=Selecting a Printer=<br />
<br />
Selecting a printer for 3D printing a combat robot can be a big decision, and here are some factors to think about when purchasing your printer.<br />
<br />
==Budget==<br />
Desktop and office 3D Printers can range from as low as $150 to over $10,000 depending on their hardware, capabilities, build volume, and other factors. Here's a quick overview of what's available:<br />
*'''Budget-friendly/hobbyist 3D printers:''' Range from $150 - $750, normally limited in materials and build volume. These include machines like the Creality Ender 3 series, and will normally have a maximum nozzle temperature of 245-250° Celsius. These machines are meant for printing PLA, PETG, and ABS, but by replacing or modifying some components, they can print more advanced materials like Nylon and TPU.<br />
:Note: Some low-end crafting printers don't have a heated printing surface. These should be avoided, since they don't work with a variety of plastics.<br />
*'''Advanced materials printers:''' Range from $750 - $3,000, and are capable of printing materials like PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU and other flexible types, Nylon and nylon composites, and Polycarbonate blends with minimal or no aftermarket modifications. These will have a maximum nozzle temperature around 295-300° Celsius and can heat their print surface to 100° Celsius or more.<br />
:Better advanced printers have an enclosed print area to keep the temperature of the part consistent during printing. There are printable kits to enclose standard open-frame printers.<br />
*'''Engineering grade printers:''' These range from $3,000 - $10,000+, with few materials outside of their capabilities. These printers are often able to print not only advanced materials but also multiple materials using multiple extruders or multiple tool heads, allowing for even greater complexity. Multi-extrusion can allow for printing multi-color items (e.g. black and white), multi-material items (such as mixed PLA and PETG), or soluble support materials like PVA/BCOH.<br />
<br />
=Printable Filaments and Materials=<br />
The materials that a FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication]) 3D printer can extrude must melt at a given temperature, maintain a consistent flow of material through the nozzle, and solidify in a consistent fashion. These materials include thermoplastics, waxes, and even chocolate! With specialized printers it is possible to use such materials as ceramics, glass, and concrete.<br />
<br />
Most 3D prints in combat robotics will be made from rolls of plastics and plastic composites on an FDM printer. "Resin" printers are becoming more common in larger sizes at budget-friendly prices, and more options for resins are available to purchase on a regular basis.<br />
<br />
The list of common 3D printable plastics below proceeds roughly from weakest to strongest.<br />
===PLA===<br />
PLA is inexpensive, but brittle.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIH-HS-SScY] It is the most common 3D printing filament. It rarely warps in use and is great for tiny parts.[https://shop.prusa3d.com/fotky/PLA_TechSheet_ENG.pdf] It's a great starter material, and recommended for printing prototype parts. Many builders prefer other plastics, especially for their active weapons or armor. Pure PLA is made from cornstarch[https://all3dp.com/2/what-is-pla-plastic-material-properties/] and gives off a corn syrup odor which reminds some people of waffles.<br />
<br />
===PLA+===<br />
Various manufacturers offer "PLA+" and/or "Tough PLA," which are modified PLA filaments that are meant to be less brittle. With an acrylic additive, for instance, it may show much better impact resistance.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo] Inland and eSun claim their PLA+ products are 10x stronger than regular PLA.<br />
<br />
===PETG===<br />
PETG (a copolyester) is more heat resistant, more flexible, and less brittle than PLA.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo] It is well suited for 3D printing mechanical parts. Since it is more likely to flex under impact its resilience may be useful to the bot builder, but it is 2-3% heavier than PLA. Observe manufacturer's recommendations when printing, as it tends to stick very strongly to smooth print beds. You'll notice a fairly mild hot-plastic odor when printing.<br />
<br />
===ABS===<br />
ABS is a strong and reasonably impact-resistant material at a moderate price, but warps easily and smells worse while printing. Its low density makes it one of the lightest of all printable plastics (PLA is about 20% heavier for the exact same print). You'll probably need to print it in an enclosure for best results; this keeps its temperature even during printing, so that it only shrinks after printing instead of curling or warping during printing. Many hobbyists ventilate the enclosure to the outdoors with fan(s) due to the odor.<br />
<br />
===Nylon===<br />
Nylon is tough and flexible. Regular nylon is hygroscopic and must be kept in dry storage, or it will absorb moisture from the air and become spoiled after a few weeks. Consider buying a hybrid nylon material that doesn't require as much attention to storage.<br />
<br />
===PC===<br />
Polycarbonate is super strong - your robot arena walls are probably made from it! Many printers can't print it, though, because it must be heated to an extreme temperature (about 275°C/525°F).<br />
<br />
===CF Materials===<br />
Carbon-fiber reinforced materials are extremely tough, and ideal for combat robotics. These are usually polycarbonate or nylon with chopped fibers embedded inside. You should strongly consider using these when plastic parts are needed for beetleweight designs.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9hUcqsNJco] This material requires a hardened printing nozzle, as the carbon-fiber strands or particles are highly abrasive.<br />
<br />
=Tips and Best Practices=<br />
*Nearly all 3D printers can handle PLA and PLA+. Most other materials require printing onto a heated surface (the "print bed"). Check the specifications and instructions of your printer to find out what materials it can handle.<br />
*A basic limitation of 3D printed parts is that they can crack or break apart along layer lines, since they are made from layers of plastic. Generally, the tougher the plastic the more likely the layers will also hold together.<br />
*Pay attention to the orientation of parts on the print bed - consider orienting parts so that the direction that needs to be the strongest lies horizontal during printing.<br />
*You can make adjustments each time you print. Thicker walls (shells) and a higher percentage of infill add density and strength to your bot, but also increase weight. Remember to re-weigh your bot after changes have been made.<br />
<br />
=Robots you can Print=<br />
You can download and print robot designs from sites like [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] and [https://www.prusaprinters.org/ Prusaprinters]. Just 3D print the robot body and other provided parts, then assemble them with the working parts of the robot. Some have helpful instructions and buying suggestions for finishing the working parts; however, some have little or no guidance, and you will need some experience to try them.<br />
<br />
Below are links to 120 bot designs that have been shared by the robot building community. Limited consideration has been given to whether each of these is buildable, or will meet the stated [[RobotClasses|weight class]].<br />
<br />
==150g Combat Robots==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|-<br />
! Bot !! [[RobotClasses#Weight_Classes|Class]] !! Type !! Provided by !! ID # !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022477 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| 4WD Pusher<br />
|| ACE_ROBOTICS<br />
|| 3022477<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3186849 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Flipper<br />
|| emancarrillo<br />
|| 3186849<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3811105 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Hammer<br />
|| emancarrillo<br />
|| 3811105<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4094199 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| emancarrillo<br />
|| 4094199<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2435280 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Lifter<br />
|| Flaronk<br />
|| 2435280<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4743535 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Flipper<br />
|| JairEmia<br />
|| 4743535<br />
|| N20 powered<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4901799 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Hammer or Flipper<br />
|| JairEmia<br />
|| 4901799<br />
|| N20 powered<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103348 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Pusher<br />
|| beardedowen<br />
|| 2103348<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3906492 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Hammer<br />
|| Tom_Dreyfus<br />
|| 3906492<br />
|| Remixed<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4627536 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Suplex bot<br />
|| emancarillo<br />
|| 4627536<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4330363 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| Technick007<br />
|| 4330363<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2954423 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Plow<br />
|| Jhack<br />
|| 2954423<br />
|| Dozer with tracks<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168988 3D Amazon Depot]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| Drcameron<br />
|| 3168988<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3204827 A Bit Pushy]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Pusher<br />
|| FalconFPV<br />
|| 3204827<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341786 Absolutely Quackers]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Hammer<br />
|| Team_Panic<br />
|| 3341786<br />
|| Hammer duck<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022464 ACE]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Lifter<br />
|| ACE_ROBOTICS<br />
|| 3022464<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3933072 Additions for Unnamed]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Flipper<br />
|| AlexKorvin<br />
|| 3933072<br />
|| Based on 3186849<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3234339 Afterlife]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| johnszy<br />
|| 3234339<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168573 Aionia Timoria]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Drum spinner<br />
|| drcameron<br />
|| 3168573<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431621 A Little Obvious]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Angled spinner<br />
|| Team_Panic<br />
|| 3431621<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3815539 Ant Freeze V2]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| Zanbots<br />
|| 3815539<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3810730 Baby Shark]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| thesaxmachine<br />
|| 3810730<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2998633 Barq's Bites]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Flipper<br />
|| drcameron<br />
|| 2998633<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4616666 Big Flip]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Plow<br />
|| SiegelRacing<br />
|| 4616666<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4693024 Big Sup]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Suplex bot<br />
|| SiegelRacing<br />
|| 4693024<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805613 Blackspin]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Drum spinner<br />
|| JC2017<br />
|| 2805613<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2065860 Black Star]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| Ajaxjones<br />
|| 2065860<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341761 Blind Spot]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Dustpan bot<br />
|| Team_Panic<br />
|| 3341761<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812197 Blockhead]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Drum spinner<br />
|| earthwormjim<br />
|| 2812197<br />
|| Large beater bar<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4623536 Bulldog]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Vertical spinner<br />
|| Bribro12<br />
|| 4623536<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3972258 Brutus]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Drum spinner<br />
|| AlexKorvin<br />
|| 3972258<br />
|| Overweight (see link)<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4182360 Brutus Remix]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Drum spinner<br />
|| cannon3d<br />
|| 4182360<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4338982 Brutus Mk2]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| AlexKorvin<br />
|| 4338982<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3195078 Crabulon]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Shufflebot<br />
|| Drogg<br />
|| 3195078<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5240385 Drum Battlebot]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Drum spinner<br />
|| emancarrillo<br />
|| 5240385<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1215069 Dynamo]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| Pyrotron<br />
|| 1215069<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3752142 escoBAR]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| ninja_drift<br />
|| 3752142<br />
|| based on Shrapnel<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3039761 Firestorm 125%]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Flipper<br />
|| FalconFPV<br />
|| 3039761<br />
|| 32mm wheel/N20 version<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2927678 Firestorm Micro]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Flipper<br />
|| AdamDC<br />
|| 2927678<br />
|| N20 version<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1665299 Firestorm (Original)]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Flipper<br />
|| alexmordue<br />
|| 1665299<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5136959 Fork Fairy]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| JairEmia<br />
|| 5136959<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5216968 Fork Wedge]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Battlebot<br />
|| emancarillo<br />
|| 4216968<br />
|| Overweight (see link)<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4352090 Front Flip]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Flipper<br />
|| Fryddog<br />
|| 4352090<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4268191 Front Flipper]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Flipper<br />
|| emancarrillo<br />
|| 4268191<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281243 Grabbybot]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Grabber/Lifter<br />
|| emancarillo<br />
|| 4281243<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3323762 Graboid]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Grabber<br />
|| JC2017<br />
|| 3323762<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4868890 Grabthar]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Modular (Multi)<br />
|| Aldwin<br />
|| 4868890<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3707013 Guestimate]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| Team_Panic<br />
|| 3707013<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3070730 Gyrator]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| CNCROBOTICS<br />
|| 3070730<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3164801 Gyrator v3]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| CNCROBOTICS<br />
|| 3164801<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/7786-halloween-robot Halloween Pumpkin]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Pusher<br />
|| NoLiver92<br />
|| <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5154492 Hampire]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Thwackbot<br />
|| Baker01t<br />
|| 5154492<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4240015 Hello Trouble]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Bar spinner<br />
|| Stonecreekturnings<br />
|| 4240015<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4325008 HugsEy]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Grabber/Lifter<br />
|| SiegelRacing<br />
|| 4325008<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1816540 Inspired by Carbide]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| alexmordue<br />
|| 1816540<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4308902 Kraken]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Crusher<br />
|| emancarrillo<br />
|| 4308902<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2989490 Loader]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| HarryMakesThings<br />
|| 2989490<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4866523 LowMow]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Undercutter<br />
|| JC2017<br />
|| 4866523<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2945303 Mega London]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Lifter<br />
|| thesaxmachine<br />
|| 2945303<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341738 Microdot]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Triple wedge<br />
|| Team_Panic<br />
|| 3341738<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-wide-triple-wedge-microdot-upgraded-116626 Microdot Updated]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Triple wedge<br />
|| Team_Panic<br />
|| <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022469 Mini Emoji]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Lifter<br />
|| ACE_ROBOTICS<br />
|| 3022469<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5318276 Mini Mammoth]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Spin-Lifter<br />
|| JairEmia <br />
|| 5318276<br />
||<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4844195 Netsplit]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| xanderstrike<br />
|| 4844195<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2022778 Plover]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| aldwin<br />
|| 2022778<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1800795 Rollcage]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| fryddog<br />
|| 1800795<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4297430 Scrapper]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| Fryddog<br />
|| 4297430<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4789416 Servo Drive]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Hammer<br />
|| WitchdoctorbyKO<br />
|| 4789416<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1692075 Shrapnel]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Spinner<br />
|| Fryddog<br />
|| 1692075<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115202 Shrapnel Mk3]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Spinner<br />
|| Fryddog<br />
|| 3115202<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168636 Shredder]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Spinner<br />
|| drcameron<br />
|| 3168636<br />
|| based on Shrapnel<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168700 Siren]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Drum spinner<br />
|| drcameron<br />
|| 3168700<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054276 Slightly Crude]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| Team_Panic<br />
|| 2054276<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4311761 Spike]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| Fryddog<br />
|| 4311761<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3184758 Spooky]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| BLRobotics27<br />
|| 3184758<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4567470 Squeezy]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Grabber/Lifter<br />
|| SiegelRacing<br />
|| 4567470<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3173115 UnderScore]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| FalconFPV<br />
|| 3173115<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5179359 UnderScore Remix]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| Printer239<br />
|| 5179359<br />
|| Remix for 1806 motor<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3099273 Upchuck]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Vertical spinner<br />
|| FalconFPV<br />
|| 3099273<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2927358 Vlad Micro]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Lifter<br />
|| AdamDC<br />
|| 2927358<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2946703 Wedge of Doom]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| FalconFPV<br />
|| 2946703<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3695273 White Fang]<br />
|| 150g<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| Insertbattlebotsjokehere<br />
|| 3695273<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==All other weight classes==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|-<br />
! Bot !! [[RobotClasses#Weight_Classes|Class]] !! Type !! Provided by !! ID # !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2374705 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| tbeg<br />
|| 2374705<br />
|| Mk1<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2036647 (Unnamed)]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Vertical spinner<br />
|| kkbittle<br />
|| 2036647<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3908901 3DAD]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| drcameron<br />
|| 3908901<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723564 4WD Wedge]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| TeamLiftoff<br />
|| 4723564<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3146568 Backlash]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| clingmanr<br />
|| 3146568<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3111090 Blockhead remix]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Paddle spinner<br />
|| shultiskevin<br />
|| 3111090<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4075681 Blue Screen of Death]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| chrismik<br />
|| 4075681<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4885071 CheeseWej]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| Teamd20<br />
|| 4885071<br />
|| Plastic Ant<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:766609 Danger Zone]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Drum spinner<br />
|| altapowderdog<br />
|| 766609<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3297944 Doom Stone V1]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Vertical spinner<br />
|| kmcelroy<br />
|| 3297944<br />
|| Plastic Ant<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4800332 Eureka]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| Teamd20<br />
|| 4800332<br />
|| Plastic Ant<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2513990 FidgetBot]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| billywoodworks<br />
|| 2513990<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3040924 Fidget Stone]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| Guggleshyena<br />
|| 3040924<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3160354 Flapjack]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Drum spinner<br />
|| shultiskevin<br />
|| 3160354<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3793747 Future Killer]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Vertical drum<br />
|| altapowderdog<br />
|| 3793747<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675230 Half-SMEEEEEEEEEEEE]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Long split wedge<br />
|| TheN00b<br />
|| 4675230<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3188358 HUGElet]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Vertical spinner<br />
|| Crankymuffin<br />
|| 3188358<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4910548 LifeSteal]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| Posey<br />
|| 4910548<br />
|| Plastic Ant<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88678-3d-printed-verticle-disc-spinner-combat-robot Mega Looon V1]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Vertical spinner<br />
|| thesaxmachine<br />
|| <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2828234 MI]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Full-body spinner<br />
|| RattlerRobotics<br />
|| 2828234<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3170974 Mr. Roomba]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Ring spinner<br />
|| Kylellrc<br />
|| 3170974<br />
|| Plastic Ant<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1401358 Mr. Twister]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Vertical spinner<br />
|| AdamDC<br />
|| 1401358<br />
|| Plastic Ant option<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2813722 Plastique]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Shell spinner<br />
|| AdamDC<br />
|| 2813722<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3962507 Simple Ant Weight Wedge]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| mightygrom<br />
|| 3962507<br />
|| Demobot<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3819420 Tiger Shark V5]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| thesaxmachine<br />
|| 3819420<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88673-antweight-horizontal-bar-spinner-tiger-shark-v6 Tiger Shark V6]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| thesaxmachine<br />
|| <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/146275-bite-force-tribute-3d-printed-1lb-combat-robot Tribute to Bite Force]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Vertical spinner<br />
|| Tom Lum<br />
|| <br />
|| Plastic Ant<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843171 WejFu]<br />
|| 1lb<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| Teamd20<br />
|| 4843171<br />
|| Plastic Ant<br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88674-mega-don-g-version-2-beetle-weight-combat-robot Mega Don G V2]<br />
|| 3lb<br />
|| Plow<br />
|| thesaxmachine<br />
