NameThatPart

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Revision as of 05:55, 10 June 2022 by Chklnk (talk | contribs) (→‎Parts for moving: Wheels, gears, belts, chains, direct drive)
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Knowing the name of things is part of the challenge of building things; it's difficult to do internet searches if you don't know the name of the thing you're looking for, even harder if you don't know it even exists. This page contains some things useful for building robots that you might not know the name of, so you can get a start.

Materials

Plastics

  • Polycarbonate: This material that is typically optically transparent which makes it ideal in situations where you need to see into your robot.
  • PLA: Polylactic acid is a thermoplastic often used in 3D printing. It is moderately strong but it's ease of use makes it a popular choice.
  • ABS: Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene is also a common plastic used in 3D printing. It is stronger than PLA but can be more difficult to work with.
  • Nylon: This plastic is often used in 3D printings and its flexibility allows it to make very durable parts but more preparation is needed to use it successfully.
  • Delrin / Acetal: This low friction high durability plastic can be used instead of aluminum in some cases. Its much lighter but not as strong.
  • HDPE / UHMW: These high strength plastics are often used as armor. They tend to deform and bend instead of cracking or completely failing.
  • EVA Foam - a lightweight foam useful for things like wheels that will take damage. Could also be used for internal padding. Available in sheets of various thickness or cylindrical "dowel" .
  • Acrylic sheet / PMMA / Perspex / Plexiglass - this material is sometimes used because it is easy to laser-cut into nice shapes. Available in many colours, looks very nice and often used for signage. Not generally recommended for robot combat as it shatters easily. Could be used for non-combat parts such as safety brackets, cradles, jigs or cosmetic parts. Might be useful for sportsman / plastic classes where it's not going to get hit by a high-speed weapon.

Metals

  • Aluminum[1]: Super light and very easy to cut and use, but very soft. It can be used to absorb impact damage, but if dented, it will not spring back and may cause trouble with parts behind it. It can't stop attacks from metal saws. It is good for making very lightweight structural material and frames.
    • 6061: The most common aluminum alloy used in robot combat.
    • 7075: Slightly stronger and more rigid than 6061 but more brittle and extremely difficult to weld.
  • Titanium: Malleable enough to be bent, but hard to cut through. Titanium[2] is used in all weight classes, from thin armor plate on 150g (US fairyweight) bots, to weapon arms, heavy plate and chassis material in BattleBots competitors. It's also a crowd pleaser: If you see a shower of bright white sparks when a bot is attacked, titanium is usually involved.
  • Steel:
    • Mild Steel: Low Carbon steel which is typically lower in cost and easier to work with.
    • Tool Steel: High Carbon alloys that can be very strong and resistant to deformation and abrasion.
      • AR / Hardox: Abrasion Resistant steel often used as armor in larger bots.
      • S7: Shock resistant alloy that is suitable for impact weapons.
      • 4041: Strong and easily hardened alloy. Often used as welded steel tubing in frames.

Composites

  • FR4 / G10: This material goes by several names including GRP (Glass reinforced polymer), FRP (fiber reinforced plastic), G-10[3], and Garolite. It's made of resin reinforced by glass fibers. G10 is available in sheets, rods, corner angles, etc.[4] According to ULS, this material can be laser cut with a CO2 laser.[5] FR4 is also flame retardant, and is a common material for circuit boards.[6][7]
    • G10 has very high strength compared to unreinforced plastics, and is resistant to abrasion and cracking. In combat robotics it can be used as lightweight armor[8] or structural members in insect weight classes. It's an insulator, and won't short out electronics even if opponents attack and shred it.
    • Safety: Use appropriate protective gear to avoid inhaling glass fibers when cutting or handling this material.
  • Aluminium / aluminum composite panel aka "Dibond" or "Alupanel"
    • thin sheets of Al with a plastic between.
    • Very flat, generally good characteristics?

Fasteners

List of common types and what they do

  • Nuts, bolts screws
    • Wood screws, and self tapping screws - create their own thread in softer materials, which gets weaker each time it's used.
    • Machine screws/ bolts - screw into a threaded hole, either in a nut, threaded insert, or material which has been tapped (had a thread cut)
    • Shoulder bolt - A bolt which has a "shoulder" - smooth machined section which can be used as a shaft.
    • Locking nut / Nyloc nut - a nut containing some plastic / rubber material which makes it self-tighten and resist e.g. vibrations.
    • Threaded inserts aka "Insert nuts" - an internally threaded part which can be pushed or screwed into a softer material to allow a machine screw / bolt to be attached strongly and repeatedly. Some types
    • Claw nut. Similar to threaded inserts, but intended to go into the back of a panel on a flexible material (wood, soft plastic e.g. HDPE) to allow a bolt to securely fasten.
  • Rivets and other one-time fasteners
    • Pop-rivets - a fastener which can connect thin(ish) materials with access from one side only. Difficult to remove (must be drilled out usually)
    • Rivnuts / rivet nuts - a combination of a rivet and a threaded insert, i.e. a rivet with a thread inside so a machine screw can be screwed in - very handy.

Other hardware

  • Magnets - Rare Earth or Electromagnets can be used to increase the apparent downforce in a bot giving it an advantage.
  • Threaded rod - just a rod which is threaded along the full length so you can put many nuts on in different positions to e.g. hold parallel parts.
  • Nut strips - a strip of (typically) metal with periodic threaded holes, perhaps at right-angles, to attach parts at right angles.

Parts for moving

  • Wheels (or hubs) hold tires and turn them. Some hubs come apart to make wheel replacement easier.
    • Tires are the part of a rolling bot that is in contact with the ground. Often a separate part that can be replaced. Good traction is important.
    • Mechanum wheels have rollers that allow a bot to move sideways.
  • Tracks, treads
  • Axles, shafts, keys
  • Bearings, pillow blocks
  • Motors
    • Gearmotors
    • Gearboxes, transmissions
  • Chains can transfer power from one shaft to another.
    • Chain drive allows two shafts to spin at equal speeds, or a fixed speed ratio.
    • Sprockets are toothed wheels that guide the links on chains.
  • Belts can also transfer power from one shaft to another.
    • Timing belts (toothed belts) are also meant for fixed speed ratios.
    • V belts offer strong power transmission with a chance of slippage in case of harsh impact.
    • Round and flat belts are more likely to slip if one shaft is stuck.
    • Pulleys go on the shafts and belts are fitted onto them.
  • Direct drive is when a motor is directly coupled to a wheel, weapon or other load.
    • Flexible shaft couplings are used to dampen high impact shocks from being fully transmitted back to the motor.

Parts for weapons

Electrical and electronic