|| <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3731962 Munchkin]<br />
|| 3lb<br />
|| Drum spinner<br />
|| Creative_Instigation<br />
|| 3731962<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3179067 Rapid Unscheduled Disassembly Mk6]<br />
|| 3lb<br />
|| Undercutter spinner<br />
|| TeamMagicalLipoFire<br />
|| 3179067<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3917039 Vector]<br />
|| 3lb<br />
|| Horizontal spinner<br />
|| Endbots<br />
|| 3917039<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4741317 Vertex]<br />
|| 3lb<br />
|| Vertical spinner<br />
|| Proxy303<br />
|| 4741317<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4241833 Vertigo]<br />
|| 3lb<br />
|| Vertical spinner<br />
|| Insertbattlebotsjokehere<br />
|| 4241833<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4232399 Deadlift]<br />
|| 1.5kg<br />
|| Lifter<br />
|| Noursicus<br />
|| 4232399<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4230265 Plastic Donk]<br />
|| 1.5kg<br />
|| Wedge<br />
|| Noursicus<br />
|| 4230265<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5022333 Razor]<br />
|| 1.5kg<br />
|| Horizontal saw<br />
|| AlexKorvin<br />
|| 5022333<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4967207 Wall Chaser]<br />
|| 1.5kg<br />
|| Vertical saw<br />
|| AlexKorvin<br />
|| 4967207<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3160993 Mars Attacks (itself)]<br />
|| unknown<br />
|| Shell spinner<br />
|| shultiskevin<br />
|| 3160993<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|| [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1688510 Combat Robot 2.0]<br />
|| unknown<br />
|| Drum spinner<br />
|| altapowderdog<br />
|| 1688510<br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Accessories you can Print=<br />
The following is a small selection of useful accessories for robot combat, most of which can be 3D printed. You might find robot parts that you need here, but this list is also a great starting point for design ideas and improvements for new bots as well.<br />
<br />
==Motors and Drive==<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4856995 22mm Planetary Gear Motor Mount for Beetleweight Combat Robots]<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4755831 Brushless Adapter for 1103 Motor and N20 Gearbox]<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50095 Micro metal gear motor housing]<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3131875 16t fingertech pully 3.175mm shaft] Belt pulley<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3411211 Double N20 motor mount]<br />
<br />
==Hubs and Wheels==<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3955183 Fingertech/Liteflite Foam Wheel Hubs 3mm]<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4188610 Lynxmotion Universal Hub 4mm] (wheel hub)<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3275522 Antweight (150g) combat robot silicone wheels] Hubs, wheels, and molds for making your own tires out of silicone. Cf. [https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=team+panic+silicone these videos].<br />
<br />
*[https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-comolded-silicone-wheels-for-150g-combat-robot-118223 Comolded Silicone Wheels for 150g combat robot] Newer version of the above.<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3370358 Combat Robot Wheel Hub] Hubs for 2" foam wheels with 15mm diameter center.<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1897320 Banebot Wheel Hex Hub] Substitute for Banebots aluminum hex hub with timing belt option for 4WD bots.<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3322834 N20 Motor - Lego Axle] Adapts N20 D-shaft to drive Lego cross shaft wheels.<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3081306 Wheels for ant weight Battle Bot] Wheels for use with foam strip material<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3284612 3mm D shaft hub Wheel] Wheels for Lego #3483 tires<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3155710 N20 wheel hub] Hubs for cheap foam wheels<br />
<br />
==Electrical==<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3081171 Combat Robot Power Switch]<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3226776 Screw Power switch] (low current 4-40 screw)<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4676093 Screw Power Switch] (metric, M3 screw)<br />
<br />
==Weapons==<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3063121 2 tooth plastic ant blade]<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1269600 Blade for Viper Kit from Fingertech Robotics] Short blade for Viper spinner kit<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1272058 Slightly Larger Blade for ViperKit From Fingertech Robotics] Longer blade for Viper spinner kit<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2865912 Disc for ComBot Vertical Spinners] 50mm disc with 75mm teeth<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3061702 weapon bar 80mm & 60mm for 150gram combat robot]<br />
<br />
==Arenas==<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3520332 6' x 6' Robot Combat Arena] (trailer mounted)</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Robot_Combat_League&diff=665Robot Combat League2022-03-13T01:26:41Z<p>User: Fixing some grammer</p>
<hr />
<div>== Robot Combat League ==<br />
Robot Combat is not an offical organizing body for Robot Combat. Although most events in the League use the [[SPARC rule set|http://sparc.tools/]] or some varient, each event participating in the league is independent and can run their event as they see fit as long as they fit into a very broad set of guidelines. Starting in March 2022, more than 30 independent events have agreed to use the League event results tracking system that will help determine which bots are the top competitors. <br><br />
<br />
==Why the Robot Combat League doesn't use the SPARC Botrank system==<br />
Although the [http://sparc.tools/BotRank/index.php SPARC Botrank] system made an attempt at tracking how well robots performed, their system had several shortcomings. <br />
* The primary issue is that the system used to calculate scores is greatly influenced by the number of events a bot as competed in which favored bots that competed a lot rather than bots that placed highly in events. This led to situations where a bot that competed and performed 'ok' in a half dozen events would be ranked higher than a robot that competed in and won two events.<br />
* Another issue with the [http://sparc.tools/BotRank/index.php SPARC Botrank] system, is that the calculations are done on an 18 month rolling period. Having no defined seasons or periods where rankings would be set makes its calcuations ever changing and difficult to evaluate. <br />
* The SPARC Botrank system didn't have a way to disambiguate robots with the same name. Common robot names like 'Hazard' made the results unreliable.<br><br />
<br />
==When is the league season?==<br />
The season starts the first day of March and ends on the last day of February. With the 2022 season being the first, adjustments to the season dates may be made if needed. Event data prior to March 2022 isn't complete so take historical rankings with a grain of salt.<br />
<br />
==What weight classes will be included?==<br />
Currently, ranks are calculated for the most popular weight classes: 150g, 1lb, 1lb-plastic, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb, and 30sportsman robots. If additional robot-classes become popular and events want to include them in the League, the ranked classes may be expanded.<br />
<br />
==How are rankings determined?==<br />
Robots earn points by how highly they place at an event. A robot's season total is taken from their top 3 - highest point events. <br><br />
How are points calculated?<br />
Points are determined by how well a robot places in a competition and is weighted by the number of robots competing. The exact calculations to determine a robots score can be [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GGMDljRZXsq9HCCjCAIsGpup90LLsPtqhkUiPwJRPWY/edit#gid=0 viewed on this calculator]. <br />
<br />
==[https://www.robotcombatevents.com/types Robot Combat League Ranks]==</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Events&diff=663Events2022-03-07T06:56:38Z<p>User: /* Hosting Events */ added a bit of detail</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:WAR_Sportsman.jpg|thumb|Sportsman Rumble at WAR]]<br />
=Finding Events=<br />
Most events are listed on the [https://robotcombatevents.com RobotCombatEvents] website. Use the page's [https://www.robotcombatevents.com/searches/new Search] feature and a [https://www.robotcombatevents.com/event_map Map View] to search for events by location; perhaps there's one near you! If you don't see any close by, search for past events to learn which organizations operate nearby, and watch for their next event to be listed.<br />
<br />
=Hosting Events=<br />
So you've got the robot combat bug and you want to host an event. There are a lot of things involved, so before you try it you should attend one to learn how they are run. If you are sure you want to make a poor life choice and host your own event, head over to [http://sparc.tools Sparc.Tools] for a treasure trove of information. The site has guidelines on [http://sparc.tools/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/SPARC_Tournament_Procedures_v1.1.pdf Tournament Procedures], [http://sparc.tools/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/SPARC_Match_Rules_v1.2.pdf Match Rules], [http://sparc.tools/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/SPARC_Judging_Guidelines_v1.1.pdf Judging Guidelines], and [http://sparc.tools/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/SPARC_Arena_Construction_Best_Practices_v1.0.pdf Arena Construction]. Once you've read everything then you need to think about where you'll store the arena, how it will be transported, where you will hold your events, and how will you get help running them. It's a big commitment and if you are ready to do it the rewards can be terrific but know what you are getting yourself into. <br><br><br />
There are some additional resources for event organizers. There are a lot of best-practices on how to prepare for an event, set things up so they run smoothly and avoid common pitfalls. If you are serious about starting an event (it doesn't need to be a big event), send an email to robotcombatevents@gmail.com to be put into contact with other organizers.<br />
<br />
=Current Event Clubs=<br />
Here is a partial list of robot combat events (click arrows on column headings to sort by name, location, or weight class). These are clubs, organizations and even individuals putting on events worldwide. Many hold multiple events each year. In all cases they should be thanked! Most use either the [[Rules|SPARC or FRA rules]], but if you are [[GettingStarted|planning on competing]], check with each event's organizer for the specific rules they will use.<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|+ Event Organizations<br />
|-<br />
! Event !! State !! City !! Country !! Supported [[RobotClasses|Classes]]<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/AdelaideRobotCombat/permalink/2049861968618530/ Adelaide Robot Combat] || South Australia || Adelaide || AU || 150g<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/alburywodogarobotbattles/ Albury Wodogaro Robot Battles] || New South Wales || Albury || AU || 150g<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.angryroosterrobotics.com/ Angry Rooster Robotics] || Alabama || Huntsville || USA ||1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://antlog.garya.org.uk/ Antweight World Series] || England, occasionally others || Touring event - many locations || UK, occasionally others ||150g<br />
|-<br />
| [http://azroboticcombat.com/ Arizona Robotic Combat] || Arizona || Phoenix || USA ||150g, 1lb 1lb-Plastic, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/2172601139696740 Backwoods Combat Robots] || Tennessee || Chapel Hill || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.battlebots.com/ Battlebots] || California ||Los Angeles || USA || 250lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057054446012 Bay Area Robotic Combat] || California || Richmond || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/Bayside-Robotics-104627878106463/ Bayside Robotics] || Delaware ||Newark || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/Beetleweight/ BeetleBelt] || England || Burgess Hill || UK || 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://botgeddon.com/ Bot'Geddon] || California || Rocklin || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.botbrawl.ca/ Bot Brawl] || Ontario || Mississauga || CA || 1lb, 3lb, 30lb-Sumo, 150-Sumo<br />
|-<br />
| [http://antlog.garya.org.uk/ Bot Fest] || England || Liverpool || UK || 150g<br />
|-<br />
| [https://bristolbotbuilders.com/events.html Bristol Bot Builders] || England || Bristol || UK || 150g, 3lb, 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/Budget-Bot-Builders-112263420944455 Budget Bot Builders] || Colorado || Colorado Springs || USA || 150g<br />
|-<br />
| [https://bugglebots.com/ BuggleBots] || England || Bristol || UK || 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.carolinacombat.com/ Carolina Combat Robots] || North Carolina || Hickory || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.circpeoria.org/ Central Illinois Robotics Club] || Illinois || Peoria || USA || 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/ColoradoCombatRobotics Colorado Combat Robotics] || Colorado || Denver || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb, 30lb-Sportsman<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/CombatRobotNZ Combat Robotics NZ] || Auckland || Grafton || NZ || 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/437521800412767/ Combat Robots of Oklahoma] || Oklahoma || Tulsa || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://athena.ecs.csus.edu/~comprobo/Events.html Competitive Robotics at Sacramento State] || California || Sacramento || USA || 1lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.dutchrobotgames.nl/ Dutch Robot Games] || Gelderland || Ulft || NL || 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://mad-metal-machines.de/ German Roboteers Association] || Lower Saxony || Hannover || DE || 150g, 1lb, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.hacr.us/ Houston Area Combat Robotics] || Texas || Houston || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://ipswichroboticssportsgroup.wordpress.com Ipswich Robotics Sport Group] || Queensland || Brisbane || AU || 150g, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://makerspacect.com/makerbattle/ MakerspaceCT] || Connecticut || Hartford || USA || 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://macrobot.us/ Macrobot.us] || Maryland || Baltimore || USA || 1lb-Plastic<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/events/216270486988808/ Melbourne Combat Robotics] || Victoria || Melbourne || AU || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.mtras.com/ Middle Tennessee Robotics Art Society] || Tennessee || Nashville || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://midwestrobotcombat.com/ Midwest Robot Combat Association (MRCA)] || Milwaukee || Wisconsin || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| Minnesota Combat Robotics || Minnesota || Eagan || USA || 150g, 1lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/missourirobotfights/ Missouri Robot Fights] || Missouri || Joplin || USA || 1lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://gonrl.org National Robotics League] || Various || Various || USA || 15lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.nerc.us North East Robotics Club] || Pennsylvania || Harrisburg || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb, 30lb-Sportsman<br />
|-<br />
| [https://50day.io/mediawiki/index.php/Norwalk_Havoc_Robot_League Norwalk Havoc Robot League] || Connecticut || Norwalk || USA || 3lb, 12lb, 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.ohiorobotclub.com/ Ohio Robotics Club] || Ohio || Sandusky || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb, 6lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.osubattlebots.org/ Oregon State Combat Robotics] || Oregon || Corvallis || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/QueenslandRoboticsSportsClub Queensland Robotics Sports Club] || Queensland || - || AU || -<br />
|-<br />
| [https://events.robocore.net/ RoboCore] || Minas Gerais || Santa Rita do Sapucaí || BR || 150g, 1lb, 3lb, 30lb, 60lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/RobodojoUK/ RoboDojo] || England || York || UK || 150g, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.robotbattles.com/ Robot Battles] || Georgia || Atlanta || USA || 1lb, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.makemia.com/robot-riot Robot Riot] || Florida || West Palm Beach || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://robotruckus.org/ Robot Ruckus] || Florida || Orlando || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb, 220lb-Sportsman<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.robowars.org/ Robowars Australia] || Queensland || Brisbane || AU || 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://kilobots.com/ Saskatoon Combat Robotics Club] || Saskatchewan || Saskatoon || CA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/smashbotz Smashbotz] || California || Los Angeles || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb, 12lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/640098953444052 Southern California Attack Robotics] || California || Walnut || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb, 12lb, 15lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://texasrobotcombat.com/ Texas Robot Combat] || Texas || Dallas || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.utahcombatrobotics.com/ Utah Combat Robotics] || Utah || Salt Lake City || USA || 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://vegascombatrobotics.com/ Vegas Combat Robotics] || Nevada || Las Vegas || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://westernalliedrobotics.com Western Allied Robotics] || Washington || Seattle || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb-Sportsman<br />
|-<br />
| [https://https://discord.gg/hzvM5zQURg Wisconsin Robot Combat] || Wisconsin || Oconomowoc || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Past Event Pages==<br />
These events are no longer active<br />
* [https://robogames.net Robogames: 150g to 220lb and more in the San Francisco Bay region]<br />
* [https://botblast.webs.com/ Bot Blast: 1lb and 3lb in Bloomburg Pennsylvania]</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=660Main Page2022-02-27T18:37:38Z<p>User: Added Link</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Robogames_Arena.jpg|thumb|Robogames Arena]]<br />
<br />
== Robot Combat ==<br />
<strong> Welcome to the Robot Combat Wiki </strong> <br><br />
The goal of this Wiki is to have a single location that Robot Combat enthusiasts can come to find the information they are looking for. Like all Wikis, some content will be stored here while much of it will be links out to sources. Please be patient, it will take a while for the Wiki to build content. If there is something you'd like to know and you don't see a page for it, go ahead and create one. Editing some pages will be limited to known contributors but if you feel something should be changed or updated let us know or show that you can be a trusted contributor.<br><br />
<br />
<strong>Stay Safe!</strong><br><br />
Some areas (like building flame throwers) are best left up to experts and pages dedicated to these areas will provide a general overview but we won't give step-by-step instructions on how to make things. We don't want people accidentally hurting themselves.<br />
<br />
== RobotCombatWiki Categories ==<br />
* [[GettingStarted|Getting Started]]<br />
* [[Rules]]<br />
* [[Events]]<br />
* [[RobotClasses|Robot Classes]]<br />
* [[Robot_Combat_League|Robot Combat League]]<br />
* [[RobotCommunity|Communities]]<br />
* [[Robots|Teams and Robots]]<br />
* [[Kits]]<br />
* [[Weapons]]<br />
<br />
== Component Parts ==<br />
* [[Batteries]]<br />
* [[Battery eliminator circuit (BEC)]]<br />
* [[Connectors]]<br />
* [[ESCs|Electronic Speed Controllers]]<br />
* [[Magnets]]<br />
* [[Motors]]<br />
* [[Radios]]<br />
* [[Servos]]<br />
* [[Switches]]<br />
<br />
Consult the [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software.<br />
<br />
== Getting started with MediaWiki ==<br />
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list]<br />
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ]<br />
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list]<br />
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language]<br />
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Combating_spam Learn how to combat spam on your wiki]</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Robot_Combat_League&diff=659Robot Combat League2022-02-27T18:25:40Z<p>User: Some edits</p>
<hr />
<div>== Robot Combat League ==<br />
Robot Combat is not have an offical organizing body. Although most events use the [[SPARC rules|http://sparc.tools/]] or some varient of them, each event participating in the league is independent and can run their event as they see fit as long as they fit into a very broad set of guidelines. Starting in March 2022, more than 30 independent events have agreed to use the league event results tracking system that will help determine which bots are the top competitors. <br><br />
<br />
==Why the Robot Combat League doesn't use the SPARC Botrank system==<br />
Although the [http://sparc.tools/BotRank/index.php SPARC Botrank] system made an attempt at tracking how well robots performed, their system had several shortcomings. <br />
* The primary issue is that the system used to calculate scores is greatly influenced by the number of events a bot as competed in which favored bots that competed a lot rather than bots that placed highly in events. This led to situations where a bot that competed and performed 'ok' in a half dozen events would be ranked higher than a robot that competed in and won two events.<br />
* Another issue with the [http://sparc.tools/BotRank/index.php SPARC Botrank] system, is that the calculations are done on an 18 month rolling period. Having no defined seasons or periods where rankings would be set makes its calcuations ever changing and difficult to evaluate. <br />
* The SPARC Botrank system didn't have a way to disambiguate robots with the same name. Common robot names like 'Hazard' made the results unreliable.<br><br />
<br />
==When is the league season?==<br />
The season starts the first day of March and ends on the last day of February. Event data prior to March 2022 isn't complete so take historical rankings with a grain of salt.<br />
<br />
==What weight classes will be included?==<br />
Currently, ranks are calculated for the most popular weight classes: 150g, 1lb, 1lb-plastic, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb, and 30sportsman robots. If additional robot-classes become popular, the ranked classes may be expanded.<br />
<br />
==How are rankings determined?==<br />
Robots earn points by how highly they place at an event. A robot's season total is taken from their top 3 - highest point events. <br><br />
How are points calculated?<br />
Points are determined by how well a robot places in a competition and is weighted by the number of robots competing. The exact calculations to determine a robots score can be [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GGMDljRZXsq9HCCjCAIsGpup90LLsPtqhkUiPwJRPWY/edit#gid=0 viewed on this calculator]. <br />
<br />
==[https://www.robotcombatevents.com/types Robot Combat League Ranks]==</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Robot_Combat_League&diff=656Robot Combat League2022-02-21T01:51:11Z<p>User: Starting this page - needs more details</p>
<hr />
<div>== Robot Combat League ==<br />
Robot Combat does not have an offical organizing body. Although most events use the [[SPARC rules|http://sparc.tools/]] or some varient of them, each event is independent and can run their event as they see fit. Starting in March 2022, more than 30 independent events have agreed to an event results tracking system that will help determine which bots are the top competitors. <br><br />
==Why the Robot Combat League doesn't use the SPARC Botrank system==<br />
Although the [http://sparc.tools/BotRank/index.php SPARC Botrank] system made an attempt at tracking how well robots performed,their system had several shortcomings. <br />
* The primary issue is that the system used to calculate scores is greatly influenced by the number of events a bot as competed in which favored bots that competed a lot rather than bots that placed highly in events. <br />
* Other issues include the [http://sparc.tools/BotRank/index.php SPARC Botrank] system being based on a on a rolling 18 month period which made it difficult to evaluate when the results should be evaluated. <br />
* The SPARC Botrank system didn't have a way to disambiguate robots with the same name. Common names like 'Hazard' made the results unreliable. <br><br />
<br />
==When is the league season?==<br />
The season starts the first day of March and ends on the last day of February. Event data prior to March 2022 isn't complete so take historical rankings with a grain of salt.<br />
<br />
==What weight classes will be included?==<br />
Currently, ranks are calculated for the most popular weight classes: 150g, 1lb, 1lb-plastic, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb, and 30sportsman robots.<br />
<br />
==How are rankings determined?==<br />
Robots earn points by placing in events. A robot's season total is taken from their top 3 events. <br><br />
How are points calculated?<br />
Points are determined by how well a robot places in a competition and is weighted by the number of robots competing. The exact calculations to determine a robots score can be [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GGMDljRZXsq9HCCjCAIsGpup90LLsPtqhkUiPwJRPWY/edit#gid=0 viewed on this calculator]. <br />
<br />
==[https://www.robotcombatevents.com/types Robot Combat League Ranks]==</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Speed_Reduction&diff=648Speed Reduction2022-02-11T05:33:15Z<p>User: /* Friction */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Optimizing Speed ==<br />
For nearly all applications, motors spin faster than is optimal. Although speed can be important, in most cases the added torque gained via speed reduction is needed to get the performance you are looking for.<br />
=== Optimizing Drive Speed ===<br />
How fast should you be? Speed vs. Pushing<br />
Learning to drive<br />
Robotic Legend has created a [https://roboticlegends.org/buildingtips/drivesystems/how-to-calculate-speed-based-on-wheel-speed-tire-diameter/ nice tutorial on how to calculate speed]. <br />
<br />
=== Optimizing Weapon Speed ===<br />
'''Spin up time''' is as important, if not more important than how fast a spinning weapon spins at top speed. If your weapon takes too long to spin up, an aggressive opponent will make contact with your slow moving weapon without taking damage. Typically you want to be able to reach 90% of your top speed in 3 seconds or less. Quick spin up times can be even more important in the small weight classes where small arenas mean you are never far from your opponent. <br />
<br />
In some smaller robot classes that can get away with direct drives for their weapons but typically the motor shaft won't be robust enough to survive weapon impacts. In most larger robots and many small ones, direct drive weapons are too fragile and you will want to transfer the motor speed to a weapon shaft via gears, belts, or chains. This transfer of power from the motor to the weapon-shaft is an opportunity to adjust the weapon speed to find the right balance between spin-up time and top speed.<br />
<br><br />
===Top speed===<br />
'''Faster is always better''' isn't always true. Although high speed is needed to make the robots weapon destructive, spinning the weapon too fast has some downsides. Gyroscopic forces can make turning the robot difficult, and some weapon designs like drumbs or disks may have difficulty 'biting' into an opponent. Also, some events or robot-classes such as sportsman robots may have rule limitations on weapon top-speed.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
== Gears ==<br />
Gears are wheels with teeth that slot together. When one gear is turned the other one turns as well. If the gears are of different sizes, they can be used to increase the power of a turning force. The smaller wheel turns more quickly but with less force, while the bigger one turns more slowly with more force. Although rarely used in weapons, gears are a popular choice with drive systems as they come in a variety of sizes and configurations. <br><br />
Pros: Gears transfer power efficiently. <br><br />
Pros: Gears can be arranged to take up very little space inside a robot. <br><br />
Cons: The build quality of inexpensive gearboxes rarely hold up in combat robots. <br><br />
Cons: Gears are heavy. <br><br />
<br />
== Chains ==<br />
A Roller Chain, known as the drive chain or transmission chain, passing over a sprocket gear, with the teeth of the gear meshing with the holes in the links of the chain.<br />
<br><br />
Pro: Chains are a highly efficient way to transfer power. <br><br />
Pro: Physically strong. <br><br />
Cons: Often requir exact spacing or tensioners to keep them on their sprockets. <br><br />
Cons: Chains are relatively heavy. <br><br />
<br />
== Belts ==<br />
Drive belts use friction to operate. Tension is applied to the belt which causes friction between the belt and the pulleys that it's installed around. Some belts and pulleys have 'teeth' or ridges to increase friction and keep their motion in synch. <br><br />
Pros: Belts are a light-weight solution for transfering power. <br><br />
Pros: Belts come in a wide variety of sizes and styles making them suitible for many designs. <br><br />
Cons: Belts can break in high energy applications. <br><br />
Cons: Belts can loosen over time which reduces their effectiveness. <br><br />
<br />
== Friction ==<br />
Friction drive is a system that depends upon friction between moving parts in contact to transmit motion. Often a wheel is directly attached to a drive motor which is then pressed against another rotatiting part to impart motion.<br><br />
Pros: Friction can be simple to impliment <br><br />
Pros: Friction drive can be light weight since it doesn't require heavy parts like gears or sprockets or chains.<br><br />
Cons: Maintaining the right level of friction can b challenging. <br><br />
Cons: Friction drive wheels can wear out quickly. <br></div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Speed_Reduction&diff=647Speed Reduction2022-02-10T04:46:08Z<p>User: /* Gears */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Optimizing Speed ==<br />
For nearly all applications, motors spin faster than is optimal. Although speed can be important, in most cases the added torque gained via speed reduction is needed to get the performance you are looking for.<br />
=== Optimizing Drive Speed ===<br />
How fast should you be? Speed vs. Pushing<br />
Learning to drive<br />
Robotic Legend has created a [https://roboticlegends.org/buildingtips/drivesystems/how-to-calculate-speed-based-on-wheel-speed-tire-diameter/ nice tutorial on how to calculate speed]. <br />
<br />
=== Optimizing Weapon Speed ===<br />
'''Spin up time''' is as important, if not more important than how fast a spinning weapon spins at top speed. If your weapon takes too long to spin up, an aggressive opponent will make contact with your slow moving weapon without taking damage. Typically you want to be able to reach 90% of your top speed in 3 seconds or less. Quick spin up times can be even more important in the small weight classes where small arenas mean you are never far from your opponent. <br />
<br />
In some smaller robot classes that can get away with direct drives for their weapons but typically the motor shaft won't be robust enough to survive weapon impacts. In most larger robots and many small ones, direct drive weapons are too fragile and you will want to transfer the motor speed to a weapon shaft via gears, belts, or chains. This transfer of power from the motor to the weapon-shaft is an opportunity to adjust the weapon speed to find the right balance between spin-up time and top speed.<br />
<br><br />
===Top speed===<br />
'''Faster is always better''' isn't always true. Although high speed is needed to make the robots weapon destructive, spinning the weapon too fast has some downsides. Gyroscopic forces can make turning the robot difficult, and some weapon designs like drumbs or disks may have difficulty 'biting' into an opponent. Also, some events or robot-classes such as sportsman robots may have rule limitations on weapon top-speed.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
== Gears ==<br />
Gears are wheels with teeth that slot together. When one gear is turned the other one turns as well. If the gears are of different sizes, they can be used to increase the power of a turning force. The smaller wheel turns more quickly but with less force, while the bigger one turns more slowly with more force. Although rarely used in weapons, gears are a popular choice with drive systems as they come in a variety of sizes and configurations. <br><br />
Pros: Gears transfer power efficiently. <br><br />
Pros: Gears can be arranged to take up very little space inside a robot. <br><br />
Cons: The build quality of inexpensive gearboxes rarely hold up in combat robots. <br><br />
Cons: Gears are heavy. <br><br />
<br />
== Chains ==<br />
A Roller Chain, known as the drive chain or transmission chain, passing over a sprocket gear, with the teeth of the gear meshing with the holes in the links of the chain.<br />
<br><br />
Pro: Chains are a highly efficient way to transfer power. <br><br />
Pro: Physically strong. <br><br />
Cons: Often requir exact spacing or tensioners to keep them on their sprockets. <br><br />
Cons: Chains are relatively heavy. <br><br />
<br />
== Belts ==<br />
Drive belts use friction to operate. Tension is applied to the belt which causes friction between the belt and the pulleys that it's installed around. Some belts and pulleys have 'teeth' or ridges to increase friction and keep their motion in synch. <br><br />
Pros: Belts are a light-weight solution for transfering power. <br><br />
Pros: Belts come in a wide variety of sizes and styles making them suitible for many designs. <br><br />
Cons: Belts can break in high energy applications. <br><br />
Cons: Belts can loosen over time which reduces their effectiveness. <br><br />
<br />
== Friction ==<br />
Friction can be simple to impliment but it has a lot of downsides and isn't common in robot combat.<br />
Pros<br />
Cons</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Speed_Reduction&diff=646Speed Reduction2022-02-10T04:45:47Z<p>User: /* Gears */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Optimizing Speed ==<br />
For nearly all applications, motors spin faster than is optimal. Although speed can be important, in most cases the added torque gained via speed reduction is needed to get the performance you are looking for.<br />
=== Optimizing Drive Speed ===<br />
How fast should you be? Speed vs. Pushing<br />
Learning to drive<br />
Robotic Legend has created a [https://roboticlegends.org/buildingtips/drivesystems/how-to-calculate-speed-based-on-wheel-speed-tire-diameter/ nice tutorial on how to calculate speed]. <br />
<br />
=== Optimizing Weapon Speed ===<br />
'''Spin up time''' is as important, if not more important than how fast a spinning weapon spins at top speed. If your weapon takes too long to spin up, an aggressive opponent will make contact with your slow moving weapon without taking damage. Typically you want to be able to reach 90% of your top speed in 3 seconds or less. Quick spin up times can be even more important in the small weight classes where small arenas mean you are never far from your opponent. <br />
<br />
In some smaller robot classes that can get away with direct drives for their weapons but typically the motor shaft won't be robust enough to survive weapon impacts. In most larger robots and many small ones, direct drive weapons are too fragile and you will want to transfer the motor speed to a weapon shaft via gears, belts, or chains. This transfer of power from the motor to the weapon-shaft is an opportunity to adjust the weapon speed to find the right balance between spin-up time and top speed.<br />
<br><br />
===Top speed===<br />
'''Faster is always better''' isn't always true. Although high speed is needed to make the robots weapon destructive, spinning the weapon too fast has some downsides. Gyroscopic forces can make turning the robot difficult, and some weapon designs like drumbs or disks may have difficulty 'biting' into an opponent. Also, some events or robot-classes such as sportsman robots may have rule limitations on weapon top-speed.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
== Gears ==<br />
Gears are wheels with teeth that slot together. When one gear is turned the other one turns as well. If the gears are of different sizes, they can be used to increase the power of a turning force. The smaller wheel turns more quickly but with less force, while the bigger one turns more slowly with more force. Although rarely used in weapons, gears are a popular choice with drive systems as they come in a variety of sizes and configurations. <br><br />
Pros: Gears transfer power efficiently. <br.<br />
Pros: Gears can be arranged to take up very little space inside a robot. <br><br />
Cons: The build quality of inexpensive gearboxes rarely hold up in combat robots. <br><br />
Cons: Gears are heavy. <br><br />
<br />
== Chains ==<br />
A Roller Chain, known as the drive chain or transmission chain, passing over a sprocket gear, with the teeth of the gear meshing with the holes in the links of the chain.<br />
<br><br />
Pro: Chains are a highly efficient way to transfer power. <br><br />
Pro: Physically strong. <br><br />
Cons: Often requir exact spacing or tensioners to keep them on their sprockets. <br><br />
Cons: Chains are relatively heavy. <br><br />
<br />
== Belts ==<br />
Drive belts use friction to operate. Tension is applied to the belt which causes friction between the belt and the pulleys that it's installed around. Some belts and pulleys have 'teeth' or ridges to increase friction and keep their motion in synch. <br><br />
Pros: Belts are a light-weight solution for transfering power. <br><br />
Pros: Belts come in a wide variety of sizes and styles making them suitible for many designs. <br><br />
Cons: Belts can break in high energy applications. <br><br />
Cons: Belts can loosen over time which reduces their effectiveness. <br><br />
<br />
== Friction ==<br />
Friction can be simple to impliment but it has a lot of downsides and isn't common in robot combat.<br />
Pros<br />
Cons</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Speed_Reduction&diff=645Speed Reduction2022-02-10T04:34:24Z<p>User: /* Belts */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Optimizing Speed ==<br />
For nearly all applications, motors spin faster than is optimal. Although speed can be important, in most cases the added torque gained via speed reduction is needed to get the performance you are looking for.<br />
=== Optimizing Drive Speed ===<br />
How fast should you be? Speed vs. Pushing<br />
Learning to drive<br />
Robotic Legend has created a [https://roboticlegends.org/buildingtips/drivesystems/how-to-calculate-speed-based-on-wheel-speed-tire-diameter/ nice tutorial on how to calculate speed]. <br />
<br />
=== Optimizing Weapon Speed ===<br />
'''Spin up time''' is as important, if not more important than how fast a spinning weapon spins at top speed. If your weapon takes too long to spin up, an aggressive opponent will make contact with your slow moving weapon without taking damage. Typically you want to be able to reach 90% of your top speed in 3 seconds or less. Quick spin up times can be even more important in the small weight classes where small arenas mean you are never far from your opponent. <br />
<br />
In some smaller robot classes that can get away with direct drives for their weapons but typically the motor shaft won't be robust enough to survive weapon impacts. In most larger robots and many small ones, direct drive weapons are too fragile and you will want to transfer the motor speed to a weapon shaft via gears, belts, or chains. This transfer of power from the motor to the weapon-shaft is an opportunity to adjust the weapon speed to find the right balance between spin-up time and top speed.<br />
<br><br />
===Top speed===<br />
'''Faster is always better''' isn't always true. Although high speed is needed to make the robots weapon destructive, spinning the weapon too fast has some downsides. Gyroscopic forces can make turning the robot difficult, and some weapon designs like drumbs or disks may have difficulty 'biting' into an opponent. Also, some events or robot-classes such as sportsman robots may have rule limitations on weapon top-speed.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
== Gears ==<br />
Although rarely used in weapons, gears are a popular choice with drive systems. <br />
Pros<br />
Cons<br />
<br />
== Chains ==<br />
A Roller Chain, known as the drive chain or transmission chain, passing over a sprocket gear, with the teeth of the gear meshing with the holes in the links of the chain.<br />
<br><br />
Pro: Chains are a highly efficient way to transfer power. <br><br />
Pro: Physically strong. <br><br />
Cons: Often requir exact spacing or tensioners to keep them on their sprockets. <br><br />
Cons: Chains are relatively heavy. <br><br />
<br />
== Belts ==<br />
Drive belts use friction to operate. Tension is applied to the belt which causes friction between the belt and the pulleys that it's installed around. Some belts and pulleys have 'teeth' or ridges to increase friction and keep their motion in synch. <br><br />
Pros: Belts are a light-weight solution for transfering power. <br><br />
Pros: Belts come in a wide variety of sizes and styles making them suitible for many designs. <br><br />
Cons: Belts can break in high energy applications. <br><br />
Cons: Belts can loosen over time which reduces their effectiveness. <br><br />
<br />
== Friction ==<br />
Friction can be simple to impliment but it has a lot of downsides and isn't common in robot combat.<br />
Pros<br />
Cons</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Speed_Reduction&diff=644Speed Reduction2022-02-10T04:24:52Z<p>User: /* Chains */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Optimizing Speed ==<br />
For nearly all applications, motors spin faster than is optimal. Although speed can be important, in most cases the added torque gained via speed reduction is needed to get the performance you are looking for.<br />
=== Optimizing Drive Speed ===<br />
How fast should you be? Speed vs. Pushing<br />
Learning to drive<br />
Robotic Legend has created a [https://roboticlegends.org/buildingtips/drivesystems/how-to-calculate-speed-based-on-wheel-speed-tire-diameter/ nice tutorial on how to calculate speed]. <br />
<br />
=== Optimizing Weapon Speed ===<br />
'''Spin up time''' is as important, if not more important than how fast a spinning weapon spins at top speed. If your weapon takes too long to spin up, an aggressive opponent will make contact with your slow moving weapon without taking damage. Typically you want to be able to reach 90% of your top speed in 3 seconds or less. Quick spin up times can be even more important in the small weight classes where small arenas mean you are never far from your opponent. <br />
<br />
In some smaller robot classes that can get away with direct drives for their weapons but typically the motor shaft won't be robust enough to survive weapon impacts. In most larger robots and many small ones, direct drive weapons are too fragile and you will want to transfer the motor speed to a weapon shaft via gears, belts, or chains. This transfer of power from the motor to the weapon-shaft is an opportunity to adjust the weapon speed to find the right balance between spin-up time and top speed.<br />
<br><br />
===Top speed===<br />
'''Faster is always better''' isn't always true. Although high speed is needed to make the robots weapon destructive, spinning the weapon too fast has some downsides. Gyroscopic forces can make turning the robot difficult, and some weapon designs like drumbs or disks may have difficulty 'biting' into an opponent. Also, some events or robot-classes such as sportsman robots may have rule limitations on weapon top-speed.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
== Gears ==<br />
Although rarely used in weapons, gears are a popular choice with drive systems. <br />
Pros<br />
Cons<br />
<br />
== Chains ==<br />
A Roller Chain, known as the drive chain or transmission chain, passing over a sprocket gear, with the teeth of the gear meshing with the holes in the links of the chain.<br />
<br><br />
Pro: Chains are a highly efficient way to transfer power. <br><br />
Pro: Physically strong. <br><br />
Cons: Often requir exact spacing or tensioners to keep them on their sprockets. <br><br />
Cons: Chains are relatively heavy. <br><br />
<br />
== Belts ==<br />
Belts are a light-weight solution for transfering power.<br />
Pros<br />
Cons<br />
<br />
== Friction ==<br />
Friction can be simple to impliment but it has a lot of downsides and isn't common in robot combat.<br />
Pros<br />
Cons</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Speed_Reduction&diff=643Speed Reduction2022-02-10T04:24:14Z<p>User: /* Chains */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Optimizing Speed ==<br />
For nearly all applications, motors spin faster than is optimal. Although speed can be important, in most cases the added torque gained via speed reduction is needed to get the performance you are looking for.<br />
=== Optimizing Drive Speed ===<br />
How fast should you be? Speed vs. Pushing<br />
Learning to drive<br />
Robotic Legend has created a [https://roboticlegends.org/buildingtips/drivesystems/how-to-calculate-speed-based-on-wheel-speed-tire-diameter/ nice tutorial on how to calculate speed]. <br />
<br />
=== Optimizing Weapon Speed ===<br />
'''Spin up time''' is as important, if not more important than how fast a spinning weapon spins at top speed. If your weapon takes too long to spin up, an aggressive opponent will make contact with your slow moving weapon without taking damage. Typically you want to be able to reach 90% of your top speed in 3 seconds or less. Quick spin up times can be even more important in the small weight classes where small arenas mean you are never far from your opponent. <br />
<br />
In some smaller robot classes that can get away with direct drives for their weapons but typically the motor shaft won't be robust enough to survive weapon impacts. In most larger robots and many small ones, direct drive weapons are too fragile and you will want to transfer the motor speed to a weapon shaft via gears, belts, or chains. This transfer of power from the motor to the weapon-shaft is an opportunity to adjust the weapon speed to find the right balance between spin-up time and top speed.<br />
<br><br />
===Top speed===<br />
'''Faster is always better''' isn't always true. Although high speed is needed to make the robots weapon destructive, spinning the weapon too fast has some downsides. Gyroscopic forces can make turning the robot difficult, and some weapon designs like drumbs or disks may have difficulty 'biting' into an opponent. Also, some events or robot-classes such as sportsman robots may have rule limitations on weapon top-speed.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
== Gears ==<br />
Although rarely used in weapons, gears are a popular choice with drive systems. <br />
Pros<br />
Cons<br />
<br />
== Chains ==<br />
A Roller Chain, known as the drive chain or transmission chain, passing over a sprocket gear, with the teeth of the gear meshing with the holes in the links of the chain. Pro: Chains are a highly efficient way to transfer power.<br />
Pro: Physically strong.<br />
Cons: Often requir exact spacing or tensioners to keep them on their sprockets.<br />
Cons: Chains are relatively heavy.<br />
<br />
== Belts ==<br />
Belts are a light-weight solution for transfering power.<br />
Pros<br />
Cons<br />
<br />
== Friction ==<br />
Friction can be simple to impliment but it has a lot of downsides and isn't common in robot combat.<br />
Pros<br />
Cons</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=3D_Printing&diff=6423D Printing2022-02-10T04:15:34Z<p>User: /* B ~ E */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Original-prusa-i3-mk3s-3d-printer.jpg|thumb|Desktop 3D printer]]<br />
3D printers produce plastic parts under computer control. The process of 3D printing is especially useful for the smaller insect-class bots, where weight is a severe limitation to design. However, even Heavyweight-class builders use 3D printing to make composite reinforced components, custom compartment insulators, and wire guides. Keeping electrical parts and cables away from metal plates and sharp edges reduces the risk of damage and short circuits.<br />
<br />
3D Printing is widely used in one specialized division of combat robotics, the [[Plastic Antweights|Plastic Ants]] class, where the chassis and weapons (if any) must be made of plastic in order to qualify.<br />
<br />
If you don't own a 3D printer, you may be able to get help from your local library or makerspace, or from your fellow bot-builders. Some people will want to design their own bots, which requires knowledge of 3D modeling using a computer or app for the purpose. Others will choose to download a premade design (see below). Once you've got a bot design working to your satisfaction, you can print a supply of replacement plastic parts, which can be used for repairs after your bot becomes damaged.<br />
<br />
=Selecting a Printer=<br />
<br />
Selecting a printer for 3D printing a combat robot can be a big decision, and here are some factors to think about when purchasing your printer.<br />
<br />
==Budget==<br />
Desktop and office 3D Printers can range from as low as $150 to over $10,000 depending on their hardware, capabilities, build volume, and other factors. Here's a quick overview of what's available:<br />
*'''Budget-friendly/hobbyist 3D printers:''' Range from $150 - $750, normally limited in materials and build volume. These include machines like the Creality Ender 3 series, and will normally have a maximum nozzle temperature of 245-250° Celsius. These machines are meant for printing PLA, PETG, and ABS, but with varying degrees of modification can print more advanced materials like Nylon and TPU.<br />
*'''Advanced materials printers:''' Range from $750 - $3,000, and are capable of printing materials like PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, Nylon, Nylon Composites, and Polycarbonate blends with minimal or no aftermarket modifications. These will have a maximum nozzle temperature around 295-300° Celsius.<br />
*'''Engineering grade printers:''' Range from $3,000 - $10,000+, with few materials outside of their capabilities. These printers are often able to print not only advanced materials but also multiple materials using multiple extruders or multiple tool heads, allowing for even greater complexity. Dual extrusion can allow for a multi-color part (Black PLA/White PLA), multi-material finished product (PLA/PETG), or soluble support material like PVA/BCOH.<br />
<br />
=Printable Filaments and Materials=<br />
The materials that a FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication]) 3D printer can extrude must melt at a given temperature, maintain a consistent flow of material through the nozzle, and solidify in a consistent fashion. These materials include thermoplastics, waxes, and even chocolate! With specialized printers it is possible to use such materials as ceramics, glass, and concrete.<br />
<br />
Most 3D prints in combat robotics will be made from rolls of plastics and plastic composites on an FDM printer. "Resin" printers are becoming more common in larger sizes at budget-friendly prices, and more options for resins are available to purchase on a regular basis.<br />
<br />
The list of common 3D printable plastics below proceeds roughly from weakest to strongest.<br />
===PLA===<br />
PLA is inexpensive, but brittle.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIH-HS-SScY] It is the most common 3D printing filament. It rarely warps in use and is great for tiny parts.[https://shop.prusa3d.com/fotky/PLA_TechSheet_ENG.pdf] It's a great starter material, and recommended for printing prototype parts. Many builders prefer other plastics, especially for their active weapons or armor. Pure PLA is made from cornstarch[https://all3dp.com/2/what-is-pla-plastic-material-properties/] and gives off a corn syrup odor which reminds some people of waffles.<br />
<br />
===PLA+===<br />
Various manufacturers offer "PLA+" and/or "Tough PLA," which are modified PLA filaments that are meant to be less brittle. With an acrylic additive, for instance, it may show much better impact resistance.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo] Inland and eSun claim their PLA+ products are 10x stronger than regular PLA.<br />
<br />
===PETG===<br />
PETG (a copolyester) is more heat resistant, more flexible, and less brittle than PLA.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo] It is well suited for 3D printing mechanical parts. Since it is more likely to flex under impact its resilience may be useful to the bot builder, but it is 2-3% heavier than PLA. Observe manufacturer's recommendations when printing, as it tends to stick very strongly to smooth print beds. You'll notice a fairly mild hot-plastic odor when printing.<br />
<br />
===ABS===<br />
ABS is a strong and reasonably impact-resistant material at a moderate price, but warps easily and smells worse while printing. Its low density makes it one of the lightest of all printable plastics (PLA is about 20% heavier for the exact same print). You'll probably need to print it in an enclosure for best results; this keeps its temperature even during printing, so that it only shrinks after printing instead of curling or warping during printing. Many hobbyists ventilate the enclosure to the outdoors with fan(s) due to the odor.<br />
<br />
===Nylon===<br />
Nylon is tough and flexible. Regular nylon is hygroscopic and must be kept in dry storage, or it will absorb moisture from the air and become spoiled after a few weeks. Consider buying a hybrid nylon material that doesn't require as much attention to storage.<br />
<br />
===PC===<br />
Polycarbonate is super strong - your robot arena walls are probably made from it! Many printers can't print it, though, because it must be heated to an extreme temperature (about 275°C/525°F).<br />
<br />
===CF Materials===<br />
Carbon-fiber reinforced materials are extremely tough, and ideal for combat robotics. These are usually polycarbonate or nylon with chopped fibers embedded inside. You should strongly consider using these when plastic parts are needed for beetleweight designs.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9hUcqsNJco] This material requires a hardened printing nozzle, as the carbon-fiber strands or particles are highly abrasive.<br />
<br />
=Tips and Best Practices=<br />
*Nearly all 3D printers can handle PLA and PLA+. Most other materials require printing onto a heated surface (the "print bed"). Check the specifications and instructions of your printer to find out what materials it can handle.<br />
*A basic limitation of 3D printed parts is that they can crack or break apart along layer lines, since they are made from layers of plastic. Generally, the tougher the plastic the more likely the layers will also hold together.<br />
*Pay attention to the orientation of parts on the print bed - consider orienting parts so that the direction that needs to be the strongest lies horizontal during printing.<br />
*You can make adjustments each time you print. Thicker walls (shells) and a higher percentage of infill add density and strength to your bot, but also increase weight. Remember to re-weigh your bot after changes have been made.<br />
<br />
=Robots you can Print=<br />
You can download and print robot designs from sites like [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] and [https://www.prusaprinters.org/ Prusaprinters]. Just 3D print the robot body and other provided parts, then assemble them with the working parts of the robot. Some have helpful instructions and buying suggestions for finishing the working parts; however, some have little or no guidance, and you will need some experience to try them.<br />
<br />
Below are links to over 80 bot designs that have been shared by the robot building community. Limited consideration has been given to whether each of these is buildable, or will meet the stated [[RobotClasses|weight class]].<br />
<br />
===150g Combat Robots===<br />
150g bots are in the US Fairyweight weight class (Antweight in the UK, EU, and Australia).<br />
=====1 ~ A=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022477 Unnamed 150g 4WD Brickbot (by ACE_ROBOTICS) 3022477]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3186849 Unnamed 150g Flipper (by emancarrillo) 3186849]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3811105 Unnamed 150g Hammer (by emancarrillo) 3811105]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4094199 Unnamed 150g Horiz spinner (by emancarrillo) 4094199]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2435280 Unnamed 150g Lifter (by Flaronk) 2435280]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4743535 Unnamed 150g N20-powered Flipper (by JairEmia) 4743535]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4901799 Unnamed 150g N20-powered Hammer or Flipper (by JairEmia) 4901799]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103348 Unnamed 150g Pusher (by beardedowen) 2103348]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3906492 Unnamed 150g Remixed Hammer (by Tom_Dreyfus) 3906492]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4627536 Unnamed 150g Suplex bot (by emancarillo) 4627536]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4330363 Unnamed 150g Wedge (by Technick007) 4330363]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3204827 A Bit Pushy 150g pusher (by FalconFPV) 3204827]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022464 ACE 150g Lifter (by ACE_ROBOTICS) 3022464]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3933072 Additions for Unnamed 150g Flipper (by AlexKorvin) 3933072]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168573 Aionia Timoria 150g Drum spinner (by drcameron) 3168573]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431621 A Little Obvious 150g Angled spinner (by Team Panic) 3431621]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3815539 Ant Freeze V2 150g wedge (by Zanbots) 3815539]<br />
=====B ~ E=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3810730 Baby Shark 150g Wedge (by thesaxmachine) 3810730]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2998633 Barq's Bites 150g Flipper (by drcameron) 2998633]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4616666 Big Flip 150g Plow (by SiegelRacing) 4616666]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4693024 Big Sup 150g Suplex bot (by SiegelRacing) 4693024]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805613 Blackspin 150g Drum spinner (by JC2017) 2805613]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341761 Blind Spot 150g Dustpan bot (by Team Panic) 3341761]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812197 Blockhead 150g Beater bar (by earthwormjim) 2812197]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4623536 Bulldog 150g Vertical spinner (by Bribro12) 4623536]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3972258 Brutus 150g-plus Drum spinner (by AlexKorvin) 3972258]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4182360 Brutus 150g remix (by cannon3d) 4182360]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4338982 Brutus Mk2 150g Horizontal spinner (by AlexKorvin) 4338982]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3195078 Crabulon 150g shufflebot (by Drogg) 3195078]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5240385 Drum Battlebot (by Emancarrillo) 5240385] <br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1215069 Dynamo 150g Wedge (by Pyrotron) 1215069]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3752142 escoBAR 150g based on Shrapnel (by ninja_drift) 3752142]<br />
<br />
=====F ~ J=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3039761 Firestorm 125% 32mm wheel 150g N20 version (by FalconFPV) 3039761]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2927678 Firestorm Micro 150g N20 version (by AdamDC) 2927678]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1665299 Firestorm (Original) 150g Flipper (by alexmordue) 1665299]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5136959 Fork Fairy 150g Wedge (by JairEmia) 5136959]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5216968 Fork Wedge 150g Battlebot (by emancarillo) 4216968]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4352090 Front Flip 150g Flipper (by Fryddog) 4352090]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4268191 Front Flipper 150g Flipper (by emancarrillo) 4268191]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281243 Grabbybot 150g Grab and Lift (by emancarillo) 4281243]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3323762 Graboid 150g Grabber (by JC2017) 3323762]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4868890 Grabthar 150g modular (by Aldwin) 4868890]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3707013 Guestimate 150g Horiz spinner (by Team Panic) 3707013]<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/7786-halloween-robot Halloween Pumpkin 150g (by NoLiver92)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5154492 Hampire 150g Thwackbot (by Baker01t) 5154492]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4240015 Hello Trouble 150g Bar spinner (by Stonecreekturnings) 4240015]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4325008 HugsEy 150g Grab and Lift (by SiegelRacing) 4325008]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1816540 Inspired by Carbide 150g Horizontal spinner (by alexmordue) 1816540]<br />
<br />
=====K ~ S=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4308902 Kraken 150g Crusher (by emancarrillo) 4308902]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2989490 Loader 150g Wedge (by HarryMakesThings) 2989490]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4866523 LowMow 150g Undercutter (by JC2017) 4866523]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2945303 Mega London 150g Lifter (by thesaxmachine) 2945303]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341738 Microdot 150g Triple wedge (by Team Panic) 3341738]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022469 Mini Emoji 150g Lifter (by ACE_ROBOTICS) 3022469]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4844195 Netsplit 150g Horizontal spinner (by xanderstrike) 4844195]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2022778 Plover 150g Wedge (by aldwin) 2022778]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1800795 Rollcage 150g Wedge (by fryddog) 1800795]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4297430 Scrapper 150g wedge (by Fryddog) 4297430]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4789416 Servo Drive 150g Hammerbot (by WitchdoctorbyKO) 4789416]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1692075 Shrapnel 150g Spinner (by Fryddog) 1692075]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115202 Shrapnel Mk3 150g Spinner (by Fryddog) 3115202]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168636 Shredder 150g Spinner based on Shrapnel (by drcameron) 3168636]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168700 Siren 150g Drum spinner (by drcameron) 3168700]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054276 Slightly Crude 150g Wedge (by Team Panic) 2054276]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4311761 Spike 150g wedge (by Fryddog) 4311761]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3184758 Spooky 150g Horiz spinner (by BLRobotics27) 3184758]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4567470 Squeezy 150g Grab and Lift (NEW) (by SiegelRacing) 4567470]<br />
=====T ~ Z=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3099273 Upchuck 150g Vertical spinner (by FalconFPV) 3099273]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2927358 Vlad Micro 150g Lift forks (by AdamDC) 2927358]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2946703 Wedge of Doom 150g Wedge (by FalconFPV) 2946703]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3695273 White Fang 150g Horiz spinner (by Insertbattlebotsjokehere) 3695273]<br />
<br />
===Larger Weight Classes===<br />
<br />
=====1lb Class (≈453g) =====<br />
US Antweight class.<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723564 1lb 4WD Wedge (by TeamLiftoff) 4723564]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2036647 1lb Vertical spinner (by kkbittle) 2036647]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3908901 3DAD 1lb Horiz spinner (by drcameron) 3908901]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3146568 Backlash 1lb Horizontal spinner (by clingmanr) 3146568]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3111090 Blockhead remix 1lb Paddle spinner (by shultiskevin) 3111090]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4075681 Blue Screen of Death 1lb Horizontal spinner (by chrismik) 4075681]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4885071 CheeseWej 1lb Plastic ant Wedge (by Teamd20) 4885071]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3297944 Doom Stone V1 1lb Plastic Ant Vertical spinner (by kmcelroy) 3297944]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4800332 Eureka 1lb Plastic ant Wedge (by Teamd20) 4800332]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3160354 Flapjack 1lb Drum spinner (by shultiskevin) 3160354]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3793747 Future Killer 1lb Vert drum (by altapowderdog) 3793747]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675230 Half-SMEEEEEEEEEEEE 1lb long split wedge (by TheN00b) 4675230]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4910548 LifeSteal 1lb Plastic Ant Horiz spinner (by Posey) 4910548]<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88678-3d-printed-verticle-disc-spinner-combat-robot Mega Looon V1 1lb Vertical spinner (by thesaxmachine)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2828234 MI 1lb spinner (by RattlerRobotics) 2828234]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3170974 Mr. Roomba 1lb Plastic Ant Ring spinner (by Kylellrc) 3170974]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1401358 Mr. Twister 1lb (incl. Plastic ant option) Vertical Spinner (by AdamDC) 1401358]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2813722 Plastique 1lb Shell spinner (by AdamDC) 2813722]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3962507 Simple 1lb Wedge demobot (by mightygrom) 3962507]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3819420 Tiger Shark V5 1lb Horizontal spinner (by thesaxmachine) 3819420]<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88673-antweight-horizontal-bar-spinner-tiger-shark-v6 Tiger Shark V6 1lb Horizontal spinner (by thesaxmachine)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843171 WejFu 1lb Plastic Ant Wedge (by Teamd20) 4843171]<br />
<br />
=====3lb Class (≈1.36kg) =====<br />
US Beetleweight class.<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88674-mega-don-g-version-2-beetle-weight-combat-robot Mega Don G V2 3lb Plow (by thesaxmachine)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3731962 Munchkin 3lb Drum spinner (by Creative_Instigation) 3731962]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3179067 Rapid Unscheduled Disassembly Mk6 3lb Undercutter spinner (by TeamMagicalLipoFire) 3179067]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3917039 Vector 3lb Horizontal spinner (by Endbots) 3917039]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4741317 Vertex 3lb vert spinner (by Proxy303) 4741317]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4241833 Vertigo 3lb bot (by Insertbattlebotsjokehere) 4241833]<br />
<br />
=====1.5kg Class (≈3.3lb) =====<br />
UK Beetleweight class.<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4232399 Deadlift 1.5kg bot (by Noursicus) 4232399]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4230265 Plastic Donk - 1.5kg Wedge (by Noursicus) 4230265]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5022333 Razor 1.5kg Horiz saw (by AlexKorvin) 5022333]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4967207 Wall Chaser 1.5kg Vertical saw (by AlexKorvin) 4967207]<br />
<br />
=====Weight not specified=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3160993 Mars Attacks (itself) (by shultiskevin) 3160993]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1688510 Combat Robot 2.0 Drum spinner (by altapowderdog) 1688510]</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=3D_Printing&diff=6413D Printing2022-02-10T04:14:29Z<p>User: Added 150g bot</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Original-prusa-i3-mk3s-3d-printer.jpg|thumb|Desktop 3D printer]]<br />
3D printers produce plastic parts under computer control. The process of 3D printing is especially useful for the smaller insect-class bots, where weight is a severe limitation to design. However, even Heavyweight-class builders use 3D printing to make composite reinforced components, custom compartment insulators, and wire guides. Keeping electrical parts and cables away from metal plates and sharp edges reduces the risk of damage and short circuits.<br />
<br />
3D Printing is widely used in one specialized division of combat robotics, the [[Plastic Antweights|Plastic Ants]] class, where the chassis and weapons (if any) must be made of plastic in order to qualify.<br />
<br />
If you don't own a 3D printer, you may be able to get help from your local library or makerspace, or from your fellow bot-builders. Some people will want to design their own bots, which requires knowledge of 3D modeling using a computer or app for the purpose. Others will choose to download a premade design (see below). Once you've got a bot design working to your satisfaction, you can print a supply of replacement plastic parts, which can be used for repairs after your bot becomes damaged.<br />
<br />
=Selecting a Printer=<br />
<br />
Selecting a printer for 3D printing a combat robot can be a big decision, and here are some factors to think about when purchasing your printer.<br />
<br />
==Budget==<br />
Desktop and office 3D Printers can range from as low as $150 to over $10,000 depending on their hardware, capabilities, build volume, and other factors. Here's a quick overview of what's available:<br />
*'''Budget-friendly/hobbyist 3D printers:''' Range from $150 - $750, normally limited in materials and build volume. These include machines like the Creality Ender 3 series, and will normally have a maximum nozzle temperature of 245-250° Celsius. These machines are meant for printing PLA, PETG, and ABS, but with varying degrees of modification can print more advanced materials like Nylon and TPU.<br />
*'''Advanced materials printers:''' Range from $750 - $3,000, and are capable of printing materials like PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, Nylon, Nylon Composites, and Polycarbonate blends with minimal or no aftermarket modifications. These will have a maximum nozzle temperature around 295-300° Celsius.<br />
*'''Engineering grade printers:''' Range from $3,000 - $10,000+, with few materials outside of their capabilities. These printers are often able to print not only advanced materials but also multiple materials using multiple extruders or multiple tool heads, allowing for even greater complexity. Dual extrusion can allow for a multi-color part (Black PLA/White PLA), multi-material finished product (PLA/PETG), or soluble support material like PVA/BCOH.<br />
<br />
=Printable Filaments and Materials=<br />
The materials that a FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication]) 3D printer can extrude must melt at a given temperature, maintain a consistent flow of material through the nozzle, and solidify in a consistent fashion. These materials include thermoplastics, waxes, and even chocolate! With specialized printers it is possible to use such materials as ceramics, glass, and concrete.<br />
<br />
Most 3D prints in combat robotics will be made from rolls of plastics and plastic composites on an FDM printer. "Resin" printers are becoming more common in larger sizes at budget-friendly prices, and more options for resins are available to purchase on a regular basis.<br />
<br />
The list of common 3D printable plastics below proceeds roughly from weakest to strongest.<br />
===PLA===<br />
PLA is inexpensive, but brittle.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIH-HS-SScY] It is the most common 3D printing filament. It rarely warps in use and is great for tiny parts.[https://shop.prusa3d.com/fotky/PLA_TechSheet_ENG.pdf] It's a great starter material, and recommended for printing prototype parts. Many builders prefer other plastics, especially for their active weapons or armor. Pure PLA is made from cornstarch[https://all3dp.com/2/what-is-pla-plastic-material-properties/] and gives off a corn syrup odor which reminds some people of waffles.<br />
<br />
===PLA+===<br />
Various manufacturers offer "PLA+" and/or "Tough PLA," which are modified PLA filaments that are meant to be less brittle. With an acrylic additive, for instance, it may show much better impact resistance.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo] Inland and eSun claim their PLA+ products are 10x stronger than regular PLA.<br />
<br />
===PETG===<br />
PETG (a copolyester) is more heat resistant, more flexible, and less brittle than PLA.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo] It is well suited for 3D printing mechanical parts. Since it is more likely to flex under impact its resilience may be useful to the bot builder, but it is 2-3% heavier than PLA. Observe manufacturer's recommendations when printing, as it tends to stick very strongly to smooth print beds. You'll notice a fairly mild hot-plastic odor when printing.<br />
<br />
===ABS===<br />
ABS is a strong and reasonably impact-resistant material at a moderate price, but warps easily and smells worse while printing. Its low density makes it one of the lightest of all printable plastics (PLA is about 20% heavier for the exact same print). You'll probably need to print it in an enclosure for best results; this keeps its temperature even during printing, so that it only shrinks after printing instead of curling or warping during printing. Many hobbyists ventilate the enclosure to the outdoors with fan(s) due to the odor.<br />
<br />
===Nylon===<br />
Nylon is tough and flexible. Regular nylon is hygroscopic and must be kept in dry storage, or it will absorb moisture from the air and become spoiled after a few weeks. Consider buying a hybrid nylon material that doesn't require as much attention to storage.<br />
<br />
===PC===<br />
Polycarbonate is super strong - your robot arena walls are probably made from it! Many printers can't print it, though, because it must be heated to an extreme temperature (about 275°C/525°F).<br />
<br />
===CF Materials===<br />
Carbon-fiber reinforced materials are extremely tough, and ideal for combat robotics. These are usually polycarbonate or nylon with chopped fibers embedded inside. You should strongly consider using these when plastic parts are needed for beetleweight designs.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9hUcqsNJco] This material requires a hardened printing nozzle, as the carbon-fiber strands or particles are highly abrasive.<br />
<br />
=Tips and Best Practices=<br />
*Nearly all 3D printers can handle PLA and PLA+. Most other materials require printing onto a heated surface (the "print bed"). Check the specifications and instructions of your printer to find out what materials it can handle.<br />
*A basic limitation of 3D printed parts is that they can crack or break apart along layer lines, since they are made from layers of plastic. Generally, the tougher the plastic the more likely the layers will also hold together.<br />
*Pay attention to the orientation of parts on the print bed - consider orienting parts so that the direction that needs to be the strongest lies horizontal during printing.<br />
*You can make adjustments each time you print. Thicker walls (shells) and a higher percentage of infill add density and strength to your bot, but also increase weight. Remember to re-weigh your bot after changes have been made.<br />
<br />
=Robots you can Print=<br />
You can download and print robot designs from sites like [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] and [https://www.prusaprinters.org/ Prusaprinters]. Just 3D print the robot body and other provided parts, then assemble them with the working parts of the robot. Some have helpful instructions and buying suggestions for finishing the working parts; however, some have little or no guidance, and you will need some experience to try them.<br />
<br />
Below are links to over 80 bot designs that have been shared by the robot building community. Limited consideration has been given to whether each of these is buildable, or will meet the stated [[RobotClasses|weight class]].<br />
<br />
===150g Combat Robots===<br />
150g bots are in the US Fairyweight weight class (Antweight in the UK, EU, and Australia).<br />
=====1 ~ A=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022477 Unnamed 150g 4WD Brickbot (by ACE_ROBOTICS) 3022477]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3186849 Unnamed 150g Flipper (by emancarrillo) 3186849]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3811105 Unnamed 150g Hammer (by emancarrillo) 3811105]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4094199 Unnamed 150g Horiz spinner (by emancarrillo) 4094199]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2435280 Unnamed 150g Lifter (by Flaronk) 2435280]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4743535 Unnamed 150g N20-powered Flipper (by JairEmia) 4743535]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4901799 Unnamed 150g N20-powered Hammer or Flipper (by JairEmia) 4901799]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103348 Unnamed 150g Pusher (by beardedowen) 2103348]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3906492 Unnamed 150g Remixed Hammer (by Tom_Dreyfus) 3906492]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4627536 Unnamed 150g Suplex bot (by emancarillo) 4627536]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4330363 Unnamed 150g Wedge (by Technick007) 4330363]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3204827 A Bit Pushy 150g pusher (by FalconFPV) 3204827]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022464 ACE 150g Lifter (by ACE_ROBOTICS) 3022464]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3933072 Additions for Unnamed 150g Flipper (by AlexKorvin) 3933072]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168573 Aionia Timoria 150g Drum spinner (by drcameron) 3168573]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431621 A Little Obvious 150g Angled spinner (by Team Panic) 3431621]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3815539 Ant Freeze V2 150g wedge (by Zanbots) 3815539]<br />
=====B ~ E=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3810730 Baby Shark 150g Wedge (by thesaxmachine) 3810730]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2998633 Barq's Bites 150g Flipper (by drcameron) 2998633]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4616666 Big Flip 150g Plow (by SiegelRacing) 4616666]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4693024 Big Sup 150g Suplex bot (by SiegelRacing) 4693024]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805613 Blackspin 150g Drum spinner (by JC2017) 2805613]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341761 Blind Spot 150g Dustpan bot (by Team Panic) 3341761]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812197 Blockhead 150g Beater bar (by earthwormjim) 2812197]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4623536 Bulldog 150g Vertical spinner (by Bribro12) 4623536]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3972258 Brutus 150g-plus Drum spinner (by AlexKorvin) 3972258]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4182360 Brutus 150g remix (by cannon3d) 4182360]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4338982 Brutus Mk2 150g Horizontal spinner (by AlexKorvin) 4338982]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3195078 Crabulon 150g shufflebot (by Drogg) 3195078]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5240385 Drum Battlebot (by Emancarrillo 5240385] <br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1215069 Dynamo 150g Wedge (by Pyrotron) 1215069]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3752142 escoBAR 150g based on Shrapnel (by ninja_drift) 3752142]<br />
<br />
=====F ~ J=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3039761 Firestorm 125% 32mm wheel 150g N20 version (by FalconFPV) 3039761]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2927678 Firestorm Micro 150g N20 version (by AdamDC) 2927678]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1665299 Firestorm (Original) 150g Flipper (by alexmordue) 1665299]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5136959 Fork Fairy 150g Wedge (by JairEmia) 5136959]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5216968 Fork Wedge 150g Battlebot (by emancarillo) 4216968]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4352090 Front Flip 150g Flipper (by Fryddog) 4352090]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4268191 Front Flipper 150g Flipper (by emancarrillo) 4268191]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281243 Grabbybot 150g Grab and Lift (by emancarillo) 4281243]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3323762 Graboid 150g Grabber (by JC2017) 3323762]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4868890 Grabthar 150g modular (by Aldwin) 4868890]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3707013 Guestimate 150g Horiz spinner (by Team Panic) 3707013]<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/7786-halloween-robot Halloween Pumpkin 150g (by NoLiver92)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5154492 Hampire 150g Thwackbot (by Baker01t) 5154492]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4240015 Hello Trouble 150g Bar spinner (by Stonecreekturnings) 4240015]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4325008 HugsEy 150g Grab and Lift (by SiegelRacing) 4325008]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1816540 Inspired by Carbide 150g Horizontal spinner (by alexmordue) 1816540]<br />
<br />
=====K ~ S=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4308902 Kraken 150g Crusher (by emancarrillo) 4308902]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2989490 Loader 150g Wedge (by HarryMakesThings) 2989490]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4866523 LowMow 150g Undercutter (by JC2017) 4866523]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2945303 Mega London 150g Lifter (by thesaxmachine) 2945303]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341738 Microdot 150g Triple wedge (by Team Panic) 3341738]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022469 Mini Emoji 150g Lifter (by ACE_ROBOTICS) 3022469]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4844195 Netsplit 150g Horizontal spinner (by xanderstrike) 4844195]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2022778 Plover 150g Wedge (by aldwin) 2022778]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1800795 Rollcage 150g Wedge (by fryddog) 1800795]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4297430 Scrapper 150g wedge (by Fryddog) 4297430]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4789416 Servo Drive 150g Hammerbot (by WitchdoctorbyKO) 4789416]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1692075 Shrapnel 150g Spinner (by Fryddog) 1692075]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115202 Shrapnel Mk3 150g Spinner (by Fryddog) 3115202]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168636 Shredder 150g Spinner based on Shrapnel (by drcameron) 3168636]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168700 Siren 150g Drum spinner (by drcameron) 3168700]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054276 Slightly Crude 150g Wedge (by Team Panic) 2054276]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4311761 Spike 150g wedge (by Fryddog) 4311761]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3184758 Spooky 150g Horiz spinner (by BLRobotics27) 3184758]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4567470 Squeezy 150g Grab and Lift (NEW) (by SiegelRacing) 4567470]<br />
=====T ~ Z=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3099273 Upchuck 150g Vertical spinner (by FalconFPV) 3099273]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2927358 Vlad Micro 150g Lift forks (by AdamDC) 2927358]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2946703 Wedge of Doom 150g Wedge (by FalconFPV) 2946703]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3695273 White Fang 150g Horiz spinner (by Insertbattlebotsjokehere) 3695273]<br />
<br />
===Larger Weight Classes===<br />
<br />
=====1lb Class (≈453g) =====<br />
US Antweight class.<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723564 1lb 4WD Wedge (by TeamLiftoff) 4723564]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2036647 1lb Vertical spinner (by kkbittle) 2036647]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3908901 3DAD 1lb Horiz spinner (by drcameron) 3908901]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3146568 Backlash 1lb Horizontal spinner (by clingmanr) 3146568]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3111090 Blockhead remix 1lb Paddle spinner (by shultiskevin) 3111090]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4075681 Blue Screen of Death 1lb Horizontal spinner (by chrismik) 4075681]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4885071 CheeseWej 1lb Plastic ant Wedge (by Teamd20) 4885071]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3297944 Doom Stone V1 1lb Plastic Ant Vertical spinner (by kmcelroy) 3297944]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4800332 Eureka 1lb Plastic ant Wedge (by Teamd20) 4800332]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3160354 Flapjack 1lb Drum spinner (by shultiskevin) 3160354]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3793747 Future Killer 1lb Vert drum (by altapowderdog) 3793747]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675230 Half-SMEEEEEEEEEEEE 1lb long split wedge (by TheN00b) 4675230]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4910548 LifeSteal 1lb Plastic Ant Horiz spinner (by Posey) 4910548]<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88678-3d-printed-verticle-disc-spinner-combat-robot Mega Looon V1 1lb Vertical spinner (by thesaxmachine)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2828234 MI 1lb spinner (by RattlerRobotics) 2828234]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3170974 Mr. Roomba 1lb Plastic Ant Ring spinner (by Kylellrc) 3170974]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1401358 Mr. Twister 1lb (incl. Plastic ant option) Vertical Spinner (by AdamDC) 1401358]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2813722 Plastique 1lb Shell spinner (by AdamDC) 2813722]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3962507 Simple 1lb Wedge demobot (by mightygrom) 3962507]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3819420 Tiger Shark V5 1lb Horizontal spinner (by thesaxmachine) 3819420]<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88673-antweight-horizontal-bar-spinner-tiger-shark-v6 Tiger Shark V6 1lb Horizontal spinner (by thesaxmachine)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843171 WejFu 1lb Plastic Ant Wedge (by Teamd20) 4843171]<br />
<br />
=====3lb Class (≈1.36kg) =====<br />
US Beetleweight class.<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88674-mega-don-g-version-2-beetle-weight-combat-robot Mega Don G V2 3lb Plow (by thesaxmachine)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3731962 Munchkin 3lb Drum spinner (by Creative_Instigation) 3731962]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3179067 Rapid Unscheduled Disassembly Mk6 3lb Undercutter spinner (by TeamMagicalLipoFire) 3179067]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3917039 Vector 3lb Horizontal spinner (by Endbots) 3917039]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4741317 Vertex 3lb vert spinner (by Proxy303) 4741317]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4241833 Vertigo 3lb bot (by Insertbattlebotsjokehere) 4241833]<br />
<br />
=====1.5kg Class (≈3.3lb) =====<br />
UK Beetleweight class.<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4232399 Deadlift 1.5kg bot (by Noursicus) 4232399]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4230265 Plastic Donk - 1.5kg Wedge (by Noursicus) 4230265]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5022333 Razor 1.5kg Horiz saw (by AlexKorvin) 5022333]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4967207 Wall Chaser 1.5kg Vertical saw (by AlexKorvin) 4967207]<br />
<br />
=====Weight not specified=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3160993 Mars Attacks (itself) (by shultiskevin) 3160993]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1688510 Combat Robot 2.0 Drum spinner (by altapowderdog) 1688510]</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=3D_Printing&diff=6403D Printing2022-01-26T15:25:51Z<p>User: /* F ~ J */ - Added a bot</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Original-prusa-i3-mk3s-3d-printer.jpg|thumb|Desktop 3D printer]]<br />
3D printers produce plastic parts under computer control. The process of 3D printing is especially useful for the smaller insect-class bots, where weight is a severe limitation to design. However, even Heavyweight-class builders use 3D printing to make composite reinforced components, custom compartment insulators, and wire guides. Keeping electrical parts and cables away from metal plates and sharp edges reduces the risk of damage and short circuits.<br />
<br />
3D Printing is widely used in one specialized division of combat robotics, the [[Plastic Antweights|Plastic Ants]] class, where the chassis and weapons (if any) must be made of plastic in order to qualify.<br />
<br />
If you don't own a 3D printer, you may be able to get help from your local library or makerspace, or from your fellow bot-builders. Some people will want to design their own bots, which requires knowledge of 3D modeling using a computer or app for the purpose. Others will choose to download a premade design (see below). Once you've got a bot design working to your satisfaction, you can print a supply of replacement plastic parts, which can be used for repairs after your bot becomes damaged.<br />
<br />
=Selecting a Printer=<br />
<br />
Selecting a printer for 3D printing a combat robot can be a big decision, and here are some factors to think about when purchasing your printer.<br />
<br />
==Budget==<br />
Desktop and office 3D Printers can range from as low as $150 to over $10,000 depending on their hardware, capabilities, build volume, and other factors. Here's a quick overview of what's available:<br />
*'''Budget-friendly/hobbyist 3D printers:''' Range from $150 - $750, normally limited in materials and build volume. These include machines like the Creality Ender 3 series, and will normally have a maximum nozzle temperature of 245-250° Celsius. These machines are meant for printing PLA, PETG, and ABS, but with varying degrees of modification can print more advanced materials like Nylon and TPU.<br />
*'''Advanced materials printers:''' Range from $750 - $3,000, and are capable of printing materials like PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, Nylon, Nylon Composites, and Polycarbonate blends with minimal or no aftermarket modifications. These will have a maximum nozzle temperature around 295-300° Celsius.<br />
*'''Engineering grade printers:''' Range from $3,000 - $10,000+, with few materials outside of their capabilities. These printers are often able to print not only advanced materials but also multiple materials using multiple extruders or multiple tool heads, allowing for even greater complexity. Dual extrusion can allow for a multi-color part (Black PLA/White PLA), multi-material finished product (PLA/PETG), or soluble support material like PVA/BCOH.<br />
<br />
=Printable Filaments and Materials=<br />
The materials that a FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication]) 3D printer can extrude must melt at a given temperature, maintain a consistent flow of material through the nozzle, and solidify in a consistent fashion. These materials include thermoplastics, waxes, and even chocolate! With specialized printers it is possible to use such materials as ceramics, glass, and concrete.<br />
<br />
Most 3D prints in combat robotics will be made from rolls of plastics and plastic composites on an FDM printer. "Resin" printers are becoming more common in larger sizes at budget-friendly prices, and more options for resins are available to purchase on a regular basis.<br />
<br />
The list of common 3D printable plastics below proceeds roughly from weakest to strongest.<br />
===PLA===<br />
PLA is inexpensive, but brittle.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIH-HS-SScY] It is the most common 3D printing filament. It rarely warps in use and is great for tiny parts.[https://shop.prusa3d.com/fotky/PLA_TechSheet_ENG.pdf] It's a great starter material, and recommended for printing prototype parts. Many builders prefer other plastics, especially for their active weapons or armor. Pure PLA is made from cornstarch[https://all3dp.com/2/what-is-pla-plastic-material-properties/] and gives off a corn syrup odor which reminds some people of waffles.<br />
<br />
===PLA+===<br />
Various manufacturers offer "PLA+" and/or "Tough PLA," which are modified PLA filaments that are meant to be less brittle. With an acrylic additive, for instance, it may show much better impact resistance.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo] Inland and eSun claim their PLA+ products are 10x stronger than regular PLA.<br />
<br />
===PETG===<br />
PETG (a copolyester) is more heat resistant, more flexible, and less brittle than PLA.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo] It is well suited for 3D printing mechanical parts. Since it is more likely to flex under impact its resilience may be useful to the bot builder, but it is 2-3% heavier than PLA. Observe manufacturer's recommendations when printing, as it tends to stick very strongly to smooth print beds. You'll notice a fairly mild hot-plastic odor when printing.<br />
<br />
===ABS===<br />
ABS is a strong and reasonably impact-resistant material at a moderate price, but warps easily and smells worse while printing. Its low density makes it one of the lightest of all printable plastics (PLA is about 20% heavier for the exact same print). You'll probably need to print it in an enclosure for best results; this keeps its temperature even during printing, so that it only shrinks after printing instead of curling or warping during printing. Many hobbyists ventilate the enclosure to the outdoors with fan(s) due to the odor.<br />
<br />
===Nylon===<br />
Nylon is tough and flexible. Regular nylon is hygroscopic and must be kept in dry storage, or it will absorb moisture from the air and become spoiled after a few weeks. Consider buying a hybrid nylon material that doesn't require as much attention to storage.<br />
<br />
===PC===<br />
Polycarbonate is super strong - your robot arena walls are probably made from it! Many printers can't print it, though, because it must be heated to an extreme temperature (about 275°C/525°F).<br />
<br />
===CF Materials===<br />
Carbon-fiber reinforced materials are extremely tough, and ideal for combat robotics. These are usually polycarbonate or nylon with chopped fibers embedded inside. You should strongly consider using these when plastic parts are needed for beetleweight designs.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9hUcqsNJco] This material requires a hardened printing nozzle, as the carbon-fiber strands or particles are highly abrasive.<br />
<br />
=Tips and Best Practices=<br />
*Nearly all 3D printers can handle PLA and PLA+. Most other materials require printing onto a heated surface (the "print bed"). Check the specifications and instructions of your printer to find out what materials it can handle.<br />
*A basic limitation of 3D printed parts is that they can crack or break apart along layer lines, since they are made from layers of plastic. Generally, the tougher the plastic the more likely the layers will also hold together.<br />
*Pay attention to the orientation of parts on the print bed - consider orienting parts so that the direction that needs to be the strongest lies horizontal during printing.<br />
*You can make adjustments each time you print. Thicker walls (shells) and a higher percentage of infill add density and strength to your bot, but also increase weight. Remember to re-weigh your bot after changes have been made.<br />
<br />
=Robots you can Print=<br />
You can download and print robot designs from sites like [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] and [https://www.prusaprinters.org/ Prusaprinters]. Just 3D print the robot body and other provided parts, then assemble them with the working parts of the robot. Some have helpful instructions and buying suggestions for finishing the working parts; however, some have little or no guidance, and you will need some experience to try them.<br />
<br />
Below are links to over 80 bot designs that have been shared by the robot building community. Limited consideration has been given to whether each of these is buildable, or will meet the stated [[RobotClasses|weight class]].<br />
<br />
===150g Combat Robots===<br />
150g bots are in the US Fairyweight weight class (Antweight in the UK, EU, and Australia).<br />
=====1 ~ A=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022477 Unnamed 150g 4WD Brickbot (by ACE_ROBOTICS) 3022477]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3186849 Unnamed 150g Flipper (by emancarrillo) 3186849]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3811105 Unnamed 150g Hammer (by emancarrillo) 3811105]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4094199 Unnamed 150g Horiz spinner (by emancarrillo) 4094199]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2435280 Unnamed 150g Lifter (by Flaronk) 2435280]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4743535 Unnamed 150g N20-powered Flipper (by JairEmia) 4743535]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4901799 Unnamed 150g N20-powered Hammer or Flipper (by JairEmia) 4901799]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103348 Unnamed 150g Pusher (by beardedowen) 2103348]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3906492 Unnamed 150g Remixed Hammer (by Tom_Dreyfus) 3906492]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4627536 Unnamed 150g Suplex bot (by emancarillo) 4627536]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4330363 Unnamed 150g Wedge (by Technick007) 4330363]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3204827 A Bit Pushy 150g pusher (by FalconFPV) 3204827]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022464 ACE 150g Lifter (by ACE_ROBOTICS) 3022464]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3933072 Additions for Unnamed 150g Flipper (by AlexKorvin) 3933072]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168573 Aionia Timoria 150g Drum spinner (by drcameron) 3168573]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431621 A Little Obvious 150g Angled spinner (by Team Panic) 3431621]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3815539 Ant Freeze V2 150g wedge (by Zanbots) 3815539]<br />
=====B ~ E=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3810730 Baby Shark 150g Wedge (by thesaxmachine) 3810730]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2998633 Barq's Bites 150g Flipper (by drcameron) 2998633]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4616666 Big Flip 150g Plow (by SiegelRacing) 4616666]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4693024 Big Sup 150g Suplex bot (by SiegelRacing) 4693024]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805613 Blackspin 150g Drum spinner (by JC2017) 2805613]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341761 Blind Spot 150g Dustpan bot (by Team Panic) 3341761]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812197 Blockhead 150g Beater bar (by earthwormjim) 2812197]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4623536 Bulldog 150g Vertical spinner (by Bribro12) 4623536]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3972258 Brutus 150g-plus Drum spinner (by AlexKorvin) 3972258]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4182360 Brutus 150g remix (by cannon3d) 4182360]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4338982 Brutus Mk2 150g Horizontal spinner (by AlexKorvin) 4338982]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3195078 Crabulon 150g shufflebot (by Drogg) 3195078]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1215069 Dynamo 150g Wedge (by Pyrotron) 1215069]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3752142 escoBAR 150g based on Shrapnel (by ninja_drift) 3752142]<br />
=====F ~ J=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3039761 Firestorm 125% 32mm wheel 150g N20 version (by FalconFPV) 3039761]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2927678 Firestorm Micro 150g N20 version (by AdamDC) 2927678]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1665299 Firestorm (Original) 150g Flipper (by alexmordue) 1665299]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5136959 Fork Fairy 150g Wedge (by JairEmia) 5136959]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5216968 Fork Wedge 150g Battlebot (by emancarillo) 4216968]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4352090 Front Flip 150g Flipper (by Fryddog) 4352090]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4268191 Front Flipper 150g Flipper (by emancarrillo) 4268191]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281243 Grabbybot 150g Grab and Lift (by emancarillo) 4281243]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3323762 Graboid 150g Grabber (by JC2017) 3323762]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4868890 Grabthar 150g modular (by Aldwin) 4868890]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3707013 Guestimate 150g Horiz spinner (by Team Panic) 3707013]<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/7786-halloween-robot Halloween Pumpkin 150g (by NoLiver92)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5154492 Hampire 150g Thwackbot (by Baker01t) 5154492]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4240015 Hello Trouble 150g Bar spinner (by Stonecreekturnings) 4240015]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4325008 HugsEy 150g Grab and Lift (by SiegelRacing) 4325008]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1816540 Inspired by Carbide 150g Horizontal spinner (by alexmordue) 1816540]<br />
<br />
=====K ~ S=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4308902 Kraken 150g Crusher (by emancarrillo) 4308902]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2989490 Loader 150g Wedge (by HarryMakesThings) 2989490]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4866523 LowMow 150g Undercutter (by JC2017) 4866523]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2945303 Mega London 150g Lifter (by thesaxmachine) 2945303]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341738 Microdot 150g Triple wedge (by Team Panic) 3341738]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022469 Mini Emoji 150g Lifter (by ACE_ROBOTICS) 3022469]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4844195 Netsplit 150g Horizontal spinner (by xanderstrike) 4844195]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2022778 Plover 150g Wedge (by aldwin) 2022778]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1800795 Rollcage 150g Wedge (by fryddog) 1800795]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4297430 Scrapper 150g wedge (by Fryddog) 4297430]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4789416 Servo Drive 150g Hammerbot (by WitchdoctorbyKO) 4789416]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1692075 Shrapnel 150g Spinner (by Fryddog) 1692075]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115202 Shrapnel Mk3 150g Spinner (by Fryddog) 3115202]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168636 Shredder 150g Spinner based on Shrapnel (by drcameron) 3168636]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168700 Siren 150g Drum spinner (by drcameron) 3168700]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054276 Slightly Crude 150g Wedge (by Team Panic) 2054276]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4311761 Spike 150g wedge (by Fryddog) 4311761]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3184758 Spooky 150g Horiz spinner (by BLRobotics27) 3184758]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4567470 Squeezy 150g Grab and Lift (NEW) (by SiegelRacing) 4567470]<br />
=====T ~ Z=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3099273 Upchuck 150g Vertical spinner (by FalconFPV) 3099273]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2927358 Vlad Micro 150g Lift forks (by AdamDC) 2927358]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2946703 Wedge of Doom 150g Wedge (by FalconFPV) 2946703]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3695273 White Fang 150g Horiz spinner (by Insertbattlebotsjokehere) 3695273]<br />
<br />
===Larger Weight Classes===<br />
<br />
=====1lb Class (≈453g) =====<br />
US Antweight class.<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723564 1lb 4WD Wedge (by TeamLiftoff) 4723564]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2036647 1lb Vertical spinner (by kkbittle) 2036647]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3908901 3DAD 1lb Horiz spinner (by drcameron) 3908901]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3146568 Backlash 1lb Horizontal spinner (by clingmanr) 3146568]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3111090 Blockhead remix 1lb Paddle spinner (by shultiskevin) 3111090]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4075681 Blue Screen of Death 1lb Horizontal spinner (by chrismik) 4075681]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4885071 CheeseWej 1lb Plastic ant Wedge (by Teamd20) 4885071]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3297944 Doom Stone V1 1lb Plastic Ant Vertical spinner (by kmcelroy) 3297944]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4800332 Eureka 1lb Plastic ant Wedge (by Teamd20) 4800332]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3160354 Flapjack 1lb Drum spinner (by shultiskevin) 3160354]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3793747 Future Killer 1lb Vert drum (by altapowderdog) 3793747]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675230 Half-SMEEEEEEEEEEEE 1lb long split wedge (by TheN00b) 4675230]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4910548 LifeSteal 1lb Plastic Ant Horiz spinner (by Posey) 4910548]<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88678-3d-printed-verticle-disc-spinner-combat-robot Mega Looon V1 1lb Vertical spinner (by thesaxmachine)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2828234 MI 1lb spinner (by RattlerRobotics) 2828234]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3170974 Mr. Roomba 1lb Plastic Ant Ring spinner (by Kylellrc) 3170974]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1401358 Mr. Twister 1lb (incl. Plastic ant option) Vertical Spinner (by AdamDC) 1401358]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2813722 Plastique 1lb Shell spinner (by AdamDC) 2813722]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3962507 Simple 1lb Wedge demobot (by mightygrom) 3962507]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3819420 Tiger Shark V5 1lb Horizontal spinner (by thesaxmachine) 3819420]<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88673-antweight-horizontal-bar-spinner-tiger-shark-v6 Tiger Shark V6 1lb Horizontal spinner (by thesaxmachine)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843171 WejFu 1lb Plastic Ant Wedge (by Teamd20) 4843171]<br />
<br />
=====3lb Class (≈1.36kg) =====<br />
US Beetleweight class.<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88674-mega-don-g-version-2-beetle-weight-combat-robot Mega Don G V2 3lb Plow (by thesaxmachine)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3731962 Munchkin 3lb Drum spinner (by Creative_Instigation) 3731962]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3179067 Rapid Unscheduled Disassembly Mk6 3lb Undercutter spinner (by TeamMagicalLipoFire) 3179067]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3917039 Vector 3lb Horizontal spinner (by Endbots) 3917039]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4741317 Vertex 3lb vert spinner (by Proxy303) 4741317]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4241833 Vertigo 3lb bot (by Insertbattlebotsjokehere) 4241833]<br />
<br />
=====1.5kg Class (≈3.3lb) =====<br />
UK Beetleweight class.<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4232399 Deadlift 1.5kg bot (by Noursicus) 4232399]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4230265 Plastic Donk - 1.5kg Wedge (by Noursicus) 4230265]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5022333 Razor 1.5kg Horiz saw (by AlexKorvin) 5022333]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4967207 Wall Chaser 1.5kg Vertical saw (by AlexKorvin) 4967207]<br />
<br />
=====Weight not specified=====<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3160993 Mars Attacks (itself) (by shultiskevin) 3160993]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1688510 Combat Robot 2.0 Drum spinner (by altapowderdog) 1688510]</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Insect_Class_Motors&diff=637Insect Class Motors2022-01-04T04:59:33Z<p>User: </p>
<hr />
<div>More Detail Needed for this page<br />
<br />
Size and weight are always considerations when selecting motors, and it is especially true with insect class robots. Also as with all robot combats think about the nature of your motors. Are they simply meant to deliver the weapon to the opponent or are they an integral part in your attack strategy. Take a look at the available kits to get an idea on how things are typically done. Wedge bots often have four independent motors, while drum bots save weight by having two drive motors.<br />
<br />
<br><br />
22mm motors are common in 3lb robots with two being enough to drive a weaponed bot and four working well for a wedge or pushy bot. Brushed versions of 22mm motors are available from placeslike botkits.com but more advanced builders will convert them to brushless setups. This gives them more power for less weight than the brushed versions. <br><br />
[https://gitlab.com/alexmordue/saw-loser/-/blob/master/BRUSHLESS22MM.md How to make brushless 22mm planetary gear motors]<br />
<br><br />
[[File:InsectMotors.jpg]]<br />
<br><br />
Although some motor resellers provide CAD files for their motors, over at GrabCAD a builder created a [https://grabcad.com/library/popular-insect-drive-motor-size-comparison-1 useful grouping of common motors].<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
This needs to be built-out with links. Should we do dedicated pages with links to places to get them, since some have multiple sources.<br />
<br><br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|+ Insect Motors<br />
|-<br />
! Name !! Diameter !! Length !! Weight !! Shaft !! Voltage !! RPM !! Comments<br />
|-<br />
| N20 || 12mm || || 10g || 3mm || 3v, 6v, 12v | Variable || Variable || Common in 150g bots<br />
|-<br />
| 16mm || 16mm || 40.3mm || 28g || 3mm || 6v || Variable || Common in 1lb bots<br />
|-<br />
| 22mm || 22mm || 47.5mm || 73g || 4mm || 12v || 780 || Common in 3lb bots<br />
|-<br />
|KitBots Beetle Motor ||24.8mm || 49.3mm || 85g || 4mm || 12v || 930 || XXX<br />
|}</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Robots&diff=632Robots2021-12-30T02:44:58Z<p>User: A few edits</p>
<hr />
<div>==Robots==<br />
There are literally thousands of robots, way too many to list out on this Wiki. You can search robots on RobotCombatEvents.com or BuildersDB.com. Groups of robots are typically divided into [https://robotcombatwiki.com/wiki/RobotClasses <strong>weight classes</strong>], but individual robots are typically associated with a builder or a team.<br><br />
<br />
Builders should feel free to add their robot to the list below.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|+ Robots and Teams<br />
|-<br />
! Robot Name !! Weight Class !! Team<br />
|-<br />
| Robot Name || Weight Class || Team Name <br />
|-<br />
| Robot Name || Weight Class || Team Name<br />
|-<br />
| Robot Name || Weight Class || Team Name<br />
|-<br />
| [[https://robotcombatwiki.com/wiki/Teams/DeathByMonkeys/DeathByMonkeys Death By Monkeys]] || Lightweight || [[https://robotcombatwiki.com/wiki/Teams/DeathByMonkeys Team Death By Monkeys]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
* Robot List</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Speed_Reduction&diff=629Speed Reduction2021-12-21T04:07:48Z<p>User: Added some details, needs more</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Optimizing Speed ==<br />
For nearly all applications, motors spin faster than is optimal. Although speed can be important, in most cases the added torque gained via speed reduction is needed to get the performance you are looking for.<br />
=== Optimizing Drive Speed ===<br />
How fast should you be? Speed vs. Pushing<br />
Learning to drive<br />
Robotic Legend has created a [https://roboticlegends.org/buildingtips/drivesystems/how-to-calculate-speed-based-on-wheel-speed-tire-diameter/ nice tutorial on how to calculate speed]. <br />
<br />
=== Optimizing Weapon Speed ===<br />
'''Spin up time''' is as important, if not more important than how fast a spinning weapon spins at top speed. If your weapon takes too long to spin up, an aggressive opponent will make contact with your slow moving weapon without taking damage. Typically you want to be able to reach 90% of your top speed in 3 seconds or less. Quick spin up times can be even more important in the small weight classes where small arenas mean you are never far from your opponent. <br />
<br />
In some smaller robot classes that can get away with direct drives for their weapons but typically the motor shaft won't be robust enough to survive weapon impacts. In most larger robots and many small ones, direct drive weapons are too fragile and you will want to transfer the motor speed to a weapon shaft via gears, belts, or chains. This transfer of power from the motor to the weapon-shaft is an opportunity to adjust the weapon speed to find the right balance between spin-up time and top speed.<br />
<br><br />
===Top speed===<br />
'''Faster is always better''' isn't always true. Although high speed is needed to make the robots weapon destructive, spinning the weapon too fast has some downsides. Gyroscopic forces can make turning the robot difficult, and some weapon designs like drumbs or disks may have difficulty 'biting' into an opponent. Also, some events or robot-classes such as sportsman robots may have rule limitations on weapon top-speed.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
== Gears ==<br />
Although rarely used in weapons, gears are a popular choice with drive systems. <br />
Pros<br />
Cons<br />
<br />
== Chains ==<br />
Chains are a highly efficient way to transfer power.<br />
Pros<br />
Cons<br />
<br />
== Belts ==<br />
Belts are a light-weight solution for transfering power.<br />
Pros<br />
Cons<br />
<br />
== Friction ==<br />
Friction can be simple to impliment but it has a lot of downsides and isn't common in robot combat.<br />
Pros<br />
Cons</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=VESC&diff=628VESC2021-12-19T15:24:45Z<p>User: Some formatting and edits + added image</p>
<hr />
<div>VESC is an open source ESC (electric speed controller), it's named by its creator, Benjamin Vedder, Vedder's ESC. <br />
VESC controllers have become very popular in the electric skateboard community and have proven to be very capable in driving larger robots.<br />
Given that it is an open source platform, you will need to do a bit of work to configue them for your needs. <br />
There are several quality guides including [http://www.emmanuelcarrillo.com/blog/beginners-guide-to-programming-vesc-for-robot-drive this one from Emmanuel Carillio].<br />
More Information on [https://www.facebook.com/groups/238151986542667?multi_permalinks=1556339264723926&hoisted_section_header_type=recently_seen this FB thread]. <br />
<br><br />
[[File:VESC.jpg|thumb|VESC]]<br />
# First you'll need to get the VESC tool from the [https://www.vesc-project.com/vesc_tool VESC Project]. The Free version of the download works fine but you can support the open source effort by paying for the software.<br />
# Connect the VESC to the motor, receiver, and batteries you want to use. Make sure the lights on the VESC are on then connect the VESC to the computer via a USB cable. Once the VESC Tool is open, click the Connect button. <br />
# The first time you connect to a VESC it will ask for a firmware upgrade. Although things can sometimes work with old firmware, you should upgrade it if you can. The VESC Tool will already have selected the correct firmware for your device so there's no need to select any manually. The firmware upgrad can take a few minutes so be patient. After the firmware has been upgraded, disconnect the power and start over.<br />
# Once the VESC is connected and the latest firmware version is uploaded, hit the 'Setup Motors FOC' button on the front page. This wizard will take you through the motor setup procedure step by step.<br />
# Select the approximate motor size. Its better to undersize your selection as it is less likely to damage things, but its not super critical to get exactly right. For example 6374 sized motors are medium outrunners. For inrunners, scroll down. Hit next once the correct size is selected.<br />
# Select the number of battery cells. This sets up the low voltage cut off, so don't set it too high. Leave it at the default of 3 cells if you want to disable the low voltage cutoff.<br />
# You can ignore the part that asks you to set up gear ratios and pulley diameters. <br />
# Next, press 'Run Detection (no CAN)' (or 'Run Detection', it makes a minimal difference if you have no CAN bus set up). It will give you a warning saying it’s going to spin the motor. Once you accept it will make some alarming noises and the motor will move around a bunch.<br />
# If all goes well a box will pop up informing you that it was successful and provide a load of motor parameters. If you're running sensors be sure to detect that they were detected correctly. If the sensor wasn't detected, double-check your sensors are connected and functioning correctly. Hit Ok once you are ready. If the motor doesn't spin, and you skipped upgrading the firmware, go back and upgrade it.<br />
# You are then given the option to test which way the motor is spinning and invert the direction if needed. This is also good chance to test that the motor spins as expected in response to your radio. Pressing either Fwd or Rev on your transmitter will spin the motor slowly in either direction. Hit 'Finish' once you are done.<br />
# Press the 'Input Setup Wizard' on the main page and select load default config. Assuming this is a 2wd robot with one motor a side, select 'Single VESC'. When you have >1 motor per side, you can either use CAN bus, which is configured using the other two buttons, or you can set each VESC up seperately and just use the same servo output from the RX with a Y lead.<br />
# Select PPM input for Servo signals. Turn on your transmitter and make sure the RX is connected. Select Duty Cycle mode, click refresh in the bottom right, then move the stick up and down fully. The bars on the bottom right should move with the stick. Once you've done that, let the stick rest in the center, and click Apply<br />
# P{PM Configuration is where you set up how the VESC responds to inputs. For most robot applications you want to use “Duty Cycle” mode, which controls the motor speed with stick position. Next, you want to set 'Median Filter' and 'Safe Start' to 'False'. This allows the VESC to recover immediately after a fault without having to center the sticks. This is vital as a VESC will often flag an error after a current spike from a big spinner hit, so turning these off means it recovers automatically. You also have the option to adjust the ramping time, which is how fast it responds to your stick inputs. Generally, you don't want these to be zero as the controller may lose track of the motor while trying to keep up with the stick movements. 0.2 seconds generally works well for the drive, but larger values can be used for weapons to ensure a reliable spin-up.<br />
Once these are set, hit 'Write Configuration to VESC' and then 'Next' and you are done! The motor should now spin when you move the stick.<br />
In most cases the default setup will be fine and no other settings need changing, but there are a few points worth knowing in case issues crop up. The motor current (which sets the max torque) will be set automatically by the detected parameters and is generally pretty accurate as to the max current the motor can happily handle. You can turn it up a bit but usually this leads to the motor overheating. The 'Absolute Maximum Current' setting is the current at which the controller will flag an error. DON'T TURN THIS DOWN unless you want your robot cutting out all the time.<br />
The -ve motor and battery currents set your regen. Especially with weaponry, its best to turn the -battery current down to around -10A to stop it from charging the batteries to quick and damaging them. Don't set it too low as this can cause a bug where the motor doesn't stop spinning.<br />
<br />
After any changes hit the 'Write Motor Config' button (M with a down arrow in the top right) in order to write the changes to the VESC. <br />
<br />
A common issue is a motor cutting out after quickly throttling up. This is due to the current ramping too quickly and going over the Absolute Max Current limit. To fix this KP and KI can be adjusted. The settings for this are found under the FOC tab, though these apply whether using FOC or BLDC mode. Try increasing KP and KI by 10x, write the motor config and try again. If this improves things keep adjusting around until the motor gets up to full speed consistently without cutting out. There's probably a more scientific method to this, but trial and error is the easiest and has a low risk of damaging things.</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=File:VESC.jpg&diff=627File:VESC.jpg2021-12-19T15:22:16Z<p>User: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=VESC&diff=626VESC2021-12-15T06:45:39Z<p>User: </p>
<hr />
<div>VESC is an open source ESC (electric speed controller), it's named by its creator, Benjamin Vedder, Vedder's ESC. <br />
VESC controllers have become very popular in the electric skateboard community and have proven to be very capable in driving larger robots.<br />
Given that it is an open source platform, you will need to do a bit of work to configue them for your needs. <br />
There are several quality guides including [http://www.emmanuelcarrillo.com/blog/beginners-guide-to-programming-vesc-for-robot-drive this one from Emmanuel Carillio].<br />
More Information on [https://www.facebook.com/groups/238151986542667?multi_permalinks=1556339264723926&hoisted_section_header_type=recently_seen this FB thread]. <br />
<br><br />
* First you'll need to get the VESC tool from the [https://www.vesc-project.com/vesc_tool VESC Project].<br />
* Connect the VESC to the motor, receiver, and batteries you want to use. Make sure the lights on the VESC are on then connect the VESC to the computer via a USB cable. Once the VESC Tool is open, click the Connect button. <br />
* The first time you connect to a VESC it will ask for a firmware upgrade. Although things can sometimes work with old firmware, you should upgrad it if you can. The VESC Tool will already have selected the correct firmware for your device so there's no need to select any manually. The firmware upgrad can take a few minutes so be patient. After the firmware has been upgraded, disconnect the power and start over.<br />
* Once the VESC is connected and the latest firmware version is uploaded, hit the 'Setup Motors FOC' button on the front page. This wizard will take you through the motor setup procedure step by step.<br />
* Select the approximate motor size. Its better to undersize here than over size if you're not sure, as this is less likely to damage things, but its not super critical to get exactly right. For example 6374 sized motors are medium outrunners. For inrunners, scroll down. Hit next once the correct size is selected<br />
* Next step is to select the number of battery cells. This sets up the low voltage cut off, so don't set it too high. You can leave it at the default of 3 cells if you want to effectively disable the low voltage cutoff.<br />
* You can ignore the part that asks you to set up gear ratios and pulley diameters. <br />
* Next, press 'Run Detection (no CAN)' (or 'Run Detection', it makes a minimal difference if you have no CAN bus set up). It will give you a warning saying it’s going to spin the motor. Once you accept it will make some alarming noises and the motor will move around a bunch.<br />
* If all goes well a box will pop up informing you that it was successful and provide a load of motor parameters. If you're running sensors be sure to detect that they were detected correctly (This test was done with a sensorless motor). If they didn't detect, double-check your sensors are connected and functioning correctly. Hit Ok once you are ready. If the motor doesn't spin, and you skipped upgrading the firmware, go back and upgrad it.<br />
*You are then given the option to test which way the motor is spinning and invert the direction if needed. This is also good chance to test that the motor spins as expected. Pressing either Fwd or Rev on your transmitter will spin the motor slowly in either direction. Hit 'Finish' once you are done.<br />
* Press the 'Input Setup Wizard' on the main page and select load default config. Once thats done, the list above will appear. Assuming this is a 2wd robot with one motor a side, select 'Single VESC'. For 4wd or 2 motors per wheel, you can either use CAN bus, which is configured using the other two buttons, or you can set each VESC up seperately and just use the same servo output from the RX with a Y lead.<br />
* Select PPM input for Servo signals. Turn on your transmitter and make sure the RX is connected. Select Duty Cycle mode, click refresh in the bottom right, then move the stick up and down fully. The bars on the bottom right should move with the stick. Once you've done that, let the stick rest in the center, and click Apply<br />
<br />
*P{PM Configuration is where you set up how the VESC responds to inputs. For most robot applications you want to use “Duty Cycle” mode, which controls the motor speed with stick position. Next, you want to set 'Median Filter' and 'Safe Start' to 'False'. This allows the VESC to recover immediately after a fault without having to center the sticks. This is vital as a VESC will often flag an error after a current spike from a big spinner hit or similar, so turning these off means it immediately recovers automatically. You also have the option to adjust the ramping time, which is how fast it responds to your stick inputs. Generally, you don't want these to be zero as the controller may lose track of the motor while trying to keep up with the stick movements. 0.2 seconds generally works well for the drive, but larger values can be used for weapons to ensure a reliable spin-up.<br />
Once these are set, hit 'Write Configuration to VESC' and then 'Next' and you are done! The motor should now spin when you move the stick.<br />
<br />
*In most cases the default setup will be fine and no other settings need changing, but there are a few points worth knowing in case issues crop up. The motor current (which sets the max torque) will be set automatically by the detected parameters and is generally pretty accurate as to the max current the motor can happily handle. You can turn it up a bit but usually this leads to the motor overheating. The 'Absolute Maximum Current' setting is the current at which the controller will flag an error. DON'T TURN THIS DOWN unless you want your robot cutting out all the time.<br />
The -ve motor and battery currents set your regen. Especially with weaponry, its best to turn the -battery current down to around -10A to stop it from charging the batteries to quick and damaging them. Don't set it too low as this can cause a bug where the motor doesn't stop spinning.<br />
<br />
After any changes hit the 'Write Motor Config' button (M with a down arrow in the top right) in order to write the changes to the VESC. <br />
<br />
A common issue is a motor cutting out after quickly throttling up. This is due to the current ramping too quickly and going over the Absolute Max Current limit. To fix this KP and KI can be adjusted. The settings for this are found under the FOC tab, though these apply whether using FOC or BLDC mode. Try increasing KP and KI by 10x, write the motor config and try again. If this improves things keep adjusting around until the motor gets up to full speed consistently without cutting out. There's probably a more scientific method to this, but trial and error is the easiest and has a low risk of damaging things.</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=VESC&diff=625VESC2021-12-15T06:25:37Z<p>User: Added VESC Programming - needs to be cleaned up</p>
<hr />
<div>VESC is an open source ESC (electric speed controller), it's named by its creator, Benjamin Vedder, Vedder's ESC. <br />
VESC controllers have become very popular in the electric skateboard community and have proven to be very capable in driving larger robots.<br />
Given that it is an open source platform, you will need to do a bit of work to configue them for your needs. <br />
There are several quality guides including [http://www.emmanuelcarrillo.com/blog/beginners-guide-to-programming-vesc-for-robot-drive this one from Emmanuel Carillio].<br />
* First you'll need to get the VESC tool from the [https://www.vesc-project.com/vesc_tool VESC Project].<br />
* Connect the VESC to the motor, receiver, and batteries you want to use. Make sure the lights on the VESC are on then connect the VESC to the computer via a USB cable. Once the VESC Tool is open, click the Connect button. <br />
* The first time you connect to a VESC it will ask for a firmware upgrade. Although things can sometimes work with old firmware, you should upgrad it if you can. The VESC Tool will already have selected the correct firmware for your device so there's no need to select any manually. The firmware upgrad can take a few minutes so be patient. After the firmware has been upgraded, disconnect the power and start over.<br />
* Once the VESC is connected and the latest firmware version is uploaded, hit the 'Setup Motors FOC' button on the front page. This wizard will take you through the motor setup procedure step by step.<br />
* Select the approximate motor size. Its better to undersize here than over size if you're not sure, as this is less likely to damage things, but its not super critical to get exactly right. For example 6374 sized motors are medium outrunners. For inrunners, scroll down. Hit next once the correct size is selected<br />
* Next step is to select the number of battery cells. This sets up the low voltage cut off, so don't set it too high. You can leave it at the default of 3 cells if you want to effectively disable the low voltage cutoff.<br />
* You can ignore the part that asks you to set up gear ratios and pulley diameters. <br />
* Next, press 'Run Detection (no CAN)' (or 'Run Detection', it makes a minimal difference if you have no CAN bus set up). It will give you a warning saying it’s going to spin the motor. Once you accept it will make some alarming noises and the motor will move around a bunch.<br />
* If all goes well a box will pop up informing you that it was successful and provide a load of motor parameters. If you're running sensors be sure to detect that they were detected correctly (This test was done with a sensorless motor). If they didn't detect, double-check your sensors are connected and functioning correctly. Hit Ok once you are ready. If the motor doesn't spin, and you skipped upgrading the firmware, go back and upgrad it.<br />
*You are then given the option to test which way the motor is spinning and invert the direction if needed. This is also good chance to test that the motor spins as expected. Pressing either Fwd or Rev on your transmitter will spin the motor slowly in either direction. Hit 'Finish' once you are done.<br />
* Press the 'Input Setup Wizard' on the main page and select load default config. Once thats done, the list above will appear. Assuming this is a 2wd robot with one motor a side, select 'Single VESC'. For 4wd or 2 motors per wheel, you can either use CAN bus, which is configured using the other two buttons, or you can set each VESC up seperately and just use the same servo output from the RX with a Y lead.<br />
* Select PPM input for Servo signals. Turn on your transmitter and make sure the RX is connected. Select Duty Cycle mode, click refresh in the bottom right, then move the stick up and down fully. The bars on the bottom right should move with the stick. Once you've done that, let the stick rest in the center, and click Apply<br />
<br />
*P{PM Configuration is where you set up how the VESC responds to inputs. For most robot applications you want to use “Duty Cycle” mode, which controls the motor speed with stick position. Next, you want to set 'Median Filter' and 'Safe Start' to 'False'. This allows the VESC to recover immediately after a fault without having to center the sticks. This is vital as a VESC will often flag an error after a current spike from a big spinner hit or similar, so turning these off means it immediately recovers automatically. You also have the option to adjust the ramping time, which is how fast it responds to your stick inputs. Generally, you don't want these to be zero as the controller may lose track of the motor while trying to keep up with the stick movements. 0.2 seconds generally works well for the drive, but larger values can be used for weapons to ensure a reliable spin-up.<br />
Once these are set, hit 'Write Configuration to VESC' and then 'Next' and you are done! The motor should now spin when you move the stick.<br />
<br />
*In most cases the default setup will be fine and no other settings need changing, but there are a few points worth knowing in case issues crop up. The motor current (which sets the max torque) will be set automatically by the detected parameters and is generally pretty accurate as to the max current the motor can happily handle. You can turn it up a bit but usually this leads to the motor overheating. The 'Absolute Maximum Current' setting is the current at which the controller will flag an error. DON'T TURN THIS DOWN unless you want your robot cutting out all the time.<br />
The -ve motor and battery currents set your regen. Especially with weaponry, its best to turn the -battery current down to around -10A to stop it from charging the batteries to quick and damaging them. Don't set it too low as this can cause a bug where the motor doesn't stop spinning.<br />
<br />
After any changes hit the 'Write Motor Config' button (M with a down arrow in the top right) in order to write the changes to the VESC. <br />
<br />
A common issue is a motor cutting out after quickly throttling up. This is due to the current ramping too quickly and going over the Absolute Max Current limit. To fix this KP and KI can be adjusted. The settings for this are found under the FOC tab, though these apply whether using FOC or BLDC mode. Try increasing KP and KI by 10x, write the motor config and try again. If this improves things keep adjusting around until the motor gets up to full speed consistently without cutting out. There's probably a more scientific method to this, but trial and error is the easiest and has a low risk of damaging things.</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Switches&diff=611Switches2021-12-11T15:55:00Z<p>User: added details</p>
<hr />
<div>To avoid injury, competition rules for combat robots in most cases require them to be turned off when entering or leaving the combat box or arena. Many also require a power indicating light so people can see if the bot is "live." Check the rules that govern your events before participating.<br />
<br />
==Design Considerations==<br />
*The switch must be direct-acting; it can't be a small switch that turns off a larger, inaccessible relay or contactor.<br />
*Switches that maintain contact through moderate spring pressure may fail or momentarily open if your bot experiences high impacts. This is why maintaining positive contact with screws is so common.<br />
*Normally switches need to be reachable from outside the bot, often with a tool. One thing designers need to consider is how to safely turn off the robot's power while it is active. Remember weapon and drive systems may not be working properly after a match, so place your switch making sure that both your tool (if any) and your hands are far away from moving parts. In larger robots, think about being able to access the switch without having to flip over the robot.<br />
<br />
==No Switch==<br />
If the rules allow it, some people will choose to power-on their robots by simply plugging in their batteries. This approach is only suitable for smaller robots, and often takes additional time with builders trying to secure the wires and closing covers on the bot before their match. It can also make it difficult to turn the robot off if it has sustained damage during the match. This approach can work on a non-weaponed bot but always use a dedicated power switch if your bot has a weapon.<br />
<br />
==Removable Link==<br />
In place of a switch, a removable link (loop of wire, jumper plug, or shorting bar) can be used. This link is pushed into a connector, which is placed where the link can be safely plucked from the robot without tools at the end of the match, or in case of emergency. These are common in UK/EU matches, as they are required by the [[Rules|FRA rules]]. Larger bots may require more than one link on opposite sides of the bot.<br />
<br />
== Power Switches ==<br />
Most people choose some readily available power switches to turn their robots on and off. Although many options will work, some like Hella switches require significant modifications to be suitable for robot combat. Switches designed for robot combat all require some sort of tool to activate. This allows you to activate the switch without having to hold or manipulate your robot. This can be especially important after your match if your robot has taken damage.<br />
<br />
===Nano Power Combat Robotics Switch===<br />
[https://itgresa.com/product/nano-power-switch/ This very simple switch] uses a screw to contact conductive pads to complete the circuit. At <1g, it is suitable for tiny 150g robots and for 1lb robots that don't draw a lot of current.<br />
<br />
===Fingertech===<br />
[[File:FingerTechSwitch.jpg|thumb|Fingertech Switch]]<br />
[https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-mini-switch This tiny 2.15g switch] is extremely popular. It is well built, affordable, and can handle current up to 40 amps, making it suitable for many smaller to medium sized robots. It is activated by a 3/32" hex wrench.<br />
<br />
===Whyachi MS-05===<br />
[[File:WhyachiMS05.jpg|thumb|Whyachi MS-05]]<br />
[http://teamwhyachi.com/switches.html The smaller switch from Team Whyachi] weighs 1oz, making it much too big for insect sized robots, but it will easily handle 140 amps for a 3 minute match making it great for medium sized weapon systems and sometimes, full-sized robot drive systems. It is activated by a 7/64" hex wrench.<br />
<br />
===Whyachi MS-2===<br />
This big switch comes in at 5oz but can handle tremendous amounts of current and is suitable for most large weapon systems. One challenge with these switches is how then handle higher voltages. It takes several turns of the 5/32" hex wrench to make the connection, which can result in electrical arcing and damage to the contacts. There are some high-voltage add-ons which can reduce the problem.<br />
<br />
==Multiple Switches==<br />
The larger the bot, the more likely you will be required to meet strict safety rules regarding switch placement and accessibility. Your bot may need a separate weapons switch, mobility power switch, safety kill switch, and/or control circuits switch, so that only required circuits will be activated at any given time.<br />
<br />
==Power Lights==<br />
How do you know if your bot is powered on? Or more importantly, how does the crew running your event know if your bot is powered on? It is a best practice and a rule in many events events that a power-light indicator is easily visible. The presense of the light can also help troubleshoot some common mistakes such a failing to plug in the battery. As a best practice the power-light should be placed close to the power switch and be easily visible when turning the robot on or off. For small bots, the LEDs on the radio-receiver or control circuits can be made visible through the plastic body or through access holes meaning no seperate power-light is needed. When the internal lights are not visible, you will need to install one separatly. Many bots will have >1 switch due to the seperation of the drive and weapon systems. In these designs, it is important to have a power-light for each circuit.</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Plastic_Antweights&diff=610Plastic Antweights2021-12-07T05:31:09Z<p>User: /* Allowed Plastics */ "Other" category.</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Plastic_Full_Body_Spinner.jpg|thumb|An example of a plastic ant full body spinner]]<br />
'''Plastic Antweights''' <br><br />
In 2015 [http://westernalliedrobotics.com Western Allied Robotics] introduced a new robot class called Plastic Antweights. The robot class has gained popularitity and the [http://sparc.tools/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/SPARC_Robot_Construction_Specifications_v1.3.pdf rules] set has been adopted by [http://sparc.tools/ SPARC].<br />
<br><br />
<br />
The spirit of the Plastic Antweight classe is to have an easy entry point for new builders, and to encourage creative designs by limiting materials to easy-to-work-with plastics that are commonly used in [[3D Printing|3D printers]], which don’t have strength characteristics common in the standard classes. These limitations not only make the class easy to build for, but have encouraged a lot of creative designs which may not have been tried in the full-combat 1lb antweight class. <br />
<br />
It is important to note that plenty of non-plastic materials can be used in parts of the robot class. Foam is allowed for wheels and internal shock absorption. Metal fasteners can be used as long as they don't act as armor or weapon impactors.<br />
<br />
The [[3D Printing]] page lists numerous bot designs on Thingiverse that can be printed, but most events do not require the robots to be printed.<br />
<br />
== Allowed Plastics ==<br />
<br />
===PLA===<br />
PLA is inexpensive, but brittle.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIH-HS-SScY] It is the most common 3D printing filament. It rarely warps in use and is great for tiny parts.[https://shop.prusa3d.com/fotky/PLA_TechSheet_ENG.pdf] It's a great starter material, and recommended for printing prototype parts. Many builders prefer other plastics, especially for their active weapons or armor. Pure PLA is made from cornstarch[https://all3dp.com/2/what-is-pla-plastic-material-properties/] and gives off a corn syrup odor which reminds some people of waffles.<br />
<br />
===PLA+===<br />
Various manufacturers offer "PLA+" and/or "Tough PLA," which are modified PLA filaments that are meant to be less brittle. With an acrylic additive, for instance, it may show much better impact resistance.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo] Inland and eSun claim their PLA+ products are 10x stronger than regular PLA.<br />
<br />
===PET===<br />
PET (Polyethylene terephthalate) is somewhat brittle so it isn't the best choice for robot parts that are likely to receive damage but it is very ridgid and can be useful for parts where rigidity is key. <br />
<br />
===PETG===<br />
PETG (a copolyester) is more heat resistant, more flexible, and less brittle than PLA.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo] It is well suited for 3D printing mechanical parts. Since it is more likely to flex under impact its resilience may be useful to the bot builder, but it is 2-3% heavier than PLA. Observe manufacturer's recommendations when printing, as it tends to stick very strongly to smooth print beds. You'll notice a fairly mild hot-plastic odor when printing.<br />
<br />
===ABS===<br />
ABS is a strong and reasonably impact-resistant material at a moderate price, but warps easily and smells worse while printing. Its low density makes it one of the lightest of all printable plastics (PLA is about 20% heavier for the exact same print). You'll probably need to print it in an enclosure for best results; this keeps its temperature even during printing, so that it only shrinks after printing instead of curling or warping during printing. Many hobbyists ventilate the enclosure to the outdoors with fan(s) due to the odor.<br />
<br />
===OTHER===<br />
Individual events can allow other plastics that meet the intent of the rules. If you are really itching to use another kind of plastic like HIPS, contact your event organizer and see what they say. If you want to use a durable or high performance plastic like nylon, you should just build for the open-ant class.</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Events&diff=609Events2021-12-05T19:58:21Z<p>User: Added an event</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:WAR_Sportsman.jpg|thumb|Sportsman Rumble at WAR]]<br />
=Finding Events=<br />
Most events are listed on the [https://robotcombatevents.com RobotCombatEvents] website. Use the page's [https://www.robotcombatevents.com/searches/new Search] feature and a [https://www.robotcombatevents.com/event_map Map View] to search for events by location; perhaps there's one near you! If you don't see any close by, search for past events to learn which organizations operate nearby, and watch for their next event to be listed.<br />
<br />
=Hosting Events=<br />
So you've got the robot combat bug and you want to host an event. There are a lot of things involved, so before you try it you should attend one to learn how they are run. If you are sure you want to make a poor life choice and host your own event, head over to [http://sparc.tools Sparc.Tools] for a treasure trove of information. The site has guidelines on [http://sparc.tools/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/SPARC_Tournament_Procedures_v1.1.pdf Tournament Procedures], [http://sparc.tools/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/SPARC_Match_Rules_v1.2.pdf Match Rules], [http://sparc.tools/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/SPARC_Judging_Guidelines_v1.1.pdf Judging Guidelines], and [http://sparc.tools/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/SPARC_Arena_Construction_Best_Practices_v1.0.pdf Arena Construction]. Once you've read everything then you need to think about where you'll store the arena, how it will be transported, where you will hold your events, and how will you get help running them. It's a big commitment and if you are ready to do it the rewards can be terrific but know what you are getting yourself into. <br><br><br />
There are some additional resources for event organizers. If you are serious about starting an event (it doesn't need to be a big event), send an email to robotcombatevents@gmail.com to be put into contact with other organizers.<br />
<br />
=Current Event Clubs=<br />
Here is a partial list of robot combat events (click arrows on column headings to sort by name, location, or weight class). These are clubs, organizations and even individuals putting on events worldwide. Many hold multiple events each year. In all cases they should be thanked! Most use either the [[Rules|SPARC or FRA rules]], but if you are [[GettingStarted|planning on competing]], check with each event's organizer for the specific rules they will use.<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|+ Event Organizations<br />
|-<br />
! Event !! State !! City !! Country !! Supported [[RobotClasses|Classes]]<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/AdelaideRobotCombat/permalink/2049861968618530/ Adelaide Robot Combat] || South Australia || Adelaide || AU || 150g<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/alburywodogarobotbattles/ Albury Wodogaro Robot Battles] || New South Wales || Albury || AU || 150g<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.angryroosterrobotics.com/ Angry Rooster Robotics] || Alabama || Huntsville || USA ||1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://antlog.garya.org.uk/ Antweight World Series] || England, occasionally others || Touring event - many locations || UK, occasionally others ||150g<br />
|-<br />
| [http://azroboticcombat.com/ Arizona Robotic Combat] || Arizona || Phoenix || USA ||150g, 1lb 1lb-Plastic, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/2172601139696740 Backwoods Combat Robots] || Tennessee || Chapel Hill || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.battlebots.com/ Battlebots] || California ||Los Angeles || USA || 250lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057054446012 Bay Area Robotic Combat] || California || Richmond || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/Bayside-Robotics-104627878106463/ Bayside Robotics] || Delaware ||Newark || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/Beetleweight/ BeetleBelt] || England || Burgess Hill || UK || 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://botgeddon.com/ Bot'Geddon] || California || Rocklin || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.botbrawl.ca/ Bot Brawl] || Ontario || Mississauga || CA || 1lb, 3lb, 30lb-Sumo, 150-Sumo<br />
|-<br />
| [http://antlog.garya.org.uk/ Bot Fest] || England || Liverpool || UK || 150g<br />
|-<br />
| [https://bristolbotbuilders.com/events.html Bristol Bot Builders] || England || Bristol || UK || 150g, 3lb, 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/Budget-Bot-Builders-112263420944455 Budget Bot Builders] || Colorado || Colorado Springs || USA || 150g<br />
|-<br />
| [https://bugglebots.com/ BuggleBots] || England || Bristol || UK || 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.carolinacombat.com/ Carolina Combat Robots] || North Carolina || Hickory || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.circpeoria.org/ Central Illinois Robotics Club] || Illinois || Peoria || USA || 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/ColoradoCombatRobotics Colorado Combat Robotics] || Colorado || Denver || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb, 30lb-Sportsman<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/CombatRobotNZ Combat Robotics NZ] || Auckland || Grafton || NZ || 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/437521800412767/ Combat Robots of Oklahoma] || Oklahoma || Tulsa || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://athena.ecs.csus.edu/~comprobo/Events.html Competitive Robotics at Sacramento State] || California || Sacramento || USA || 1lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.dutchrobotgames.nl/ Dutch Robot Games] || Gelderland || Ulft || NL || 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://mad-metal-machines.de/ German Roboteers Association] || Lower Saxony || Hannover || DE || 150g, 1lb, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.hacr.us/ Houston Area Combat Robotics] || Texas || Houston || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://ipswichroboticssportsgroup.wordpress.com Ipswich Robotics Sport Group] || Queensland || Brisbane || AU || 150g, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://makerspacect.com/makerbattle/ MakerspaceCT] || Connecticut || Hartford || USA || 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://macrobot.us/ Macrobot.us] || Maryland || Baltimore || USA || 1lb-Plastic<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/events/216270486988808/ Melbourne Combat Robotics] || Victoria || Melbourne || AU || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.mtras.com/ Middle Tennessee Robotics Art Society] || Tennessee || Nashville || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| Minnesota Combat Robotics || Minnesota || Eagan || USA || 150g, 1lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/missourirobotfights/ Missouri Robot Fights] || Missouri || Joplin || USA || 1lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://gonrl.org National Robotics League] || Various || Various || USA || 15lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.nerc.us North East Robotics Club] || Pennsylvania || Harrisburg || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb, 30lb-Sportsman<br />
|-<br />
| [https://50day.io/mediawiki/index.php/Norwalk_Havoc_Robot_League Norwalk Havoc Robot League] || Connecticut || Norwalk || USA || 3lb, 12lb, 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.ohiorobotclub.com/ Ohio Robotics Club] || Ohio || Sandusky || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb, 6lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.osubattlebots.org/ Oregon State Combat Robotics] || Oregon || Corvallis || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/QueenslandRoboticsSportsClub Queensland Robotics Sports Club] || Queensland || - || AU || -<br />
|-<br />
| [https://events.robocore.net/ RoboCore] || Minas Gerais || Santa Rita do Sapucaí || BR || 150g, 1lb, 3lb, 30lb, 60lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/RobodojoUK/ RoboDojo] || England || York || UK || 150g, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.robotbattles.com/ Robot Battles] || Georgia || Atlanta || USA || 1lb, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.makemia.com/robot-riot Robot Riot] || Florida || West Palm Beach || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://robotruckus.org/ Robot Ruckus] || Florida || Orlando || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb, 220lb-Sportsman<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.robowars.org/ Robowars Australia] || Queensland || Brisbane || AU || 30lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://kilobots.com/ Saskatoon Combat Robotics Club] || Saskatchewan || Saskatoon || CA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/smashbotz Smashbotz] || California || Los Angeles || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb, 12lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.facebook.com/groups/640098953444052 Southern California Attack Robotics] || California || Walnut || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb, 12lb, 15lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://texasrobotcombat.com/ Texas Robot Combat] || Texas || Dallas || USA || 150g, 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.utahcombatrobotics.com/ Utah Combat Robotics] || Utah || Salt Lake City || USA || 1lb, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [http://vegascombatrobotics.com/ Vegas Combat Robotics] || Nevada || Las Vegas || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb<br />
|-<br />
| [https://westernalliedrobotics.com Western Allied Robotics] || Washington || Seattle || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb, 12lb, 30lb-Sportsman<br />
|-<br />
| [https://https://discord.gg/hzvM5zQURg Wisconsin Robot Combat] || Wisconsin || Oconomowoc || USA || 150g, 1lb, 1lb-Plastic, 3lb<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Past Event Pages==<br />
These events are no longer active<br />
* [https://robogames.net Robogames: 150g to 220lb and more in the San Francisco Bay region]<br />
* [https://botblast.webs.com/ Bot Blast: 1lb and 3lb in Bloomburg Pennsylvania]</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=Radios&diff=608Radios2021-12-05T18:17:34Z<p>User: /* Common problems */ - Added details to Problems Section</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:RC_Transmitter.jpg|thumb|Dual-stick transmitter]]<br />
Combat robots usually use R/C hobby radio equipment.[http://runamok.tech/RunAmok/radio_func.html] This includes:<br />
*A '''transmitter (Tx)''', the part that the driver/operator of the bot holds. It sends your instructions to the robot.<br />
*A '''receiver (Rx)''' module in the robot to receive your instructions and operate the devices on the bot.<br />
**The receiver module has multiple outputs to connect to those devices. The standard device is a servomotor (servo) for moving things. You can also use adapters, such as [[ESCs]], to make outputs for turning things (like wheels).<br />
**There are combination Rx and ESC available for building small bots and other RC devices.<br />
<br />
Many transmitters only work with a few models of receiver. The receiver must be bound (paired) with the transmitter for them to communicate. Most transmitters sold today can be set up to bind to multiple devices, so a single one can operate multiple robots, one at a time.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
'''Follow directions to safely switch on or off your radio equipment without accidentally activating your robot’s devices.'''<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
=Choosing a Radio=<br />
[[File:FlySkyNoble.jpg|thumb|Pistol transmitter]]<br />
When choosing a radio there are many things to consider but there are three fundamental things that will drive your choice.<br />
*'''Safety:''' Runaway robots can be dangerous, so it is critical that your radio system properly handles what is known as a '''Failsafe''' situation. When the robot loses signal from the transmitter, the receiver must stop all movement and turn off weapons. (Many events require that the radio be turned off while people are in the arena to insure that the robot isn't moved accidentally by a person.) Not all radios have a failsafe feature, and many must be set up or programmed for the correct behavior. For instance, aircraft receivers may continue flying or attempt to land if the transmitter signal is lost.<br />
*'''Form factor:''' You may have a preference on the form factor of your radio transmitter. The pistol-grip types have a throttle trigger and steering wheel, and may be easier to learn, though some people feel they lack fine control. Dual-stick radios are generally the most flexible and often have switches which can be programmed for special operations. Transmitters in the shape of game controllers are increasingly common; you may find this type to be more familiar to operate, and the controls may require very short movements. With time and enough practice, the differences between types may become insignificant. See also: '''[http://runamok.tech/RunAmok/pistol.html Using Pistol Grip Transmitters with Robot Speed Controllers]'''<br />
*'''Functionality:''' Each robot's requirements are different. A simple wedge robot may only need two channels with a third channel enabling a weapon, but some robot designs need even more channels or other radio programming features. If your ESC doesn't have built-in mixing you'll need to find a radio that can do tank-steering [[Radios/Mixing|Mixing]]. See also: '''[http://runamok.tech/RunAmok/radio_func.html Combat Robot Radio Systems - what functions do you actually need?]'''<br />
<br />
If you are looking to purchase a radio, take a look at the '''[[Radio List|list of radios]]''' that are known to be suitable for robot combat.<br />
<br />
=Common problems=<br />
Since the radio receiver passes signals to the robot's '''[[ESCs|Electronic Speed Controllers]]''' to drive the robot's functions, it can sometimes be difficult to determine if the problem is with the radio or the ESC. To make troubleshooting easier, solutions to common problems that affect the whole system are described here.<br />
<br />
Team Run Amok's '''[http://runamok.tech/AskAaron/radio_guides.html Ask Aaron]''' site is a good resource for additional information and troubleshooting.<br />
<br />
''This section needs additional details.''<br />
<br />
*'''Failsafe:''' What does your receiver do when it loses its signal? Some inexpensive radio systems will act unpredictably with signal loss, while other systems will continue on with their last good signal until they can reconnect. This 'continue' behavior can be useful for some RC systems but can be dangerous for robot combat. Check out the '''[[Radio List|radio list]]''' for systems that can be set up to failsafe appropriately. If your radio system can't failsafe then most events will not allow it, especially for bots that have active weapons. It's important to remember that often the radio defaults will not work correctly and you will need to adjust them.<br />
*'''Signal Loss:''' With modern radios, signal loss isn't a common problem but there are steps you can take to ensure your radio signal stays strong. If your receiver has an antenna, position it as close to the exterior of the robot. The most effective way to improve signal strength is to place the radio receiver next to a non-metalic section of the robot's exterior. Having a small panel of UHMW or Lexan plastic will reduce the liklihood of your radio signal not reaching the receiver.<br />
*'''Not Binding / Connecting:''' <br />
*'''Compatibility:''' There are several radio protocols and some specific radio-brand differences which make even Rx and Tx combos on the same protocol incompatible. Your only real option in these situations is to find a receiver that is compatible.<br />
*'''Too Responsive:''' Most radios have settings that can be adjusted to set the robots responsiveness to where you want it. The two main settings are end-points and the exponential curve. Typically end-points are set to +/- 100% but they can be reduced to make full-position control on your transmitter result in reduced output on the bot. A common strategy is to reduce steering end-points to make controlling the robot easier, while keeping the throttle end-points at 100% so maximum speed isn't affected. The exponential curve setting is set to linear by default, which means that the signal set to the receiver is proportional to what you do on the transmitter. The curve can be adjusted to make it more (or less) responsive at the begining of the tranmitter control movement.<br />
*'''Controls Reversed:''' The 'channel mixing' that allows a single transmitter stick to control forward/reverse motion as well as left/right rotation involves the coordination of multiple robot components. Errors in mixing set-up are common and may result in the robot failing to respond to stick inputs in the expected manner. These set-up errors can be difficult to identify and correct. The '''[http://runamok.tech/RunAmok/mixfix4.html Team Run Amok Mixer Fixer]''' will sort out your response symptoms and provide specific instructions to restore correct stick response.<br />
*'''Only one motor responds:''' <br />
*'''Robot hums or whines:''' The ESC neutral position and your radio's neutral position aren't always the same. Although some ESCs can be calibrated to set the neutral position, some don't have this functionality. When this mis-match happens, the robot doesn't get enough signal to move but will hum or whine. This can usually be fixed by adjusting the tri setting on the transmitter. It can take some fiddling to get the trim set properly, especially if both the throttle and steering trims need to be adjusted. Additionally, the issue can be worse with a freshly charged battery which can mean the robot will hum or whine when it is initially turned on, even after the trims have been adjusted.<br />
*'''Robot won't stop moving:''' Similar to the Robot Hums or Whines problem, this problem happens when the neutral point on your radio is misaligned with the neutral point on your ESC. Adjust the throttle and steering trims to address the issue. You'll need to redo your fail-safe configuration after adjusting your trims to make the fail-safe work properly.<br />
<br />
=Radio features and their uses=<br />
If you decide to study all the features of a radio control system, you'll run into language peculiar to those hobbies. Here is a guide to some of the abilities and specs your transmitter and receiver may have, and how they might be useful in robot combat.<br />
<br />
*'''Number of channels''' refers to the number of devices that can be operated remotely. Most modern radios have 6 or more, which is fine. A 3 channel truck transmitter might be adequate for a pusher bot only.<br />
*'''Channel mixing''' can break out the motion of 1 stick into 2 motors, allowing 1-stick steering. See [[Radios/Mixing]].<br />
*'''Model memory''' stores a list of robots; they can all have different settings, and you can control any of them with one transmitter.<br />
*'''Reversing''' means the transmitter can command motion in the opposite direction. Some transmitters can be programmed to reverse direction of motion with a switch; if your bot still moves while upside-down, flicking this switch lets you operate the bot with the same stick motions instead of with backwards motions.<br />
*'''Trim''' adjusts the center point of controls. In particular, when a joystick is released and springs back to the center position, proper trim means that the Tx will send a neutral signal.<br />
*'''Sub trim''' adjusts the center point of receiver outputs. You might need that to make sure ESCs shut off when the Tx sends a neutral signal, or to set a default weapon position.<br />
*'''Dual rate (rate limit)''' lets you switch on or off a lower-speed, more sensitive motion mode. This could be used to set a speed limit on a "hot" high-speed bot, but still allow a skilled driver to access its maximum performance.<br />
*'''End point adjust''' sometimes called 'ATV' or 'Travel Adjust' - sets travel maximums for a servo or limits an ESC speed output. Examples: can set the perfect level for the tip of the lifter to glide across the arena floor, or reduce a motor speed a bit to match the motor on the other side.<br />
*'''Exponential rate (expo)''' changes the response curve of your joysticks. Changing from linear to exponential response could help you move or steer with precision using short joystick actions, with rapidly increasing speed the farther you push the joystick.<br />
*'''Telemetry''' lets the transmitter receive data from the receiver, and display it or give an audio signal. The most advanced combat robots report things like battery status, overheating parts, electronic overload, and other useful info from the bot to help the team shape their strategy during a fight.<br />
*'''Trainer''' features let you link two transmitters together. This was originally designed to allow for a pilot and an instructor to share the task of flying aircraft. In combat robotics, the trainer feature can be used to let two people control a bot with different roles (e.g., driver & weapon) using two transmitters. (While some bot teams use trainer features, others have two or more separate, non-linked sets of transmitters and receivers for the same purpose.)<br />
<br />
=Programming a radio=<br />
<br />
*'''[http://runamok.tech/RunAmok/flysky_i6.html Programming the FlySky FS-i6 Transmitter for Combat Robotics]'''<br />
<br />
*'''[http://runamok.tech/RunAmok/taranisQX7.html Programming the Taranis Q X7 Transmitter for Combat Robotics]'''</div>Userhttp://robotcombatwiki.com/index.php?title=3D_Printing&diff=6073D Printing2021-12-04T02:41:57Z<p>User: /* 150g Combat Robots */ Added 1</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Original-prusa-i3-mk3s-3d-printer.jpg|thumb|Desktop 3D printer]]<br />
3D printers produce plastic parts under computer control. The process of 3D printing is especially useful for the smaller insect-class bots, where weight is a severe limitation to design. However, even Heavyweight-class builders use 3D printing to make composite reinforced components, custom compartment insulators, and wire guides. Keeping electrical parts and cables away from metal plates and sharp edges reduces the risk of damage and short circuits.<br />
<br />
3D Printing is widely used in one specialized division of combat robotics, the [[Plastic Antweights|Plastic Ants]] class, where the chassis and weapons (if any) must be made of plastic in order to qualify.<br />
<br />
If you don't own a 3D printer, you may be able to get help from your local library or makerspace, or from your fellow bot-builders. Some people will want to design their own bots, which requires knowledge of 3D modeling using a computer or app for the purpose. Others will choose to download a premade design (see below). Once you've got a bot design working to your satisfaction, you can print a supply of replacement plastic parts, which can be used for repairs after your bot becomes damaged.<br />
<br />
=Selecting a Printer=<br />
<br />
Selecting a printer for 3D printing a combat robot can be a big decision, and here are some factors to think about when purchasing your printer.<br />
<br />
==Budget==<br />
Desktop and office 3D Printers can range from as low as $150 to over $10,000 depending on their hardware, capabilities, build volume, and other factors. Here's a quick overview of what's available:<br />
*'''Budget-friendly/hobbyist 3D printers:''' Range from $150 - $750, normally limited in materials and build volume. These include machines like the Creality Ender 3 series, and will normally have a maximum nozzle temperature of 245-250° Celsius. These machines are meant for printing PLA, PETG, and ABS, but with varying degrees of modification can print more advanced materials like Nylon and TPU.<br />
*'''Advanced materials printers:''' Range from $750 - $3,000, and are capable of printing materials like PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, Nylon, Nylon Composites, and Polycarbonate blends with minimal or no aftermarket modifications. These will have a maximum nozzle temperature around 295-300° Celsius.<br />
*'''Engineering grade printers:''' Range from $3,000 - $10,000+, with few materials outside of their capabilities. These printers are often able to print not only advanced materials but also multiple materials using multiple extruders or multiple tool heads, allowing for even greater complexity. Dual extrusion can allow for a multi-color part (Black PLA/White PLA), multi-material finished product (PLA/PETG), or soluble support material like PVA/BCOH.<br />
<br />
=Printable Filaments and Materials=<br />
The materials that a FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication]) 3D printer can extrude must melt at a given temperature, maintain a consistent flow of material through the nozzle, and solidify in a consistent fashion. These materials include thermoplastics, waxes, and even chocolate! With specialized printers it is possible to use such materials as ceramics, glass, and concrete.<br />
<br />
Most 3D prints in combat robotics will be made from rolls of plastics and plastic composites on an FDM printer. "Resin" printers are becoming more common in larger sizes at budget-friendly prices, and more options for resins are available to purchase on a regular basis.<br />
<br />
The list of common 3D printable plastics below proceeds roughly from weakest to strongest.<br />
===PLA===<br />
PLA is inexpensive, but brittle.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIH-HS-SScY] It is the most common 3D printing filament. It rarely warps in use and is great for tiny parts.[https://shop.prusa3d.com/fotky/PLA_TechSheet_ENG.pdf] It's a great starter material, and recommended for printing prototype parts. Many builders prefer other plastics, especially for their active weapons or armor. Pure PLA is made from cornstarch[https://all3dp.com/2/what-is-pla-plastic-material-properties/] and gives off a corn syrup odor which reminds some people of waffles.<br />
<br />
===PLA+===<br />
Various manufacturers offer "PLA+" and/or "Tough PLA," which are modified PLA filaments that are meant to be less brittle. With an acrylic additive, for instance, it may show much better impact resistance.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo] Inland and eSun claim their PLA+ products are 10x stronger than regular PLA.<br />
<br />
===PETG===<br />
PETG (a copolyester) is more heat resistant, more flexible, and less brittle than PLA.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo] It is well suited for 3D printing mechanical parts. Since it is more likely to flex under impact its resilience may be useful to the bot builder, but it is 2-3% heavier than PLA. Observe manufacturer's recommendations when printing, as it tends to stick very strongly to smooth print beds. You'll notice a fairly mild hot-plastic odor when printing.<br />
<br />
===ABS===<br />
ABS is a strong and reasonably impact-resistant material at a moderate price, but warps easily and smells worse while printing. Its low density makes it one of the lightest of all printable plastics (PLA is about 20% heavier for the exact same print). You'll probably need to print it in an enclosure for best results; this keeps its temperature even during printing, so that it only shrinks after printing instead of curling or warping during printing. Many hobbyists ventilate the enclosure to the outdoors with fan(s) due to the odor.<br />
<br />
===Nylon===<br />
Nylon is tough and flexible. Regular nylon is hygroscopic and must be kept in dry storage, or it will absorb moisture from the air and become spoiled after a few weeks. Consider buying a hybrid nylon material that doesn't require as much attention to storage.<br />
<br />
===PC===<br />
Polycarbonate is super strong - your robot arena walls are probably made from it! Many printers can't print it, though, because it must be heated to an extreme temperature (about 275°C/525°F).<br />
<br />
===CF Materials===<br />
Carbon-fiber reinforced materials are extremely tough, and ideal for combat robotics. These are usually polycarbonate or nylon with chopped fibers embedded inside. You should strongly consider using these when plastic parts are needed for beetleweight designs.[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9hUcqsNJco] This material requires a hardened printing nozzle, as the carbon-fiber strands or particles are highly abrasive.<br />
<br />
=Tips and Best Practices=<br />
*Nearly all 3D printers can handle PLA and PLA+. Most other materials require printing onto a heated surface (the "print bed"). Check the specifications and instructions of your printer to find out what materials it can handle.<br />
*A basic limitation of 3D printed parts is that they can crack or break apart along layer lines, since they are made from layers of plastic. Generally, the tougher the plastic the more likely the layers will also hold together.<br />
*Pay attention to the orientation of parts on the print bed - consider orienting parts so that the direction that needs to be the strongest lies horizontal during printing.<br />
*You can make adjustments each time you print. Thicker walls (shells) and a higher percentage of infill add density and strength to your bot, but also increase weight. Remember to re-weigh your bot after changes have been made.<br />
<br />
=Robots you can Print=<br />
You can download and print robot designs from sites like [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] and [https://www.prusaprinters.org/ Prusaprinters]. Just 3D print the robot body and other provided parts, then assemble them with the working parts of the robot. Some have helpful instructions and buying suggestions for finishing the working parts; however, some have little or no guidance, and you will need some experience to try them.<br />
<br />
Below are links to over 80 bot designs that have been shared by the robot building community. Limited consideration has been given to whether each of these is buildable, or will meet the stated [[RobotClasses|weight class]].<br />
<br />
===150g Combat Robots===<br />
150g bots are in the US Fairyweight weight class (Antweight in the UK, EU, and Australia).<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022477 150g 4WD Brickbot (by ACE_ROBOTICS) 3022477]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3186849 150g Flipper (by emancarrillo) 3186849]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3811105 150g Hammer (by emancarrillo) 3811105]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5154492 150g Hapire (by baker01t) 5154492]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4094199 150g Horiz spinner (by emancarrillo) 4094199]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2435280 150g Lifter (by Flaronk) 2435280]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4743535 150g N20-powered Flipper (by JairEmia) 4743535]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4901799 150g N20-powered Hammer or Flipper (by JairEmia) 4901799]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103348 150g Pusher (by beardedowen) 2103348]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3906492 150g Remixed Hammer (by Tom_Dreyfus) 3906492]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4627536 150g Suplex bot (by emancarillo) 4627536]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4330363 150g Wedge (by Technick007) 4330363]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3204827 A Bit Pushy 150g pusher (by FalconFPV) 3204827]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022464 ACE 150g (by ACE_ROBOTICS) 3022464]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168573 Aionia Timoria 150g Drum spinner (by drcameron) 3168573]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431621 A Little Obvious 150g Angled spinner (by Team Panic) 3431621]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3815539 Ant Freeze V2 150g wedge (by Zanbots) 3815539]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3810730 Baby Shark 150g Wedge (by thesaxmachine) 3810730]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3146568 Backlash 1lb Horizontal spinner (by clingmanr) 3146568]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4616666 Big Flip 150g Flipper (by SiegelRacing) 4616666]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4693024 Big Sup 150g Suplex bot (by SiegelRacing) 4693024]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805613 Blackspin 150g Drum spinner (by JC2017) 2805613]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341761 Blind Spot 150g Dustpan bot (by Team Panic) 3341761]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812197 Blockhead 150g Beater bar (by earthwormjim) 2812197]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4623536 Bulldog 150g Vertical spinner (by Bribro12) 4623536]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3195078 Crabulon 150g shufflebot (by Drogg) 3195078]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1215069 Dynamo 150g Wedge (by Pyrotron) 1215069]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3752142 escoBAR 150g based on Shrapnel (by ninja_drift) 3752142]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3039761 Firestorm 125% 32mm wheel 150g N20 version (by FalconFPV) 3039761]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2927678 Firestorm Micro 150g N20 version (by AdamDC) 2927678]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1665299 Firestorm (Original) 150g Flipper (by alexmordue) 1665299]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5136959 Fork Fairy 150g Wedge (by JairEmia) 5136959]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4352090 Front Flip 150g Flipper (by Fryddog) 4352090]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4268191 Front Flipper 150g Flipper (by emancarrillo) 4268191]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281243 Grabbybot 150g Grab and Lift (by emancarillo) 4281243]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3323762 Graboid 150g Grabber (by JC2017) 3323762]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4868890 Grabthar 150g modular (by Aldwin) 4868890]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3707013 Guestimate 150g Horiz spinner (by Team Panic) 3707013]<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/7786-halloween-robot Halloween Pumpkin 150g (by NoLiver92)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4240015 Hello Trouble 150g Bar spinner (by Stonecreekturnings) 4240015]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4325008 HugsEy 150g Grab and Lift (OLD) (by SiegelRacing) 4325008]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1816540 Inspired by Carbide 150g Horizontal spinner (by alexmordue) 1816540]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4308902 Kraken 150g Crusher (by emancarrillo) 4308902]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2989490 Loader 150g Wedge (by HarryMakesThings) 2989490]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4866523 LowMow 150g Undercutter (by JC2017) 4866523]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2945303 Mega London 150g Lifter (by thesaxmachine) 2945303]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3341738 Microdot 150g Triple wedge (by Team Panic) 3341738]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1800795 Rollcage 150g Wedge (by fryddog) 1800795]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4297430 Scrapper 150g wedge (by Fryddog) 4297430]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4789416 Servo Drive 150g Hammerbot (by WitchdoctorbyKO) 4789416]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1692075 Shrapnel 150g Spinner (by Fryddog) 1692075]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115202 Shrapnel Mk3 150g Spinner (by Fryddog) 3115202]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168636 Shredder 150g Spinner based on Shrapnel (by drcameron) 3168636]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168700 Siren 150g Drum spinner (by drcameron) 3168700]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054276 Slightly Crude 150g Wedge (by Team Panic) 2054276]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4311761 Spike 150g wedge (by Fryddog) 4311761]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3184758 Spooky 150g Horiz spinner (by BLRobotics27) 3184758]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4567470 Squeezy 150g Grab and Lift (NEW) (by SiegelRacing) 4567470]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3099273 Upchuck 150g Vertical spinner (by FalconFPV) 3099273]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2927358 Vlad Micro 150g Lift forks (by AdamDC) 2927358]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3695273 White Fang 150g Horiz spinner (by Insertbattlebotsjokehere) 3695273]<br />
<br />
===Larger Weight Classes===<br />
Here you will find bots in 1lb (453g) and higher weight classes.<br />
<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723564 1lb 4WD Wedge (by TeamLiftoff) 4723564]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2036647 1lb Vertical spinner (by kkbittle) 2036647]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3908901 3DAD 1lb Horiz spinner (by drcameron) 3908901]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3111090 Blockhead remix 1lb Paddle spinner (by shultiskevin) 3111090]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4885071 CheeseWej 1lb Plastic ant Wedge (by Teamd20) 4885071]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4232399 Deadlift 1.5kg bot (by Noursicus) 4232399]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4800332 Eureka 1lb Plastic ant Wedge (by Teamd20) 4800332]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3160354 Flapjack 1lb Drum spinner (by shultiskevin) 3160354]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3793747 Future Killer 1lb Vert drum (by altapowderdog) 3793747]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675230 Half-SMEEEEEEEEEEEE 1lb long split wedge (by TheN00b) 4675230]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4910548 LifeSteal 1lb Plastic Ant Horiz spinner (by Posey) 4910548]<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88678-3d-printed-verticle-disc-spinner-combat-robot Mega Looon V1 1lb Vertical spinner (by thesaxmachine)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2828234 MI 1lb spinner (by RattlerRobotics) 2828234]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3170974 Mr. Roomba Ring spinner (by Kylellrc) 3170974]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3731962 Munchkin 3lb Drum spinner (by Creative_Instigation) 3731962]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1401358 Mr. Twister 1lb (incl. Plastic ant option) Vertical Spinner (by AdamDC) 1401358]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2813722 Plastique 1lb Shell spinner (by AdamDC) 2813722]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3962507 Simple 1lb Wedge demobot (by mightygrom) 3962507]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3819420 Tiger Shark V5 1lb Horizontal spinner (by thesaxmachine) 3819420]<br />
*[https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/88673-antweight-horizontal-bar-spinner-tiger-shark-v6 Tiger Shark V6 1lb Horizontal spinner (by thesaxmachine)]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4741317 Vertex 3lb vert spinner (by Proxy303) 4741317]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4241833 Vertigo 3lb bot (by Insertbattlebotsjokehere) 4241833]<br />
*[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843171 WejFu 1lb Plastic Ant Wedge (by Teamd20) 4843171]</div>User